That tank looks great.
Reminds me of Jack’s Cabin tank.
That was an informative drawing, Steve.
The rubbery stuff I mentioned in an earlier post, Dave, was, I think, a kind of eaves protection. It was fine pebble-textured -very fine and thin stuff, say 1/32". When I came across it I thought I might be able to use it to shingle some models, cutting it into strips, etc. On this tank of yours, I do hope you’ll go to the trouble of using cedar shakes.
I went searching for model airplane turnbuckles for you, and I found some but they’re pricey - over $5.00 apiece. And I didn’t find any that looked really suitable for this project - they all seemed to be for tightening cables, not rods and they looked far too sleek and modern. The more I thought about it, the better the idea of the bolt through a loop, tightened with a nut, seemed to me after all. I guess it’s a compromise, but all in all, I think I’d find it acceptable. You’d probably have to do a little metalwork, annealing and re-tempering. What have you been thinking up to this point?
As for me, I’m already looking forward to seeing the plumbing jobs progress soon!
From here, admiration on the project so far!
Cheers!
Cedar Shingles for the tank it is! Following Steves lead, after exhausting all the web stuff, I thought that maybe I could make my own shingles. Dug out some old scrap cedar that was 7/8 in thick I cut off a 2" end and started experimenting on the best way to cleave little pieces, Nosy neighbor stopped by and saw me struggling with a ax head, He said hold on and came back with a painters tool. It worked like a charm. Here’s how I did it. Cut two blocks and clamped together so I could cut two at once.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-77.jpg)
This tool has steel clear thru to the ferrow at the top so I could hit it with a hammer.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-76.jpg)
Lined up the tool and hit it with a hammer.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-78.jpg)
They split off much easer then I thought they would.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-75.jpg)
How many do I need? Laid out one of the spare roof pieces and test fit to see how many it took to cover. I’ll need about 85 per side, X 8 sides and a few spare.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-73.jpg)
It will look pretty good I think. Went back and split off 300 more.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-74.jpg)
About a thousand in the box…
Those are looking great Dave and it looks easy. I’m going to have to give it a try.
Rodney
Easy…Is that like how in today’s jargon, bad means good ?
Ralph
Wow! Hand split shingles! Wowsers! Good stuff!
I send a friendly reminder of Steve’s cautionary note to leave expansion space between them when you install them. They do swell when wet. That tank of yours is going to be a beautiful masterpiece, Dave!
The swelling can be controlled somewhat by sealing them with Thompson’s or something similar.
This is a task that can best be done while watching TV or listening to the radio. It does go faster than one might think.
Acrylic or perhaps silicone adhesive is probably the best bet for sticking them down.
Good job!
I was thinking of using Tightbond III. Is that glue to ridged? And not allowing enough give and take for expansion and contraction? Hence the silicone?
Silicone was recommended to me by one of manufactures of wooden kits for use on the shingles.
I’ve also heard the same from several other sources.
However, I’m not privy to why it is preferred over wood glue.
Ralph
Water soaks into the wood and works its way under the glue. Glue then loses its stickum and yr parts drop off, leaving a gooey mess behind.
Silicone, on the other hand, molds itself around and GRIPS those shingles like a stretched rubber band. They can get wet, they can expand, but that only makes the GRIP tighter. Eventually a wet shingle will dry out and re-shrink, mostly back to its original size, but the silicone simply contracts around it, gripping it like a rubberband again. Like glues, silicone also works its way into the grain and STICKS that way as well, and believe me it sticks big time. But the main point is that it doesn’t soften in the damp. It’s still important that the silicone under the shingles be on a surface that will remain dry.
No sweat… the shingles are going to take care of that, aren’t they?
… All this from a guy who places very little trust in adhesives outdoors, or paints, or water sealers, or any of these applied liquids. Mechanical joinery for me every time, please, and wood left au naturel, not painted, stained, or treated in any way. Out of plain stubborn distrust, tempered by a little knowledge and some old-fashioned experience, with maybe a little common sense for good measure, but mostly just a pig-headed unwillingness to break with methods I know and trust, I’d be nailing them on, but there are guys on this thread who believe in the silicone, and I bow to their experience. I just wouldn’t do it myself…
Anyway, it better be a good roof on this tank. I want that water to be good and dry.
Rather than Silicone caulk…'cause it’s real messy and IMHO not very user friendly. I use DAP ALEX PLUS, ‘acrylic latex caulk plus silicone’ both for modelling and everyday when installing kitchens etc. The clear stuff goes on white and then dries clear. It’s paintable, flexible and water clean-up.
Living in the land of high altitude, silicone based adhesives that are UV resistant are a good idea. UV6800 by Eclectic Products meets that specification. E6000 by the same manufacturer is widely available, but not UV resistant.
UV6800 meets all the weather element concerns: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/uv6800_retail.htm
•UV resistant Can be used in outdoor or marine applications and resists yellowing or cracking
•Flammability: NONE, this product is non-flammable.
•Flexible: Does not become brittle in cold weather;
can bond items subject to vibration.
•Chemical resistant: Safe for applications exposed
to dilute acids and dilute caustics.
•Abrasion resistant: Great for bonding objects
subject to normal wear.
•Waterproof: Can be submerged in fresh and salt water
after complete cure.
•Paintable: Paint to match surrounding area.
Nice work Dave!
@Ralph Don’t be afraid to give it a try… It took me under an hour to do all the shingles. NOTE: these are scaled at 1 1/2 scale. The slightly under 1/8 inch that I split off works out to be about 3/4 in thick @ scale. For 1:20 scale, at least the ones that I bought for another project from Ozark Miniatures, seamed to be almost to thin, and cutting your own would give you more control over the size (L x W).
I’m no pro by any means, and maybe Steve can shed some added light on this, as he has cut his own also, TIPS: use clear straight grain cedar or red wood. The froe (cutting tool) should not be really sharp, dull blunt, works best, you want to split, not cut. The first splits may not go all the way thru to the bottom, the wood will find the natural split point, and then all the rest of the splits on that piece will be uniform. Set the wood on a firm solid surface, I used the top of a table saw. Whack with a firm, follow thru stroke of the hammer or mallet.
Give it a try, if you need shingles. It really surprised me on how easy it really is.
@ Jerry, The E6000 or UV6800 is not available here in the 4 corners area, Lowes and HD both said that they could order it thou, 2-4 weeks typically. Can’t wait that long… The DAP Alex Plus it is. Never used it before, but I trust the wisdom of a working pro… Liked the thought of UV protection, as the tank will sit at 7000+ alt., but the shingles would be protecting the adhesive from direct light, so I think that it wouldn’t be a critical factor. On Gary A’s advice and others I did install a internal brace to the roof. Better safe then sorry.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-72.jpg)
Opinions Guys… : I kinda like the non perfect alignment of the shingle rows, aligned but not the perfect line from laying up against a board when installed, kinda a looser look. But the straight edge look gives a more precision, higher end, finished look. Some in-put please. I’m going to add a facia to the edge of the roof to finnish it off. I think that a very minimal overhang to the shingles, thou not technically correct, will protect them from damage and chipping off.
Perfectly aligned shingles would spoil the whole model!
Dave, perfectly aligned shingles do not exist in nature. Go with the more casual look. Note that does not mean sloppy. Remember these were craftsmen who took pride in their work. For anyone wanting to try this in the future, the froe is designed with a long handle for a reason.
(http://www.garrettwade.com/images/500/91P0801.jpg)
http://www.garrettwade.com/usa-made-splitting-froe/p/91P08.01/ The froe was driven in the width of its’ blade, then the cedar “butt” was stabilized with the workman’s foot and the handle of the froe was pulled toward the workman, thus splitting off a shake. I used my Buck knife in a similar manner. I just gave the back of the blade one tap with a small hammer, then twisted the knife, mimicking the action of the froe. Really easy to do. I like the idea of using the idea of the painter’s tool, though.
Steve Featherkile said:Absolutely. :D
Dave, perfectly aligned shingles do not exist in nature. Go with the more casual look. Note that does not mean sloppy. Remember these were craftsmen who took pride in their work.
A little water tank progress this weekend, Added the facia for a more finished look, I had to use the sled jig I made for the roof panels to get the beveled cut right. Painted them with Tightbond III to seal. As they were drying I Gave away my grand-daughter at her wedding Sun. Afternoon (BTW I work Tues. - Sat., My weekend is Sun. Mon.) Painted the facia, after the wedding last night. Primed the tank and the spout holder. Split a bunch of 1" long starter row shingles. The starter row was easy, lined them up against the edge, 2 lines of the DAP Alex Plus as adhesive.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-80.jpg)
The first full shingle lines up on the bottom edge also, But I had to draw a line to guide me for the glue, I have trouble with the Calking gun and getting the line of glue where it would do the most good.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-81.jpg)
Built a jig to help with the cuts of all the angled edges. A Very sharp chisel makes quick work of it.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-82.jpg)
I got 3 rolls around before calling quits for the night. The Alex Plus adhesive does have a longer “Set Time”
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-83.jpg)
AND Finally… I got the first color coat on the tank and spout support.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-84.jpg)
It’s starting to look semifinished.
That really came out sharp Dave. Shingles really set it off with the color.