OK, Governor Overthink!
With the Department of Over Engineering
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I’m really getting in to the layered plywood look for the front wall.
Gotta make use of all the cut offs !
Today I finalized the materials order. Two trucks coming next week!
Now that it’s really happening, I began light demo by removing the wainscoting and all the trim on the front…
I don’t think its a show stopper, but there was quite a bit of rot hidden…
Most of that bottom plate is still very solid after I broke away the dry rotten wood. If this was a sign restoration, I would soak it with wood hardener and patch it with wood and bondo. This area will not be seen, so no bondo needed. I will probably patch the floor because it might fall under the door threshold.
The balance of today I’ll prep areas to receive thirty two 4x8 sheets, thirty two sicks of lumber, and 7 bales of insulation! I just now noticed the count of sticks and sheets was the same!
Put a good roof on it , vinyl side it. Call the exterior done.
Stuff is about to get real…
That’s only part of the order. Door, window and furnace on a different truck.
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I don’t see any bandages … 
Right on man!
ABCDEFG
Once I got the materials off the pallets and organized I started in on finishing the paneled area. This is where the furnace will be installed, so it needs to be done early.
It might be hard to see in this picture, but the right hand edge of those t&g boards is very random. They also don’t fall on a stud…
I started by trimming the ends of the paneling straight with my 5" circular saw. Once that was done. I added supports for vertical boards on 16" centers…
Insulation was cut and added to each section…
Then the verticals boards were added…
Once framing is in place, there will be one more horizontal board added to match the height of the verticals to bring the wall up to cieling height.
I still don’t have the furnace, door or window. They are waiting on other items to arrive before shipping it all together. I may make the hour drive to Altoona to pick up the furnace.
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Atta boy, Jon!
We took a ride to Altoona today. I want to get started installing the furnace and the Depot was waiting on several other items before delivering it. I’ll still let them deliver the door and window.
Tomorrow I’ll start the install by drilling for the vent. I have all kinds of hole saws in stock. The spec is 3.125" and I have 3.5" which would interfere with screw holes 
So, the local hardware store will get some business in the morning.
I’m debating on cutting a square hole in the metal siding and mounting a wood block that is then drilled for the vent. If I don’t do that I’ll need to be accurate on where the hole goes to not hit on a rib.
The template on the wall is roughly in position…
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Suggestion when you are ready to paint the interior, use a base coat of Kilz Mold and Mildew primer as a precaution.
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Good suggestion. The interior walls that show signs of mold on both sides is coming down and being replaced with new 3/8 sheathing. I may retain it for bench work, but it will be treated before re-use.
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I got the hard part of the furnace install done today. It took longer to calculate where it should go to avoid wall studs and ribs on the metal siding than to do the job!
Hole cut…
Flue/Vent installed…
I’m having the gas line installed Friday, then I can call for Propane.
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Dumb question for the amateur electricians in the group.
My preliminary electrical plan is to wire around the perimeter for several 15A convenience outlets. For lighting I’ll use low voltage LED cieling lamps powered by a 24V supply and two standard bulb sockets in the “attic” area. The normal current draws will be a stereo system, a desktop PC and monitor and perhaps a few battery chargers. My saws will be the biggest draw, but they are used only occasionally. So far, running on extension cords, my saws have not tripped the 20A house breaker.
I will be running a single 20A direct bury cable to the garage from the existing GFCI box I mounted on the house this summer.
Where this cable terminates inside the garage would you install a breaker box or just a large box for wire junctions?
I think that a breaker box would be misleading, and perhaps a code violation, as it will be fed by 12-2 and probably have two or three 15A breakers. Running properly sized cable from my main panel to legally support a sub panel is not in the budget.
I do like the idea of being able to isolate sections of the wiring with breakers. Perhaps just switches or master GFCI outlets feeding the circuits
BTW, There are no permits or inspections required here in the sticks. That’s not a license to violate the national electrical code, but it’s not enforced. My crawlspace is a perfect example with unsecured wire running all over the place and a few junction boxes without covers. I will be addressing all of that in the future.
then you do not want to look at my shop, i just added another 8’ extension multi plug extension to my system, which is already two extensions long. i figure if only running one item at a time i am safe.
Al P.
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Right now I’m running off a 50Ft 12-3 extension that has a multi-tap and an extension plugged into it. I’m having no issues, but I want to make things a bit more permanent.
Jon, I’m no electrician, but have a couple questions. Is your house breaker dedicated to this new line to the shop, with no risk of other house loads on it?
I’d at least put a small single-breaker box in, same rating as the house breaker, or less. That way if you trip something, since the fault is gauranteed to be from a shop receptacle (right?), you have easy access, and don’t need to track mud into the house to flip the breaker there. 
What kind of cable? Some 12awg types handle 25A or 30A.
AI Overview
Yes, you can run a 12-2 underground cable from a 20-amp breaker to a subpanel in your garage
, but there are several important considerations for safety and code compliance. Ensure you use the correct underground feeder (UF) cable or run standard NM cable inside a suitable conduit, and always install GFCI protection for exterior outlets.
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