just using old worn out rail.
Just 3D print some code 250 plastic rail.
Who would think of bolting down the water barrels and then have no safety rails around the refuge? 
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They would at least way cool!
Late to the party, but nope - they would look really good tho. I did code 250 with 332 main and it looks nice.
Cheers
N
My apologies Korm, my thoughts went to both the proto and the protective.
what??
apologies? from you? - are most definitely not needed or desired.
a forum without differing opinions would be like breakfeast without salt and sugar.
i woke up this morning with guardrails in my head.
back to Cliff’s original question:
yes, there should be.
guardrails just inside of the rails are hindering wheels to drift to the middle of the track.
by doing that, they hinder the wheels on the other side to climb over the rail to the outside.
so, if anybody, i should apologise…
Thanks Al, makes sense.
Thanks Korm, that’s what I found when experimenting yesterday.
Answer #1: An evil bridge designer. Bonus evil points for starting the fire, thereby making the little 1:24 guys tip the barrels without handrails.
Answer #2: As I explained with the straight trestles, handrails would be an added (and very fragile) leaf trap, asking to be destroyed during the leaf blowing.
Answer #3: Of course Rick, I’d love to have handrails; they were in the original design. Maybe, for this trestle, I should bring them back in. But then we’d risk Sean going into grand mal, and we can’t have that.
Made me think about my pics of the Norfolk Southern Lurgan Branch. Before and after guardrails and still no guardrails.
Same creek different bridge within 1/4 mile apart. New guardrails on one bridge but still none on the other.
Honestly Cliff,
The more I think about modeling the guardrails and water barrels on your railroad.
I personally would be concerned with getting the locomotive pull string stuck on the details more than anything.
Yeah, but when have you ever brought yours over for a running session?
Thanks for those photos. I’ve been thinking about pipes for posts, with nylon cord between, and only on one side.
I tried but my cars got stuck in your tunnel curves.
So I had to do drivebys then go to the MOW crew train so I could go thru the tunnel curves.
2 Likes
Very cool. Where was I when you ran that?
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What I used to solve the fragility issue.
1/8 inch brass rod and 20 gauge copper wire soldered on.
Worked for me on all my bridges and has held up fine for many years, well except that time a deer
used the bridge as a spring board to clear the 8 foot fence.
Looks great, Rick.
Yeah, deer are hard to design for. We got them all over the place. And asteroids, those are too. But your bridge looks like it could handle one.
The main rails are down (Rooster, I took the day off), and am starting on the guard rails.
I’d started out with Kadee rail gauges (thanks, Bruce!), but noticed that with these hideously tight curves (R4’) they’re not as accurate. This is due to their having 3 points of rail contact. I spiked the rail with the Kadee gauge flipped one way; but when turning the gauge around, it was either too tight or fairly loose.
So I made these gauges to 45mm, and they fit LGB track exactly. (Oddly, they don’t fit my Train Li track because it’s 44mm! Weird.) The gauges also hold the guard rails tightly, so those shuold go quickly.
I’ve decided to move ahead with the handrails on the barrel side. They’ll represent pipes with tarred rope slung between.
