While I’ve used Weld On a LOT, it doesn’t go well with either Plastruct or Precision Products sheets. It will definitely soften them up, though usually when I’m not looking.
I get the Welder from here.
Thanks for the link. I don’t think I’ve seen that at Lowes. Might be handy to keep some around.
Normally Goop works just fine, and I go through a LOT of that, but most of the time I’m gluing the PP stuff.
Just curious… If the binding surface is the mortar, and not the brick, will there be enough glued surface to hold the brick veneer to the substrate, over time?
Steve Featherkile said:
Just curious… If the binding surface is the mortar, and not the brick, will there be enough glued surface to hold the brick veneer to the substrate, over time?
Steve,
That is a good question and actually I have an answer from my own personal results. I used PP brick sheets on my firehouse build. I also used a contact adhesive not welder but just like it. What happened was where the glue did not fill the voids and after a year or so the sheet started to bubble up. After a few pin hole fixes with CA I eventually tore off the sheet and applied a new sheet with 50yr caulk. I skim coated the sub base heavily laid the sheet over it and squished it down until the caulk pushed out all sides. This was a fantastic fix and worked well. However a year later during a very hot summer and in full sun the firehouse warped pretty badly and was taken into the shop for reconstruction (which hasn’t happened yet)
Just me personally Ken …If I was to do the PP brick sheets again I would used the caulk as it filled the voids and adhered very well.
A trick I use on bending the sheets “but you have to be very cautious”. Mark your line where you want your corner bent, put that line on the edge of your workbench then carefully use a micro torch along that line from underneath and above. What will happen is the sheet will start to fall on that line under it’s own weight. Once it does push it flush against the side of the workbench to make a clean bend(not touching the heated surface). This works very well and will stay conformed however once again you need to be very careful with the heat and only apply it to the line you want bent. Try it with a scrap piece.
Note that Ken is using Plastruct sheets for this build. They are not nearly as thick or as 3D as the Precision Products sheets.
Steve Featherkile said:
Just curious… If the binding surface is the mortar, and not the brick, will there be enough glued surface to hold the brick veneer to the substrate, over time?
Normally I’ll use Goop which is thicker and I can butter it on with a knife especially on a flat surface and it takes awhile to set. That won’t work on the corners since it’s under a bit more tension to hold it in place. And that stuff will melt the plastic if you use too much. I was trying the Weld On, but that stuff was drying TOO fast and it just about runs out of the tube, it’s so thin. I ordered some of that contact cement that Bruce posted a link for.
Iffen ida been thinkin, Ida asked him how he did it when I was down there, instead of findin out the hard way…
Ken, finding out the hard way means you won’t forget it easily.
Bruce Chandler said:
Note that Ken is using Plastruct sheets for this build. They are not nearly as thick or as 3D as the Precision Products sheets.
I did note that Bruce and I have no experience with the Plastructs sheets.
One other thought on the corners is a slight score (v groove) on the back side then make the bend if not interested in the heating method.
David Maynard said:
Ken, finding out the hard way means you won’t forget it easily.
Finding what out the hard way?..
Oh, that.
When I made my bridge abuttments about 5 years ago, I wrapped PP stone sheets around a base made from PVC decking material. I used a small Break/bender from Micro Mark to make the bend. The way I did it was to slowly bend the plastic while blowing hot air across the plastic where the bend was taking place. By working slowly, I was able to avoid cracking and splitting. I was able to achieve a sharp 90 deg. bend.
I glued the styrene sheets to the PVC form using Welder. I’ve used Welder almost exclusively when assembling structures for outdoor use.
After 5 years the abuttments show no signs of delaminating.
Here’s what it looked like assembled and weathered.
Doc Watson
I’m a big fan of Welder, several years ago I was scratching my head trying to figure out an easy way to attach wood ties to my Garden Metal Products bridge, as a last resort I glued them on with Welder, the bridge has been outside for three seasons and only two on one end have come loose and that was due to being stressed by the section of track the bridge was attached to. I get mine at Lowe’s in the section with all the specialty glues, like Goop and Gorilla glue.
Sounds like a great product. Any one have a picture of it? Does it come in a tube?
Ron Tremblay said:
Sounds like a great product. Any one have a picture of it? Does it come in a tube?
Yes, a tube.
Thanks Bruce
I’ve got some of that ordered.
On any of my other buildings I’ve never had to bend any sheets around them. They all butted up to the edge, and were covered in some sort of trim.
This has been a first and a learning experience at that.
Wow those are fine lookin’ bridge abutments !!
Welder hmmm maybe that is the product I’ve been looking for to assemble/utilize the AristoCraft Transmission towers !? Probably a fair weather outside assembly job due to presumed toxic fumes though 
Oh well, next yrs construction season, since the remaining warmish days are needed to do some brushing (darn thyme is aggressive this year) along the tracks again, previous to the snowplow assignments…
doug c
Thanks Doug.
You can also use it as a contact cement. Apply to one or both sides, press together then pull apart and wait 10 minutes before re-attaching. It really grabs and holds. Smell is not bad at all.
Doc Watson
Is it done yet Ken?
Shawn (napkin builder) Viggiano said:
Is it done yet Ken?
Whats the rush? Patience, my boy, patience. You’ve been hanging around Rooster too long…
At the moment were are on plan B, since plan A wasn’t working. I’m awaiting the arrival of my order for the contact cement, since the adhesive I was using wasn’t working, at least on the corners. Meanwhile it’s onward and upward with what I can get done.
Plan B seems to be working. At least the corner problem is solved somewhat. As far as the seams go, I may have to live with what I got. Either the building is crooked or the sheets aren’t square or a combination of the 2…