Large Scale Central

🧨 Renovate or Detonate? (a maintenance question)

Earlier this season there was a light patch of plastic corrugated roofing showing through that I patched with some paint, but last month we had a bit of a hail storm :cloud_with_lightning_and_rain:.

I did build this before joining LSC and would have built these differently now. Here are some limitations:

  • I don’t have any access to more if this corrugated plastic.
  • The glue in many places remains stronger than the wood.
  • I have some significant gaps on the decking

I’ve had some shrinkage on all my shingles except the ones I used on my water tower using a revolutionary yet messy silicon technique.

I slipped some slivers of shingles into my diamond shingled roofing with some success. (It looks ok at 3 meters)

The bungalow is doing ok on the steep section but quite disrupted on the flatter section. There is quite an undulation with the separation of the shingles which leads me to postulate the base layer has been disrupted. I had used tightbond 3 to waterproof it.

The water tower is ok… so far.

Any suggestions?

Would lindseed oil be worthwhile trying on the Decking vs relaying the deck?

Not a big fan of Linseed Oil because it is organic and can cause problems.
I use a mixture of motor oil and diesel on all exposed bare wood and have been doing so for 30 years with stellar results.

But YMMV

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Rick,

Any thoughts on the shingles? I put one down with liquid nails. The diamond was with aquadhere.

What will motor oil do to titebond III, silicon, e6000 & paint?

I was thinking Linseed oil as it polymerises. I’ll look into motor oil.

Those are great looking buildings. I would patch them and keep patching them until they crumble away.

If you try the motor oil be sure to use, used oil. For some reason used works better than new. I don’t know how it will affect your glue but I don’t think it would. Try a test spot and get back to us.

I second Todd’s thoughts: They are amazing and I’d hate to them them relegated to the trash bin. There is a masterthread in here somewhere on treating wood for outdoor use… lets see…
ah! here it is!

I’d suggest reading this. Lots of great ideas complied all all sourced to the original thread. Thanks to @Hines for putting it together for us!

Ha! Thanks John.

I learned a lot from that wiki thread.

The big question is to replace with shingles with shingles, or move on to better roofing. So far the real aluminium corrugated roof, has had no issues whatsoever so ever. Of course my local hobbyist doesn’t carry it anymore & I’ve had little success with Fiskars crimpers.

There’s probably an intermediate answer, though it won’t last forever, and won’t look prototypical, but…

How about making needed shingle repairs, and then go over the whole thing with a few coats of marine varnish or epoxy-based clear coat?

FWIW, here’s a pretty flipped out way to make shingles from foam:

One would have to figure out the coating thing for outdoors, and there’s a discussion on that at the same page.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/foamworkshop

This guy’s offerings are really cool, and some of the videos are almost mesmerizing.

Here’s a US-based company that makes cutting templates for the Proxxon wire cutter.

Unless I missed it …My big question is what type of wood are the shingles? Assuming they are wood because if you soak plastic in motor oil then they never will adhere.

As for the standing seam roof there are other options with the 10’ rule.

I did a simulated standing seam roof with sheet aluminum for my Wall Station…

I had some wood that was grooved…

Forced the aluminum sheet into the grooves with some solid copper wire…

Which created this…

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UPDATE:
Some warpage and wood splits I couldn’t overcome, but it’s looking serviceable again.

Now on to the shingled roof… stay tuned.

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