Sean McGillicuddy said:
Ken
This is looking good.
Do you have any updated pics.
Not yet, the brick sheets I ordered finally came in the mail yesterday…
And I’m still puzzling over what I should cover the non-brick parts with.
Well , Ken , don’t put brick over the windows .
Seriously , which parts are you bricking ?
Mike
I’m following this build Ken. Looking good. I couldn’t even think about scratch building before you enlightened me with The Grist Mill thread. I finally have mine in place and the water running turning the water wheel. I had to build the stream and pond as soon as I returned to Florida (Well, it still needs some finishing touches).
I used some leftover pressure treated decking, and ripped it square to use as corner posts to screw in the sides of the coroplast, instead of the PVC that you are using because it was free and what I had on hand.
Mike Morgan said:
Well , Ken , don’t put brick over the windows .
Seriously , which parts are you bricking ?
Mike
That’s still in the deliberation stage, whether to have just the 2 sides brick or brick just half way up all the way around it.
Mike McLaughlin said:
I’m following this build Ken. Looking good. I couldn’t even think about scratch building before you enlightened me with The Grist Mill thread.
I just appreciate the fact that someone got something out of it. Buildings don’t have to be elaborate or fancy to serve a purpose. Eventually you’ll work up to that. I just happen to like quick and easy…easy being the key word…
Ken , I see what you’re getting at , something like brick up to the upper window sills and wood clad above that ?
How about telling us how you cut the parts square without too much blood letting ? Because the parts look pretty square in the pictures and some folks just don’t know how to get things squared away .
Mike
Mike Morgan said:
Ken , I see what you’re getting at , something like brick up to the upper window sills and wood clad above that ?
How about telling us how you cut the parts square without too much blood letting ? Because the parts look pretty square in the pictures and some folks just don’t know how to get things squared away .
Mike
That’s what the kid across the street is for. Ken calls him Three Finger Jack.
Steve
I bet he holds up the remaining two when Ken’s back’s turned .
Mike
Mike Morgan said:
Ken , I see what you’re getting at , something like brick up to the upper window sills and wood clad above that ?
How about telling us how you cut the parts square without too much blood letting ? Because the parts look pretty square in the pictures and some folks just don’t know how to get things squared away .
Mike
Getting the parts square is the easy part, Keeping them square while the gluing and screwing process is going on is a little tougher. Since I didn’t think to take any pictures while that process was going on, I’ll try to explain it.
Cutting the parts, I have a foot long square similar to a carpenters square that I use along with the fence on the radial arm saw, but any flat surface will do as long as you have a flat buffer to press the square and the material against while cutting. Then I just run a hobby knife down the side of the square a couple of times till it’s all the way through the material.
The square support pieces I cut on a table saw. I’ll place the board on edge against the saw blade and run the fence up tight against the board, that way when it’s cut it’s perfectly square. When those are glued to the coroplast I make sure to use plenty of clamps to hold it in place while I run the deck screws through the piece.
The brick veneer will just cover the first floor along both sides and the front. I’l take a few picks while I’m doing that to show how I cut the veneer to go around the windows and doors. That part can get real tricky.
I had originally thought about using the “Board and Batten” veneer above the brick, but I’m not sure how that will look against the brick. It went well with the stone block on the Creamery, but I may go with the clapboard siding.
We’ll see…
Good explanation Ken , I hope it gives encouragement to others to try their building skills .
The “board and batten” may look a bit too bland above the perceived complication of brickwork ; the clapboard would probably complement the brickwork . The trouble is , I am swayed here by my perception of UK buildings of a similar nature which can have rough planks above the brickwork . So your local knowledge of building will have to be the deciding factor . Whatever you choose , I am sure it will be a handsome building .
Mike
Dont forget to build one for my new layout.
Ron Tremblay said:
Vaggiano, Now that’s funny:)
Type my last name in word and see how spell checker spells it lol…
Laying out and cutting the openings in the brick sheet for the windows and doors.
Glueing the brick sheets in place. Since the wall on the front is wider then the brick sheet I’ll have 2 seams along the front wall. Hopefully they won’t stick out to much.
(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2014/pawnshop20.jpg)
It does bend around the corners but it helps to keep it clamped while your messing with this part.
(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2014/pawnshop22.jpg)
(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2014/pawnshop23.jpg)
(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2014/pawnshop24.jpg)
I’m not real happy with how it turned out, but maybe, with a little weathering it won’t be to noticeable.
I painted a window and door light gray to see how it looked against the brick.
Ken Brunt said:
I’m not real happy with how it turned out, but maybe, with a little weathering it won’t be to noticeable.
Why?
Because your door is out of square about 1/64?
Hey Ken, I think it looks great. But I’m guessing you were hoping for a more crisp corner on the bend? Looks to me like you just laid it down and folded it over with glue? If it were me, I’d do a test fit, find exactly where you want the bend, then take it off and use a bending break if available, or some good set of straight edges to get it started. Then once the crease is started fold it over completely on it’s self to make a definite bend. I would experiment with a scrap piece to make sure going over all the way doesn’t start to crack the out side but you get the picture.
Love the simple build tech. I’m hoping to employ the “screw and post” method some day.
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
Hey Ken, I think it looks great. But I’m guessing you were hoping for a more crisp corner on the bend? Looks to me like you just laid it down and folded it over with glue? If it were me, I’d do a test fit, find exactly where you want the bend, then take it off and use a bending break if available, or some good set of straight edges to get it started. Then once the crease is started fold it over completely on it’s self to make a definite bend. I would experiment with a scrap piece to make sure going over all the way doesn’t start to crack the out side but you get the picture.
Love the simple build tech. I’m hoping to employ the “screw and post” method some day.
This is the first time I’ve used this brick sheet so I wasn’t real sure how extreme I could bend it. I did pre-bend it some, but obviously not enough. There’s also not much gluing surface on the under side of the brick sheet, since the bricks are in a raised pattern, and the mortar lines are what’s actually hitting the glue. This has been a learning experience using this stuff. So, the next building I’ll try the brake method and see what happens.
It looks nice, Ken.
I don’t have a brake large enough to bend that stuff so I first glue one side down, clamp it in place and let it dry completely. Once dry, I hold a board up against the next side as I fold it and then use that same board to clamp it in place while the glue dries. I guess it sort of acts like a brake…
Bruce Chandler said:
It looks nice, Ken.
I don’t have a brake large enough to bend that stuff so I first glue one side down, clamp it in place and let it dry completely. Once dry, I hold a board up against the next side as I fold it and then use that same board to clamp it in place while the glue dries. I guess it sort of acts like a brake…
That’s pretty much how I was trying to do it. After the glue dried and the clamps and boards were removed. the edges along the corners popped out. I didn’t want to put too much glue there either, in case it melted the plastic.
I like the stuff, it’s easy to bend, and looks good. I just have to work on getting the corners looking better…
OK, that’s another thing - I used Welder Contact cement. It doesn’t dissolve the plastic.
I do know what you mean though - a few of my corners were not as crisp as I would like.
OK, I’ll remember that. I was using the Weld-On stuff. It may have been almost dry before I got the corners down.