AM-Critter....Kid-zilla goes freelance

[Eric_Mueller]

OK,

So someone here got Kid-zilla all excited about diesel engines and AMTRAK. That someone might have encouraged this with some suspiciously AMTRAK-ish stickers. Because of that someone, he came up with the idea of a homebuilt diesel last year using one of our B’mann 10-wheeler chassis. I bought some balsa blocks from him to craft, but, after evaluating his plans, I feared it would be a project more likely to frustrate than to teach. Fortunately, fate intervened, and we commenced the Triple O – Bachmann 10-Wheeler Salvage Campaign. This was a better use of the parts, and we both gained some skills and confidence. Over the summer, he renovated another 10-wheeler (Kid-zilla vs. Bachmann…A Story of Dad Learning to Let Go), convincing me that his money would go to a successful project in which he can take pride. With that, I let Kid-zilla send his pennies (birthday and Christmas money) to USA Trains for a motorblock and sideframes. He is cleared hot to proceed!

The balsa is still on hand. The stickers are at the ready. Bits lie waiting. The parts are en route. Let’s see what he can do!

Updates as progress merits!

On Behalf of Kid-zilla,

Eric

[Cliff_Jennings]

Eric, would that someone’s name rhyme with Shmooster Shmussel?

[Rooster]

Cliff,
Never heard of the guy myself .

[Pete_Lassen]

Looking forward to this build!

[Rooster]

@Eric_Mueller

USA Trains for a motorblock and sideframes. He is cleared hot to proceed!

Perhaps you could fill us in on whether a 2 or 3 axle motor block so the crew here can possibly start throwing some inspiration his way.

[Eric_Mueller]

2 axle block with NW2 sideframes. He started school today, so the bit box has yet to be raided.

Eric

[Rooster]

Eric,

It’s time the boy has looked at some real porn because the Steamgirl magazines he found under your bed ain’t cutting it anymore!

http://www.trainweb.org/amtrakpix/locoshots/locoshots.html

[Rooster]

When he is 12 he will be ready for this.
https://railroad.net/field-guide-to-amtrak-catenary-t26913-15.html

Then he has about another 8 or 10yrs until “Corona rings” mean something totally different. However another 20 or 25yrs later he will remember what the PRR corona rings were and Grandpa Eric will be able to run his steam trains under the Amtrak catenary with the grand kids.

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

Last week, Kid-zilla practiced for this project by swapping out the motor of 1980-s vintage LGB m2075 (Big Thomas in Triple O service).

There has been also serious but undocumented tinkering on Diesel Dan, his PIKO Clean Machine.

Later, a bit-box from John (@John_Bouck ) arrived with enough parts to to combine with bits on hand to refurbish yet another B’mann 10-wheeler…

…but Kid-zilla held firm to his purpose. He has declared that, the number being 10, this 10-wheeler will come together in Year 10 of the Reign of Kid-zilla. Staying true to his purpose, he waited, until, lo!

…the motorblock and sideframes arrived from USA Trains!

We dug out the balsa blocks, he selected a cab, and he has been studying critter pictures. I told him no cutting until after he shows me his plans. He also noted there is no obvious way to mount either the sideframes or the to-be-made cab and engine compartment to the motorblock. Let’s see what he comes up with!

My role will be to maintain safety, to ensure progress, and to prevent catastrophic failure. Otherwise, the ball is in his court!

Eric

[Rooster]

@Eric_Mueller

He also noted there is no obvious way to mount either the sideframes or the to-be-made cab and engine compartment to the motorblock.

Eric

I wondered about that and I am 99.999% sure I can help out with that only “if you wish”.
I would honestly prefer to offer some basic things I (should) have in stock so he doesn’t get frustrated with a simple resolution to his query. Email me if interested that way I can remember and stay on top of it.

[Eric_Mueller]

Rooster,

Thanks. That would be consistent with avoiding “catastrophic failure.” I’ll drop an email later.

Eric

[Rooster]

Just thinking out loud

[Dave_Meashey (David Meashey)]

Eric;

Freelance is fun. The G&NB Fast mail below is a ducted fan drive married to a one-liter seltzer bottle with ball bearing wheels to glide on. (Kinda’ like a combination of Casey Jones meets Flash Gordon!) I still have never had enough straight track to find out how fast it will go.

Best, David Meashey

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

@Rooster , the bits arrived! Your thinking out loud was quite prescient! I will let Kid-zilla ideate a bit on his way forward, then post his plans. There will be some challenges, as this will be a true kitbash and not a “resto-mod.” I think he’s up to it…if he doesn’t get distracted by @John_Bouck 's 10-wheeler parts, first!

Eric

[Eric_Mueller]

And so it begins…

Kid-zilla captured the 1:24 gang pushing this unlikely derelict into the shops at Pu’uoma’o…

With the old ALCO safely in the engine shed, he and I had a good chat…track or battery powered (He could ask for a battery for Christmas)? How does power get from the tracks / battery to the motor? Would there be an external fuel tank? What about horns, bells, and exhaust stacks? How did he want to close off the back?

He was a bit dubious about my contention that real railroad often mixed and matched parts to get what they needed to fit an economic need. We had discussed this and looked at numerous pictures of “critters” when he decided to undertake this project. Luckily, and older congregant at church worked the SOUTHERN at a time when senior engineers still had hours under steam. He confirmed what the pictures showed…if a railroad needed it, and if it had the parts, it built it!

Next weekend, we will tinker with getting this shell to run on its NW-2 motor block. That’ll involve some temporary jumpers, I am sure. The goal will be to fully understand how the power needs to flow, so he can start thinking about lights, “diesel exhaust” (smoke fluid), and, if he wants it, a critter controller. I have set a soft goal to have the rough outlines of the AM-critter up and working by Halloween, which should help him come up with a parts list just in time to guide relatives’ looking to get him a Christmas gift or two!

For now, AM-critter awaits Kid-zilla’s creative touch, and Kid-zilla is already dreaming about a string up-cycled B’mann coaches redone in silver…

On behalf of Kid-zilla,
Eric

[Rooster]

Edited:

Shut up Rooster and let the boy work.

A little inspiration and only throwing in some inspiration for the boy to think outside of the box. The 2026 Freedom Train CERTAINLY could be in Amtrak livery and shortened.

https://www.freedomtrain.org/freedom-train-consist-1-pa1-locomotive-1776.htm

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

OK, soccer, school, Dad’s Taxi, work, etc. have really put a crimp on all our projects.

Kid-zilla did undertake the project to get power to the motor block, opening it up, and discovering bus bars that ran from the pickup points and buses that ran from the motor tab. He assumed (as did I) that jumping across these buses would bring the motor to life:

Nope. His text aside, this did not make it run. Here’s a picture without the text box:

I am not sure what we are missing here. We’ll hit it again this weekend.

Eric

[Eric_Mueller]

@Rooster

A little inspiration and only throwing in some inspiration for the boy to think outside of the box. The 2026 Freedom Train CERTAINLY could be in Amtrak livery and shortened.

Ooops…I missed this post. I’ll show it to him tomorrow. I want him to get the shell up and running first, as I think seeing it in motion will kickstart the program a bit.

Oh, and, yes, the eagle is reminiscent of the eagle worn on WWII era German uniforms. I can see why management was dubious about it!

Eric

[David_Marconi_FOGCH (David Marconi CHHNNG)]

@Eric_Mueller

How did he want to close off the back?

To me KZ, This is the perfect time to upgrade your modeling skills. We have all gone through learning/honing processes to get where we are so do not get discouraged while you go.
1, Stand the shell up on it’s end and trace around. Remember that the line will add about 1/16th of an inch to the piece and cut outside the line but close to it. This can be an 1/8th inch thick and can be foam core PVC sheet for your first try. Even this will hold for the final use and will hold up for years.
2. Tape this piece to the back of the shell, leave the tape 1/2" above the bottom of the shell, and 1/2" below top dead center of the roof line.
3. Carefully file the blank to flush on both bottom corners of the shell. Do this slowly and check often by rubbing your finger across the joint till you feel no line of joint there.
4. Do the same at the top following the curve of the roof, for now you just need to get the top inch or so smooth. Do not over do the filling, and if you err, start with a new piece.
5. Before you remove the tape mark a line from front to back across the joint of the filed areas. These are pencil or very fine marker. Important, use one stroke to make each line . the line that crosses the joint from shell to blank are witness marks. the main idea is you will use these as you test along the way.
6. turn the shell onto its roof with the rear blank over the edge of your work surface hanging in air. Place a flat ruler or stiff piece of plastic across the shell gently touching the blank and mark the blank on both sides of the shell. For this I use a knife to mark just the blank for a most accurate point .
7 Remove the blank from the shell ans with a knife and straight edge connect the two marks you just made from side to side. Repeat this with light multiple strokes until you cut through the blank. This will now be your modeling line when cut through and smooth.
8. using your ruler, from corner to corner of the bottom edge you just made find center of the edge and again with pencil make one mark on the blank.
9. Hold a square against the bottom edge of the blank at your new mark and use a knife gently to get a mark of center from bottom to top of your blank. This will need to be erased with sanding in a bit so the lighter the mark the easier to erase. You can do this as your skills have already shown us, so trust yourself it will seem a breeze if you trust.
10. Now measure a door on another one of your diesels normally 3 scale feet. Use you measurement to get your door centered on your blank. half of the size on each of your center line. make these marks with a knife. One set at the bottom edge, and one set 3" up from bottom. These will be used to mark your height lines.
11. Measure the height of your other diesel door. Using a square,measure the height
you just learned up from the bottom of your blank on each side of your center line, put a mark at 6 scale inches up from the bottom, and then put your top mark at the measurement you found for you door height. Use a knife and square and scribe a line from your bottom mark to your top mark on each side of center,. I scribe using the back edge of my knife edge.
12. Now use a straight edge and connect both 6" high marks and both door height marks together making a rectangle on your blank.
13. Take a break and pat yourself on the back, get a few atta boys from the clan and relax with your favorite beverage as you and Dad talk railroad.
14. Use 4 to 6 inch square stock plastic for a frame. Start with one piece along the bottom edge of your blank between your two door side marks.Glue this on flush with your bottom edge.
15.Next cut two pieces to fit from your bottom blank edge to your top height marks. measure one side and make both side strips the same length.Use your square on the outside edge of each strip to keep the pieces along the mark you etched and glue them to your blank.
16. Now you need to cap your work. measure and cut your top strip to sit on the top of your two side uprights. You now have your door opening area. Not quite done though, we will now add to your skill set.
17. I do this with a drill bit that is fairly large to get rid of a good bit of the unneeded door area. Drill three holes through the blank inside of the door frame you just made.
18. Use your knife and connect the holes you drilled cutting through the plastic to get rid of the plug. Now start filing from each side of the open area out to the edges of your door frame. Yes you could use a knife to go a bit faster by paring away the plastic to get to the frame, but for this one the filing is safer against the chance of cutting into your frame and having to start over.
19. As you get close to the frame inside edge file from the backside of the plug to get this seam flush just like filing the outside edges of your blank flush with your shell.
20. The above all finished take a piece of plastic, same as the blank and cut a piece that fits over your door frame… Turn your blank over and placing the new piece flush with the bottom edge of the blank glue it in place to cover the door opening you just made A square helps keep it straight as you glue it in place.
21. Using your witness marks and bottom corners glue your blank onto the rear of the shell. Might want to use a flat piece of steel to hold to the bottom of the shell and set the blank on that to keep the bottom edge true as you glue. Set aside for a few days for the glue to set. After the glue has set file the edges of the blank flush with the shell all the way around the body. And erase the little bit of center line just above the door frame you made.
You can add detail to this but your basic end is ready for the Palm of painting.
Great job I knew you had it in you

[Rooster]

I’m not sure why your jumper didn’t work. The inner pins are for the track pickups and the outer pins are for the motor block.

As for closing off the back. Thoroughly go through the box that was sent. READ the notes (basic guidance) written on the PVC board and stryene enclosed. Also look closely at the 2 heavyweight car ends that were enclosed.