Holds up well to handling. You cannot really emboss the metal enough to stick out much where it would get crushed by handling. Rivets are pretty solid, you can rub them out somewhat with a fingernail, but it’s not real forgiving. I usually just re-do the piece, if I make a mistake, and I do! Stuff is cheap, so a re-do is not pricey.
Jerry,
I don’t believe I ever stated “That’s one hell of a good idea” using the tape. I have worked with it numerous times and found it very unforgiving in longer lengths doing duct work. However with your application in small increments it looks killer!
That stuff sticks like cat crap to a shag rug.
Thanks David, I do work with smaller pieces, about 6" is as long as I have gone. If you just angle it a bit, so only the edge is touching where you want, then work over from there it’s not too bad. Did have to re-do several pieces today as I was working. You should see my trash can.
About finished up the sides of the rotary. Vents were made from the grills from the B unit that is the base I am building it on. Still need to bend wire for all the ladders. The top I’ll just wing I guess, I don’t have any pix of that.
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotaryFoilSideVEnt.JPG)
Rear angle, may put foil inside around the fan also. Opinions?
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotaryFoilRearVent.JPG)
Jerry Barnes said:I understand! ;)
Did have to re-do several pieces today as I was working. You should see my trash can.
Wouldn’t it come to reason, that the construction would be basically the same through out the structure? I would think the roof would be a lot like the sides. Really great work, Jerry!
I did find a pix online that shows a bit of the top, nothing in detail. COuld not get the videos to run of it that I found online, will go to youTube and see what I can dig up.
Bit more done on the rotary. I had the top bump on the cab top glued on but did not like it so removed it and building the one you see here. Discharge scoop will be changed also, but left so I can remove it for operation. Note the figure I made is now seated in the cab.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotaryTop1.JPG)
Once the top is all foiled I will add some vents on top and some walkways and stanchions.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotaryTop2.JPG)
Trucks are painted silver as the original one is. Note the LED’s on the front also.
Looking great.
Are you planning on adding any UP decals? I wonder how well any type of lettering would stick to the foil tape? But it sure looks shiny like the prototype.
Wife used to run a sign business, still has her cutter. If she can get her sign software to work okay(been having troubles) she will cut me some vinyl lettering. The tape is metal, so paint/whatever sticks to it fine. I used it on my Challenger and other builds and the paint sticks on fine.
Got a bit more done on the rotary. WIndows cut out, bump on top done, new discharge chute. Some windows are black vinyl to simulate the look of glass. Now up on the roof to do the walks/vents/stanchions. Ladders on the side also. Then lettering!
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotFoiled2.JPG)
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotFoiled1.JPG)
Right nice Jerry, that tape does it. One minor thing though, after looking at all your photos I could only find 14,897 rivets. You’re 3 short!
Jerry,
I have been following this build with great interest. Your techniques are really innovative.
Hopefully, before you get too much further, you need to reverse your discharge chute on top of the rotary. The chute needs to discharge to the left side of the rotary to coincide with the rotation of the fan wheel. I hope this does not cause too much grief, but better now than later.
Bob C.
Bob,
The chute just sits on top for looks, it will be removed for operations. You are right on the direction, I just goofed when I made it, not re-doing it now! 
After running the rotary I decided to try another blade. It’s the one recommended by Rayman over on his web site. Ron Senek got me one when he ordered his. Bit more straight so may grab the snow better. Jim Carter suggested a wing nut in the center, he found that helpful to break up the snow. I got a 1/2" one, notched out the 3/8" carriage bolt some to accept it. I also added some weight to the rotary and the RS-3 pusher unit. Those used truck tire weights work great!
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotRedBlade.JPG)
The red blade is prototypical, mostly the UP plow has alternating red/silver.
That looks really good . Can you enlighten me as to what the blade is from? Or post a link to the other site.
Ron,
Ray used a Marbek #430, also is available as a Eureka 12988. Here’s his web site talking about the
rotary he made and a link to the Marbek site:
http://www.rayman4449.dynip.com/Rotary_snow_plow.htm
No snow can drive the rotary crew nuts, can play checkers only soooo long. So they snuck around and painted the blades on the rotary silver! Management was NOT happy and docked their pay, but they stood tall and proud of what they had done.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotBladeSlvr.JPG)
I got the Ozark handles from Mike Kidman(good person to order from). Painted them red and made a jig for drilling all the holes. I feel they add to the look, one in Cheyenne has the red ladders, if you look back on previous posts.
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/RotRedLdr.JPG)
My wife cut the vinyl lettering and I got it on today. This about finishes it up, some grill work on the back is all.
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/Rot10.JPG)
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/Rot11.JPG)
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/JerryBarnes/Rotary%20Build/Rot12.JPG)
