his form of Devoning … 
Wow Cliff!
I thought living in Oz, a day ahead of the rest of the world was pretty cool, but you’re living in the future!
I feel like I’m modeling in Ditto Mimiograph era.
Did you cut your bents, caps and footings with the laser as well?
Haha!!
No, Bill, nothing that complicated. The jigs could be done many ways, but I’m lazy.
All the pieces were cut on the little mini table saw.
You do know when you cut your self on that mini saw …. You will need full size bandages 
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Bill, if I’m understanding your arrows, those are the pegs holding the two layers of jig together.
Korm, I’m glad to learn this before the end of season 1.
If we had to wait for season 2 of The Trestle…
that would have been quite a cliff-hanger!
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Can’t argue with you, Korm… 
In my defense, and at the risk of sounding defensive ( ), since the plywood is only 1/8th thick, I stayed with my usual method of pegs (vs. nails).
The pegs are bits of bamboo food skewers, tapped into slightly undersized holes which are lasered along with everything else. That ensures proper registration, and a firm grip without glue in case I needed to alter anything. But I glued it anyway, couldn’t help it.
PS: I’m sure Korm’s jig, and those made by Sean, and others, are just as effective.
I’m in Carson now, all checked in, after having my traditional prime rib kickoff dinner, just $15 hear at the casino. I feel like the python who’s struggling to get back to the forest after eating his monthly pig…
This evening I’m meeting with a few Sutro Tunnel folks to discuss some projects, which may shape my coming winter, not sure.
I’m still hoping that this will be a single-season effort, Bill! We’ll see…
What sort of cost was involved in a laser set up and what else can you do with yours?
I had a long thread on that Bill, but since it was in 2017, maybe it was on the MLS site, not sure… regardless, I can’t find it. But, it started like this:
and sort of ended like this:
Except there was gobs to do for ducting, electrical, and general learning. Back in the day, it was $2k, shipping included. 60 watt. Here’s the equivalent, from what I can tell:
This doesn’t come with a vent system, but those aren’t expensive. Can be a pain to install though.
They claim higher material thicknesses, by I don’t go over 1/4" plywood or acrylic. Those are the main materials. Rubber and styrene are ok, but messy. You cannot cut PVC without producing chlorine gas, so that’s out. There are various lists you can look up.
There are smaller models, and bigger ones, in both wattage and cutting bed. Mine cuts 27"x19", and for larger pieces I’ve spliced parts together. You need one with the motorized “Z” adjustment, so that life doesn’t suck.
Zat good for a first dump? It would be fun to see you jump in, haha!
I hope you weren’t standing near that box when you opened it, Cliff. At 16.4 ft (5000mm) x 9.8 ft (3000mm), that thing had to explode when you took the top off the box 
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Thanks Dan… 
I reverted to units i understand…
to be honest, i can’t agree with the fineprint. 
Found them!
and
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That’s great Bob, thanks!!
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You don’t do long threads so I don’t believe that for a minute!
Cliff,
Having read the thread your easy installation of the exhaust fume extractor, how long did it take to get up to speed on getting something you were satisfied with? In other words what is the learning curve like?
Also, can one do partial and full thickness cuts with the laser in one go? For example can one etch out a window and window sill at the same time.
Hi Bill,
The learning and planning took a bit, but the curve part is pretty flat and straight: you need a route for a 6" flex tube to get from the laser to a blower which is outdoors.
My challenge was getting that route through the basement wall, and I chose to do it through the window glazing. But, depending on where you’d put the lazer and blower, it’ll be different.
Yes and no. You can set the speed and power for the pattern, run it, and run it again. I’d do this for, say, 3/8 acrylic, with the 60 watt lazer. Thicker than that, the focal length of the laser beam comes in to play, and you really need the more powerful beam (80-100 watt).
Not quite sure what you mean… You can etch a material, using a lower power setting, and cut it, using a higher power setting. These are determined by colors of the linework fed to the laser software. For example, green can be set to a cutting power, and slow cutting speed; red can be low power, fast speed. All are processed in the same run.
You can chose which operation (that is, color, being interpreted as speed and power level) happens in order. For me, sometimes using plywood that is warped, I always run engraving before cutting. Because the cutting will often result in certain pieces, once freed, plopping down to the bed, while the bowed sheet remains proud of the bed. TMI?
The laser software also has the ability to engrave images. I’ve not done this, but you basically give it an image file. It interprets the B/W version of that into laser power levels, and engraves the image thereby.