Large Scale Central

🪵 Proven Wood Treatments

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Please edit as seen fit.

EDIT Aargh! I’ve found my cut and paste was less accurate. I’ve corrected Steve’s & Tim’s link.
Bill

Wood Treatments for Outdoor Garden Railroad Structures

This wiki gathers tested methods used by Large Scale Central (LSC) members to treat and protect wood exposed to outdoor weather, such as trestles, bridges, ties, and other structures. The treatments include oils, stains, preservatives, sealers, and glues that improve durability and prevent rot.

Here’s a rundown of actual wood‑treatment methods Large Scale Central contributors have used for outdoor garden railroad structures—attributed by author:

Overview

Outdoor wood structures face challenges like moisture, UV exposure, insects, and fungal decay. Choosing the right treatment extends their lifespan and maintains appearance. This article focuses on wood treatments, not species, and reflects real LSC user experience.

1. Oil-Based Treatments

Used Motor Oil and Diesel Mix

  • Method: Soak or brush wood with used motor oil or a blend of motor oil thinned with diesel fuel.

  • Performance: Proven longevity of 15–20+ years on ties and trestles.

  • Notes: This mimics creosote treatment but without hazardous chemicals.

  • Application Tips: Soak wood for multiple days; allow drying before assembly. Reapply brush coats every 2–3 years.

  • LSC Contributors:

    • David Marconi: 18 years of ties soaked in used motor oil with minimal deterioration. Source
    • Rick Marty: Brushed oil/diesel mix with 20-year success, recoating every few years. Source
    • Steve Featherkile: Similar soaking method, 20+ years durability. Source

Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) with Stain

  • Method: Mix boiled linseed oil with oil-based wood stain (e.g., Minwax ebony).

  • Performance: Cedar ties treated this way lasted 9 years with no decay in shaded, wet conditions.

  • Application Tips: Apply liberally, allow full drying between coats.

  • LSC Contributor:

    • Jon Radder: Mix of Minwax ebony stain and BLO keeps cedar ties protected under drip zones. Source

2. Stains and Waterproofing Products

Minwax Oil-Based Stain and Clear Finishes

  • Oil-based Minwax stains and clear finishes offer deep penetration and UV protection.

  • Longest-lasting treatment reported was 16 years before needing replacement.

  • Newer water-based Minwax products generally show shorter lifespan.

  • LSC Contributor:

    • Al Pomeroy: Clear oil-based Minwax gave 16 years outdoor service. Source

Thompson’s WaterSeal

  • Cedar pieces dipped in Thompson’s WaterSeal stain improve water repellency.

  • Often used as a dip before assembly.

  • LSC Contributor:

    • Bob Hyman: Uses WaterSeal to protect and tint cedar parts. Source

3. Copper-Based Preservatives

Copper Sulfate (“Blue Vitriol”)

  • Effective fungicide and insecticide.

  • Difficult to find but highly recommended for preserving wood.

  • LSC Contributor:

    • Korm Kormsen: Calls copper sulfate “the best stuff” for wood conservation. Source

4. Natural Drying Approach

  • Some users avoid coatings entirely, allowing wood to breathe and dry naturally.

  • Coatings can trap moisture and accelerate decay if water penetrates.

  • LSC Contributor:

    • Tom Huisenga: Advocates no coatings, especially on cedar. Source

5. Adhesives and Sealing Joints

Titebond III Waterproof Wood Glue

  • Recommended for outdoor joints due to water resistance.

  • Can also be brushed on exposed edges as a sealer.

  • Use mechanical fasteners (pins, brads) while curing for best strength.

  • LSC Contributors:

    • Todd Haskins: Endorses Titebond III for outdoor woodworking. Source
    • Dave Taylor: Applies Titebond III on plywood edges before roofing. Source
    • Greg Elmassian: Notes glue compatibility with stains is important. Source

6. Appearance Treatments (Fake Creosote Look)

  • Gloss Black Spray Paint: Creates creosote-like appearance and protects wood.

  • Steel Wool + Vinegar Solution: Chemical aging effect; darkens tannin-rich woods.

  • India Ink Wash: Used for grain enhancement and aging effects.

  • LSC Contributors:

    • Rooster: Uses black spray paint for creosote effect. Source
    • Tim Lee: Vinegar and steel wool solution for darkening. Source

Summary Table

Treatment Contributors Notes & Longevity Source Link
Used Motor Oil Soak David Marconi, Rick Marty 15–20+ years; periodic reapplication Link
Minwax Stain + BLO Jon Radder 9+ years, good for shaded cedar Link
Oil-Based Minwax Clear Al Pomeroy 16 years before needing replacement Link
Copper Sulfate Korm Kormsen Best preservative, hard to source Link
No Coating (Natural Dry) Tom Huisenga Avoids moisture trapping Link
Titebond III Glue Todd Haskins, Dave Taylor Waterproof, good for joints and edge sealing Link
Creosote Look (paint/vinegar) Rooster, Tim Lee Fake creosote effect, simple to maintain Link

:white_check_mark: Recommendations

  • Best long-term: use used motor oil soak or oil+diesel brush treatment for bridge ties, trestle components, etc. Proven multi‑decade performance.
  • Alternative: oil-based Minwax clear or Minwax stain + boiled linseed oil for visual appeal and decent lifespan.
  • For preservative-rich treatment: if you can source it, copper sulfate soak offers anti-fungal and insect resistance.
  • Skip synthetic coatings that seal the surface and trap moisture—opt for treatments that penetrate or let the wood remain breathable.
  • Use waterproof glue (like Titebond III) when assembling for outdoor use.