Large Scale Central

Narrow Gauge ET&WNC style Coach Project

Modeling
#121

One of the cool things about working with Alan is his creativity. We’ve spent a lot of time on the phone discussing this project; one of our discussions was about the diaphragms. My parlor car had a cast rubber one, which is not flexible. It looks better than nothing, but it’s hardly prototypical. So, Alan came up with a basic design for a “working” diaphragm. It was up to me to assemble, but his design is really cool. It starts with 5 pieces, two of them are quite thin, and there are three hold pre-drilled.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0665.JPG)

I added some thin strips of styrene on the bottom of two of the pieces, as I decided to implement this with some bolts and springs. I started with some 3/4" 2-56 bolts and nuts. And some springs that I THINK are from Kadee. These were cut into 3/8" lengths. The bolt threads were filed down to allow for easy sliding. I drilled out the existing holes to fit my 2-56 bolts and set 3 bolts in the end piece. A length of spring was installed on each bolt.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0667.JPG)

The two layers are added, with a spring section between each layer. The nuts hold it all together and will be used later to hold this against the car end.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0669.JPG)

I have some fabric backing that I got from the local fabric store about 5 or 8 years ago, so I don’t remember the exact nomenclature. I cut it into a strip about 7/10 of an inch.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0670.JPG)

Then I cut some spacers that are 3/8” tall and tightened the nuts to temporarily hold everything in place. I applied a bead of E-6000 glue along each edge and glued the backing material in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0672.JPG)

Eventually, all sides are covered.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0673.JPG)

Next up, a coat of paint. :smiley: I’m hoping that the paint will flex and also cover this fabric. The springs now give it a nice easy flex movement. And, I’ll glue on the “skin” piece that will give it a more finished look.

#122

Bruce, I always used an R/C model car paint for my HO handrails because it had something in it to allow the paint to flex without it cracking and chipping. Might look into something like that.

#123

Ever get acrylic paint on a tshirt? (or one of yer good shirts for that matter)…works great…will stiffen the cloth a bit and its cheap as dirt…

#124

…:)…
Love the spring action!

#125
Bruce Chandler said:
And some springs that I THINK are from Kadee.
They sure look like it to me ....;)
#126

I decided to just paint them with acrylic paint, using the airbrush. Then I glued the front skin in place. Here it is with a bit of pressure on it.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/IMG_0675.JPG)

And just a side view. The material is not quite opaque, but I doubt you’ll notice when it’s attached to the car.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/IMG_0677.JPG)

#127

Thanks for the idea Bruce, now I can make working diaphragms on my F units. :slight_smile: I’d like to see the two that you made in action.

#128

For those of you playing along at home, it’s probably best to NOT put the skin on until after you install. Getting the nut screwed on to the top one is easy, but the two bottom ones are dang near impossible.

Plus, I had neglected to but the end beam in place - it’s hidden by the end wall skin, so no big deal. The key is to make sure that the bolts can move back and forth freely.

#129

I’ve never worked with the aluminum tape before, it’s pretty neat stuff.

I had a few Garland Ventilators left over and glued them in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0678.JPG)

I finally gave up on the Krylon Burgundy - it just keeps crazing, even when I follow Dave’s advice to just mist some light coats. Luckily, flat black doesn’t seem to have a problem.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0679.JPG)

#130

Today I finally started on the doors and windows.

First, I don’t really like clear styrene. It scratches easily and is not that easy to cut. Instead, I prefer Lexan, or acrylic. It doesn’t fog like styrene.

I bought some .020 Clear Lexan Sheet, 11.5" x 13" By Parma from RC-TradingPost.com (http://www.rc-tradingpost.com/par10414.html) This is .508mm thick stuff - A BIT thick as I wanted something under .5 mm, but I think it will work just fine.

The nicest part is that this stuff has protective sheets on both sides, and it’s very easy to take a Sharpie and mark where you want to cut.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0681.JPG)

The vestibule doors have just a small lip to hold the plastic, and before I glued them together I marked the pieces to cut. I also painted the backside of the doors.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0680.JPG)

I also glued the letterboards in place. It’s starting to look like a passenger car.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0684.JPG)

I still haven’t done the glazing for the double windows, that will be next.

#131

For some reason, I had been dreading glazing the windows; yet, once I got started I found it quite easy.

I started by laying out the 12 windows on my piece of Lexan. I cut a piece of the plastic runner that held one of the inner frames and used this for a template for the Sharpie to draw the window shape.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0685.JPG)

I also used it to test fit the cut window piece. If it fit fine in the hole, I knew it would also fit in the actual window side. There is a bit of leeway as the outside frames cover any gap, so it doesn’t have to fit exactly.

Once I cut all 12 out, it was time for assembly. I merely slipped the clear glazing in place and of course it fits. :wink:

Then I put the assembled inner frame in place and make sure it “clicked” into the opening, sandwiching the glazing. I put a weight on it and ran the tiny Tamiya glue brush around the outside edges. I couldn’t reach the bottom of the frame, but I think this should be OK.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0687.JPG)

The final glazing was for the restrooms. I sanded the inside with some fine sandpaper so it would appear frosted; then I glued those pieces in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0688.JPG)

Now I just have to attach the couplers and add a few more details.

Then the passengers…

#132

Whered you get those ventilators on the roof?

#133

I got those from Phil Dippel, when he was doing our original project.

If you’re going to go with the standard clerestory windows, they really don’t make much sense; but, if you’re going to plate them, you do need some ventilation. Hence, the Garland Ventilators.

#134

I used thin brass rod for the grabs next to the door, as well as the door latches.

I do believe I am done, though it does need some passengers.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0691.JPG)

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0693.JPG)

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0694.JPG)

I’m very pleased with how it turned out, and I’m looking forward to seeing some more completed models from the others in the project.

Working with Alan has been lots of fun and has made this project very enjoyable.

#135

Beautiful looking car, Bruce… It’ll be a wonderful match with your Parlor car…

#136

Very nice Bruce. You did a great job on it. It was fun following along.

#137

Not bad for an old guy…:wink:

Seriously, it’s a nice looking model. Well done!

#138

I got mine on Saturday… Whew this is going to be a project for me. Wanna build mine Bruce? :slight_smile:

#139

Nicely done Bruce. Really like the finished build. That paint does seem to have a lot of problems now.

#140

Beautiful job, Bruce :slight_smile:

I’ve had a lot of problems with almost all brands of paint “crazing” on plastic.

Flat Black in various brands hasn’t had the “crazing” problem.

So now, I either use a plastic primer, or Flat Black, for my first coat.

I also no longer mix brands. If I want to use a Krylon finish coat, I’ll use Krylon primer or Flat Black for my first coat.

Ralph