Hi Bill, glad to see you back.
Yes, walnut would be much lighter. But I wanted it to look somewhat like the ore.
Through the week I finished up the loads, and as of yesterday all was set for final assembly.
The main issue was fit of the bin to the chassis. All was fine a few weeks ago, but either the bins warped or the wooden supports swelled after restaining sanded areas. Anyway the bins didn’t rest on their supports decently.
So, more sanding, and painting of the sanded areas…
… and when the feet didn’t touch the frame, I used styrene as feeler gauges and cut shims from the winning strip. Then glued those on and painted them. Bruce, the Chopper works great, thanks!
After all that, I just glued the bins onto their end supports. That went nice and quickly. I used E6000 because you can’t see it, and to give me the ability to separate them if need be.
I was going to mask the journals and give them all another weathering coat, but after looking them over am deciding against all that, they look good enough.
That leaves brake wheel and door crank installation (maybe 5 minutes), minor touchup, and figuring out the coupler links. I have orings, but if they’re too clumsy I’ll print a batch out of “tough” resin.
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Since you are almost finished and everything looks great (btw). I have to ask if you are sure those cars had coil spring bogies?
Thanks Rooster. I’ve been following one original drawing, and a couple of later ones, all of which show the journals set up like this. This is the original drawing, and doesn’t show springs.
However, the car builder’s dictionary has details of this journal type, including its spring.
A later “historical” drawing, by the prominent (but now deceased) V&T historian Dale Darney, does show them.
My springs look sucky for sure. I saw awesome and perfect blackened Aristo springs, in big bags for a few bucks, at NELSTS. But they were too small in diameter. Earlier in the spring season, I bought samples of every McMaster candidate, but they were all too stiff. I ended up with springs from the local hardware store, but had to cut, end-form, and blacken them. Had to special order more I think… they ran out. And after all that, they still don’t look right.
Eventually I decided enough was enough, and stayed with what you see. I’m not happy with the springs at all, but have been willing to let a week pass by and completely forget it.
Until you brought it up.
Cliff,
Another source for springs is century spring. you will find a limitless supply and online ordering. maybe a little pricey, but you would get exactly what you need.
Al P.
Cliff,
That’s what I’m here for buddy!
That’s a great tip, thanks Al.
Cars are done!
Packed up all the detritus, lots of reject parts, I might model a crashed car or two.
Tools…
… frame and load extras, maybe for later expansion…
… and spares.
All packed and deep-sixed, and yay I have my worktable back.
I was going to put the string behind a loco on the layout, but realized there’s something I need to do first.
Hard to admit… but…
I need a rooster pole.
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Great work Cliff all up to your fantastic standards. Will you keep these or do they go to the museum?
Thanks David!!
Yeah I’ll be keeping these. 
NV State RR Museum has a great collection of near-G scale models of each V&T loco. They’ve also been given amazingly-detailed F scale models of one of the V&T water cars, a V&T ventilated box car, and the amazing V&T locomotive transfer car. These kits were designed (and castings mastered) by Al Pomeroy, and the models built by David Frey. But as I understand it, NSRM has yet to make the display space for them.
If and when they do, I’d be happy to donate my standard gauge car (95), since I don’t have anywhere to run it. It’s nowhere near the detail and perfection of Al’s & David F.'s models though, so I’d fear they’d keep my ore car in a back room. 
Bruce’s awesome shay is the only loco I have with link & pin capability, so that’s what’ll be hauling the cars for their maiden voyage.
The pockets work out to couple them directly, but I already started on the rooster pole.
Sometime this week, after a little track maintenance, I’ll put it all out on the layout and see what breaks.
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You got one many times in this thread!
Just go back and re-read twice as recommended by the experts many years ago.
I would concur.
Just label the clearly now not what you think you will remember 10yrs later when you decide to make more or find there was actually a modified car or 5 that popped up in the historic books.
Yep, I won’t remember how I did this at all. I can’t even remember what all those special ore car tools were for.
That’s why I’m relying on this thread, and Bob’s software & maintenance, to be there when I need it, say, 10 years from now.
And even then I’ll probably say screw this, grab a beer, and go watch another rerun of Brokenwood. 
If you have rooster pole, a round of penicillin should clear it right up.
I took a late lunch break just now and put the train together. That’s Bruce’s beautiful Shay.
I was pleased with how easy the links and pins were to handle, my first with those. The o-ring fits easily, and stays put while I push in the pin.
While I was at it, I did an initial stability check. All are staying on the track, but the loaded cars do better. So I might make more loads. Anyway, this rough vid shows part of their first outing.
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I’m fascinated how you hid the pull string on that consist!
Excellent work as usual and nice to see them out in the sun!
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Nope, it was the pole. And I’m gonna make you sign it at some point.
After the conference.