Large Scale Central

WSRR 2020 Mik's Build Challenge Leroy's

The MIK - Annual Build Challenge
#81

Ok, moving on. Here is an idea I had for the roof. It’s supposed to mimic some type of tile or slate roof (Leroy likes rock!). May be too much relief between tiles, maybe. What ya think?

Do the “tiles” need to sit closer together, less distance from one row to the next? Maybe put the front of each tile ever so slightly behind the V of the one below or maybe even just beyond the v. Yeah, I think that is what is bothering me, the top tile should be down below the apex of the V, otherwise water will run between the joints of the two tiles below. What else?

#82

Yes and yes. Smaller gap rows closer. But those are dang cool. You need to see if you can make corrugated tin.

#83

The bottom row should cover the beam ends. The Vs indent should be a hair below… in my infallible mind. Oh closer too.

#84

On a real roof, the first row of shingles goes on upside down with the solid straight edge overhanging the roof line about an inch. (Under that is an aluminum drip edging to help protect the fascia board on the ends of the rafters.)

The starting row is laid directly on top of that and off set so the seam of the first row is under the middle of a shingle on that starting row.

The second row is then off set so the middle tab on the shingle is directly over the seam on that first row, so no seams are exposed to the weather.

The tab on the second row should be covering the small space between the tabs or right at the top of that space.

That’s why when you see a new shingled roof going on it goes up the roof at a 45 degree angle.

And that probably all sounds about as clear as mud.

#85

I’m pleased to see the acceptance of 3d printing as a tool for a model contest. In some circles, the use of machines (Especially computer controlled) is considered “cheating”. Here, I only see words of encouragement. Big ups for the members of LSC!

Couple questions for you Dan

What are the dimensions of the studs? Are they scale?

Solid infill? If not, what shell thickness and infill percentage?

#86

Devon Sinsley said:

Yes and yes. Smaller gap rows closer. But those are dang cool. You need to see if you can make corrugated tin.

I’ve tried corrugated tin and failed miserably. The cross section needs to be so thin that the printer doesn’t have enough surface area to bond each successive layer. It would probably work, but the tin would be quite thick and as the thickness increases so do the height of the corrugations.

#87

John Caughey said:

The bottom row should cover the beam ends. The Vs indent should be a hair below… in my infallible mind. Oh closer too.

Thanks, John you are correct. I just stuck that piece up there as a reference. My plan is to do what Ken discusses below and have a starter course below the first course.

#88

Dan:

Cool roofing! One thing I’d suggest is to add some randomness to it so it isn’t quite so machine-made-looking. Just a bit. Oh and maybe a cracked tile every once in a while…

#89

Ken Brunt said:

On a real roof, the first row of shingles goes on upside down with the solid straight edge overhanging the roof line about an inch. (Under that is an aluminum drip edging to help protect the fascia board on the ends of the rafters.)

The starting row is laid directly on top of that and off set so the seam of the first row is under the middle of a shingle on that starting row.

The second row is then off set so the middle tab on the shingle is directly over the seam on that first row, so no seams are exposed to the weather.

The tab on the second row should be covering the small space between the tabs or right at the top of that space.

That’s why when you see a new shingled roof going on it goes up the roof at a 45 degree angle.

And that probably all sounds about as clear as mud.

Ken, thanks, that is exactly the method for asphalt shingles. And although there have to be similarities, I am trying to mimic a slate or tile roof that has been laid as individual pieces but in my case printed as a single unit for about Hal’s the length of the roof. I do need to bring the tiles down below the v as suggested. I’ll redo it tonight and repost it.

#90

Dan Hilyer said:

Ken Brunt said:

On a real roof, the first row of shingles goes on upside down with the solid straight edge overhanging the roof line about an inch. (Under that is an aluminum drip edging to help protect the fascia board on the ends of the rafters.)

The starting row is laid directly on top of that and off set so the seam of the first row is under the middle of a shingle on that starting row.

The second row is then off set so the middle tab on the shingle is directly over the seam on that first row, so no seams are exposed to the weather.

The tab on the second row should be covering the small space between the tabs or right at the top of that space.

That’s why when you see a new shingled roof going on it goes up the roof at a 45 degree angle.

And that probably all sounds about as clear as mud.

Ken, thanks, that is exactly the method for asphalt shingles. And although there have to be similarities, I am trying to mimic a slate or tile roof that has been laid as individual pieces but in my case printed as a single unit for about Hal’s the length of the roof. I do need to bring the tiles down below the v as suggested. I’ll redo it tonight and repost it.

What I would do first is lay a thin strip of styrene down first as the starter row then lay your shingle strips on top of that. Just to give yourself a clean straight edge to start with.

#91

Dan Gilchrist said:

I’m pleased to see the acceptance of 3d printing as a tool for a model contest. In some circles, the use of machines (Especially computer controlled) is considered “cheating”. Here, I only see words of encouragement. Big ups for the members of LSC!

Couple questions for you Dan

What are the dimensions of the studs? Are they scale?

Solid infill? If not, what shell thickness and infill percentage?

Dan, the studs are not to scale, they are 5x5mm, more or less a true 4x4 which is plausible. They would not have much structural strength if they were to scale at 1.87x4.375mm. Most other dimensions are close to scale. The walls are printed with 3 solid layers top and bottom, 3 perimeters and 20% gyroid infill with a layer height of 0.3mm. I’m still not convinced this is an efficient way to build models this big but we’ll see in the end.

#92

Dan Hilyer said:

John Caughey said:

The bottom row should cover the beam ends. The Vs indent should be a hair below… in my infallible mind. Oh closer too.

Thanks, John you are correct. I just stuck that piece up there as a reference. My plan is to do what Ken discusses below and have a starter course below the first course.

Careful, your man card is in jeopardy if you insist on prototype intent with kinda thick pieces … just sayin’ buddy.

#93

So, instead of them being slate tiles, they could be terracotta tiles, or the newer concrete tiles. They are thicker than slate.

Edit cause Microsopht cannot spell two much better den me.

#94

John Caughey said:

Dan Hilyer said:

John Caughey said:

The bottom row should cover the beam ends. The Vs indent should be a hair below… in my infallible mind. Oh closer too.

Thanks, John you are correct. I just stuck that piece up there as a reference. My plan is to do what Ken discusses below and have a starter course below the first course.

Careful, your man card is in jeopardy if you insist on prototype intent with kinda thick pieces … just sayin’ buddy.

Whoa, thanks for pointing that out John. Only real friends warn us before we go to far and lose our man card (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#95

I never ever lose my man card. . .My wife keeps it for me. . .O have to ask her for it when I want to pull it out.

#96

Devon Sinsley said:

I never ever lose my man card. . .My wife keeps it for me. . .O have to ask her for it when I want to pull it out.

You know, there are some things that a man should never, never say out loud … just sayin (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

#97

Dan Hilyer said:

Devon Sinsley said:

I never ever lose my man card. . .My wife keeps it for me. . .O have to ask her for it when I want to pull it out.

You know, there are some things that a man should never, never say out loud … just sayin (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

I swear I don’t know him! I would never have brought him here to compete, I swear… oh Lordy!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)

#98

#99

I like your slate roof and copper gutters Hollywood. Now I know how you got your name (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#100

Devon Sinsley said:

I never ever lose my man card. . .My wife keeps it for me. . .O have to ask her for it when I want to pull it out.

Devon, I am not sure this is right place to be pulling out your man…um…yea.