Large Scale Central

Working Water Tank Build

Modeling
#101

Wait??? So your saying your actually gonna read and follow the instructions? If so were gonna have to take your “Man Card” …:wink:
Nice drawings Gary…:slight_smile:

#102
David Russell said:
Wait??? So your saying your actually gonna read and follow the instructions? If so were gonna have to take your "Man Card" ....;) Nice drawings Gary.....:)
Rooster, he said he was just gonna lookit the pictchures. "Tain't the same thing at all. Cain't chu read?
#103

Instructions? What instruction? If there are any will someone please post them. Right now I’ll take some instructions. I just spent 2 1/2 hours building 2 jigs and tried a test cut on scrap, right side cut up, left side cut down, they don’t match from the center out… I got something wrong, and I think that it’s compounding on each other…I’ll sleep on it tonight, and try to figure it out in the morning. Part of the problem is trying to lay out a 40.52 deg angle for the cuts, and then add a bevel to that in one cut…or split it to 20.26 deg down the middle AAARRRGGG!!!

#104

Dave do you have a bandsaw?
Dennis

#105

Dave do you have a bandsaw?
Dennis

#106

Big day for the water tank crew. HUGE thanks to Gary Armitstead for his extra effort in helping get thru this. We have been e-mailing back and forth behind the scenes. I found the error that was causing all the miss alignment with the old cutting jig. Stepped back, and with Garys help figured out how to make the compound cuts from only one side of the board, and it worked perfectly the first try. The cut was 40.52 deg, with a bevel angle of 10 deg. For the cutting jig the saw blade was tilted to the Left 10 deg, and the board was in the jig at 20.26 deg off axis to the blade. Heres how it looked for the first cut. The top side is down, your looking at the bottom side.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-61.jpg)

And the the opposite side for the second cut.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-62.jpg)

Then used the scrap, as guide on the miter saw to cut to 13.37" length.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-63.jpg)

I cut 10 to be able to pic the best 8 for use, the Jig worked perfect, now I have 2 extras.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-64.jpg)

In Prep for tapeing for glueing, laid out the 8 wedges in registration.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-65.jpg)

Here is a view showing the 10 deg bevel on the sides of each wedge.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-66.jpg)

I duct taped the seams. flipped over and glued the beveled edges, folded it up, taped the final seam, and placed it up side down in a round bucket to hold it while the glue dried. I did put 1" 23 Gage pins in each outside corner to help hold in place to be safe. Sorry guys no photos of that. Picture a big funnel setting on a trash can. I must have done some thing right, When it dried I sat it on a table and all 8 sides laid flat. I was stoked at this point. TA DAAAAAHHH!

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-68.jpg)

Tackled the angle trimming of the top of the staves so that we got a tighter fit. A few strokes with a razor sharp hand plane took care of that.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-67.jpg)

Roof fits like a glove, Sealed the surface with a thick coat of Tightbond III glue for waterproofing.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-69.jpg)

I’m on a roll today, and cut and built the spout hanger, and got it installed. Now it really looks like a water tank.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-71.jpg)

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/WT-70.jpg)

Next up, shingles and those undecided bands.

#107

ALL of the credit for this project goes to Dave. It’s not easy to get drawings from a stranger and understand how all the pieces go together. It definitely takes a gifted craftsman to do this! Turned out beautiful Dave.:slight_smile:

#108

I’ll second that!

and add…Outstanding!

#109

It has been fun watching as this project evolved. Great work!

#110

Great looking build Dave.

#111

Very nice. That must be over 4 feet tall, right? Will you be making your own shingles?

#112

Thanks for the good words guys.

It’s about 5 1/2 ft. tall right now. As for the shingles, unless some one can direct me to someplace that sells 1 1/2 scale shingles (Hint hint), I,m gonna hafta make my own,

Cutting three tabs from standard shingles would be to thick I think. Especially on the ridges. I would need to find something thinner. Ideas anyone?

#113

Wow! That’s a thing of beauty! Way to go Dave, and Gary, too! Those roof panels fit together beautifully, don’t they?

I think the decisions you made about the rise of the roof and the overhang and all that look just perfect to me!

Now you’re deciding on shingles.

  1. Thinner stuff: There’s a stick-on rubbery sheet stuff you can buy by the roll at Lowes’ roofing Department. It’s black, looks like shingles, it’s thin, and you can cut it with shears or a knife. But a whole roll costs $60.00 or so. It’s called weatherguard or something like that. You could maybe get a smaller amount from a roofing contractor, and cut your shingles from that. At Lowes you can pick up a little blue folder with a sample stapled in.

  2. You used to be able to get used printers’ plates, aluminum sheet, from the local newspaper or printer’s. Is this still the case? I don’t lnow…

  3. If I were doing this project I’d seriously consider ripping real cedar into thin strips and cutting my own shakes from that. I think with a rip blade on my table saw it wouldn’t take that long really. I’d tack them onto my roof.

I’m guessing the real tanks were shingled… (?) But maybe later on some of them might have been covered with ‘tin’, perhaps even just flat ‘tin’. On page 1 you were riding a shay, weren’t you? If your buddy thinks of it as a backwoods logging type operation RR, then maybe his tank would be just covered with tin…

I have no idea how one might do corrugated material at this scale. Now, there’s a challenge…

This roof covering is an important decision.

After all, you’ll want to keep that water good and dry… :wink:

#114

Cedar shakes were not ripped on a table saw, they were cut using a froe. One summer, I worked on a team that replaced a cedar shake roof on the lodge at our church’s summer camp. That’s how I got the idea to do Aristo’s barn.

To replace the roof on Aristo’s barn, I made a bazillion cedar shakes, using cedar from the orange box store, a pocket knife as the froe, and a jewler’s hammer. The work went surprisingly fast, once I got in the groove.

I sealed the cedar with Thompson’s.

#115
Steve Featherkile said:
Cedar shakes were not ripped on a table saw, [url=http://www.craftsofnj.org/toolshed/articles/froes%20by%20hank%20allen/Hank%20Allen%20on%20Froes.htm]they were cut using a froe[/url]. One summer, I worked on a team that replaced a cedar shake roof on the lodge at our church's summer camp. That's how I got the idea to do Aristo's barn.

To replace the roof on Aristo’s barn, I made a bazillion cedar shakes, using cedar from the orange box store, a pocket knife as the froe, and a jewler’s hammer. The work went surprisingly fast, once I got in the groove.

I sealed the cedar with Thompson’s.


Hey, Dave! I think Steve just volunteered…

#116

Ok Steve, You have piqued my curiosity, would it work with 1 1/4" cedar at 2" long? And how did you taper them?

#117

A true shake split with a froe doesn’t have much, if any taper. Any taper that a shake has it gets at the mill by being resawn, much more work than I want to do. The first course at the eve is a half length shake, then a full length shake is laid over that, giving the impression of a taper. Each successive course exposes about half of the shake below, again giving the impression of a taper. Here is a drawing that gives you the idea…

(http://www.watkinsawmills.com/img/shingleapplication.gif)

I think you might be trying to get too much width at 1.25 inches on a 2 inch long shake. I don’t think it would look right. Try it to see, but I think you would be happier with 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide on a 2 inch shake. Don’t forget to leave some room for expansion between each shake. Ask me how I know this… :frowning: Or, you could just say the heck with it and cover the roof with 400 - 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. :stuck_out_tongue:

#118

At this scale 1 1/4 works out to 10" wide and the 2" comes in at 16". I thought that 8-10 inches was pretty standard width for shakes.

#119
Dave Taylor said:
At this scale 1 1/4 works out to 10" wide and the 2" comes in at 16". I thought that 8-10 inches was pretty standard width for shakes.
8-10 inches is pretty close, but as I recall, the shakes we cut were closer to 24 inches long. 16 inches is about as short as they were made. Not may roofers would recommend using them, but then, we are not in the roofing business, are we. :lol:

Give it a try and see if you like it.

#120

Excellent work Dave!
:slight_smile: