Greg, the graphics on the car data in the model you show state "6FT 1IN". There are no spaces between the number and the ... moreGreg, the graphics on the car data in the model you show state "6FT 1IN". There are no spaces between the number and the "FT" or "IN" so at the resolution of that photo, it's easy to read it as 6' 11". Here's a photo of the same car, but with a later paint scheme where the sign painter (thankfully) learned how to add spaces between numbers and units which more clearly shows it as 6' 1":
As for the scale of the models, I don't know what to tell you. I built the tender on #14 in 1:24 from published plans of an EBT loco. The loco itself is freelanced, but scales comparably to other narrow gauge locos in 1:24 and 1:22.5. Delton's stuff was pretty accurate in 1:24. There's nothing in that photo which would be "out of scale." Here's food for thought:
All three of these locos are accurately scaled in 1:20.3. Now, imagine the same box car put behind each loco. It's going to be dwarfed by the loco on the left, on par in size with the loco in the middle, but tower over the loco on t... less
Dan Gilchrist said:
Every day we get closer to being able to print high quality models at home using 3d print technologies. ... moreDan Gilchrist said:
Every day we get closer to being able to print high quality models at home using 3d print technologies. The long game is not injection molds, it's the 3d design files. Those can be licensed. They can also be scaled. The future threat to Charles Ro may be Atlas or Athearn. Personally, I'd like to see manufacturers like Trinity, Greenbrier, GE, and EMD take the original designs and rework them for printing. Question is Who will make the boxes?
Who makes the boxes now for EMD/Cat, GE, and such? All the need to do is scale down the boxes for the models. less
I have one AML boxcar, and it is nicer then any of the Aristo boxcars I have. I would like to see that line continue, even if it... moreI have one AML boxcar, and it is nicer then any of the Aristo boxcars I have. I would like to see that line continue, even if its only in short runs.
looks like the Norfolk Southern lettering is painted on.
Most of the lettering on our trains is applied by paint pads and it is ... morelooks like the Norfolk Southern lettering is painted on.
Most of the lettering on our trains is applied by paint pads and it is hard to get off. Even if it comes off, you may end up with ghostly versions of the letters, as the surface won't be quite the same - which may or may not be a good thing, for your cars.
Guessing put it on, let it sit for a bit, use a tooth pick or similar to see if its coming up, wash rinse repeat as needed?
Basically yes. If you assume you will have to respray then it is much easier. 600 grit applied wet will get the paint off, as will paint stripper (though test it first to see if it demolishes the plastic.) Auto brake fluid and the stuff they sell for smaller gauge paint removal will also work.
This question comes up regularly, so I'd recommend you do a site-specific Google search: try "site:largescalecentral.com removing paint letters" (114 results) or "site:mylargescale.com removing paint letters". less
I like that idea Greg. Unfortunately all my boxes are already at the stage seen. I do have a rubber o-ring between the connector... moreI like that idea Greg. Unfortunately all my boxes are already at the stage seen. I do have a rubber o-ring between the connector and box and added the silicone for extra safety. The conduit isn't glued to the connectors yet. It was all just dry fitted for now but I will be using the glue for the conduit. I was on the fence between fully burying the box and not but now I am convinced to have the cover flush with the surface. I'll probably cover the cover with a building or a rock. I tried zooming in on the picture but couldn't quite see, did you just drill a hole in the side of the sweep and fill it with silicone? I will be off to Home Depot after work today. less
David Maynard said:
if anyone had warrants out on them they are still safe.
Pheew, thank goodness! And since, for some reason, I... moreDavid Maynard said:
if anyone had warrants out on them they are still safe.
Pheew, thank goodness! And since, for some reason, I only appear in 2 photographs, and in one of them I almost lost in the background........ I think I said too much.
It's time for retirement, Ray!
I enjoy looking for what few old mining structures remain up in Northern Idaho, But Cal, Nev and ... moreIt's time for retirement, Ray!
I enjoy looking for what few old mining structures remain up in Northern Idaho, But Cal, Nev and Az have much more to look for.
I wish I were younger, I'd take look around your desert country.
So I'll see it thru your eyes!
Thanks for the effort to edit and post all of it on your web site.
Nope ... Santa Fe .. Great deal ... looks too nice to rename and ( a fallen flag {Ray } ... I want hi... moreNope ... Santa Fe .. Great deal ... looks too nice to rename and ( a fallen flag {Ray } ... I want his memory to last..)
Started in on the project yesterday. I used a Dremel with a pointed grinding tip to make the hole for the ... moreUpdate:
Started in on the project yesterday. I used a Dremel with a pointed grinding tip to make the hole for the four-pin female socket. I then actually looked at the power supplies and saw that the four pins are two pairs of positive / negative poles. Naturally, I soldered it wrong, anyway. By the time I screwed that up, it was time to secure and stow the project, as lo! Kid-zilla began to stir.
I did tin the bitter ends of the wires and crimp on some spade connectors. Limited experience to date has shown my soldering skills (and to be fair, my soldering iron) are wanting. The crimper I bought for that loco restoration project has been a Godsend, and I have found spade connectors allow for easier error corrections than soldered joints.
Interestingly, my father-in-law, a real tinkerer, has taken on this problem separately as a way to power the various contraptions he sends down the rails (They show once, disappear, and, occasionally return well mod... less
Gregory Hile said:
There was talk awhile back about a group taking the Coast Starlight up, Anyone still up for that?
Brave folks... moreGregory Hile said:
There was talk awhile back about a group taking the Coast Starlight up, Anyone still up for that?
Brave folks taking a train...
Nice idea though - getting a group together.
Ken Brunt said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Rats, I can't make it, again.
And what the hell is your excuse this time?...... moreKen Brunt said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Rats, I can't make it, again.
And what the hell is your excuse this time?.................
I THOUGHT he gave his reason...
Even with the white metal issues, these are nice cars. When I saw RLD had a great $65 price on them at ECLSTS I picked up anothe... moreEven with the white metal issues, these are nice cars. When I saw RLD had a great $65 price on them at ECLSTS I picked up another one. It came out of the box intact, but only took minimal handling to snap off one step. I'll try and get by with using one taken off car #1, but there is a small issue with that: Color. I didn't realize that Bachman made the Data Only in two different colors. New one; Oxide Brown on left and older one; Oxide Red on the right...
Now I need to find a "browner" primer to pain the one step. Supposedly Bachman has the replacement rucks in stock so I am going to ask for two pairs to replace these that the experts say will fail eventually. less
I have a USA 5344 Hudson I mite sell. I have 3 USA Hudson's and love them !Its set up for track or battery and has a Revol... moreI have a USA 5344 Hudson I mite sell. I have 3 USA Hudson's and love them !Its set up for track or battery and has a Revolution in it !
I read this: "The Digitax prompts aren't as good as menus, but it does give me the choice of 2 or 4 digit addressing."
as a comp... moreI read this: "The Digitax prompts aren't as good as menus, but it does give me the choice of 2 or 4 digit addressing."
as a comparison to the NCE we were talking about....
Otherwise, I was not sure of why you brought up this feature standard on most better DCC systems.
Anyway, yes, you need to set that bit in CV29 in order to change from short addressing to long addressing.
When you used JMRI to set a long address, the JMRI system changed that bit in CV29 for you....
If you read the spec, you will see that the decoder can have 3 different addresses in it, and you can select which of the 3 to use... there is a reason there is a "switch" between long and short addresses... to allow you to have 2 different addresses on your loco... for several reasons..
