Any idea on price of the kit? Also is the palor in production? I never saw it listed on the site. Have a Cheddar 4-6-0 that would be great
Jason,
This car was a project started by Bruce with Alan of American Locomotion (I think thats the name). Alan will be doing some production runs as soon as Bruce finishes being the Test Dummy (I Say it with love Bruce, he he he). The price of the kit is around $400 (off the top of my head).
Hello all
The ET&WNC coach project is an unusual project for me in that I am the 4th designer that has had his hands on the drawings. I am not sure who all of the people are that had a hand in it over the years, but I was asked by Bruce to finish it and bring it to market.
It is a large car that required a lot of laser cutting and design tweaking. Currently the project sits at 9 sheets of styrene parts (in 4 thicknesses) plus 2 resin castings.
This is another first for me in that we are developing the prototype on line. Once completed, I will be looking at the other ET&WNC cars that may share a common body. The Azalea car was not done by me and from what I understand was a onetime cut in wood. It does have a similar body to the coach so it should not be too difficult to reproduce.
The next car scheduled to be developed for the ET&WNC with be the triple combine. I will be doing that car from scratch. Bruce and I will be designing that car complete; full interior, a new, very detailed, walk over seat design and a complete RPO section.
As Jake stated, the price of the coach project (gal 80 660) is currently sitting at the $400.00 mark less trucks and couplers.
If you have any specific questions about the project you can email me at [email protected]
Thanks for following the build and have a happy holiday.
Alan Great American Locomotion
www.thegalline.com
Back to work! There are end skins that first need to have window pieces added. The windows for the ends only have three pieces.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0590.JPG)
We’ll use the very skinny one to hold the glazing in, but that will be a bit later. First, I glue in the inner piece.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0591.JPG)
Then, I add the trim on top.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0592.JPG)
I found it easier to just use a drop on the front, and then applied most of the glue from the back. The vestibule doors consist of two pieces, an inner and an outer.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0593.JPG)
The tabs on the inner piece will allow it to be glued to the vestibule walls. If you wanted, you could cut them off and hinge the door. I’ll just glue mine. The main windows are a bit more involved. Each window is made up from 5 pieces; six if you count the glazing (which you need to provide)
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0595.JPG)
The outer side consists of trim, a .5mm piece, and a 1 mm piece. The inside consists of trim and a 1 mm piece. The inside 1 mm piece has two lines scribed on the side that faces the interior. If you remember, I’ve already glued the trim to the exterior skin. So next up, is to take the .5mm and 1 mm and glue them together, making sure that all the edges line up.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0600.JPG)
Then I turn it over and glue it into the skin. It’s held in place by the trim already there.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0601.JPG)
Notice that it does stick out a bit. This will help me to align the skin when I glue it in place on the side of the car. Here’s what it looks like from the outside.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0603.JPG)
Now, the skin is ready for painting. The inside pieces will be put in after they are painted and AFTER the exterior skin is in place. At that time, I’ll sandwich the glazing between the frames. But first, I need to glue the inside piece to the trim. Make sure that the scribed lines face the inside of the coach.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0598.JPG)
I found it easier to place the trim down first, then position the inside piece on it and apply the glue. This is shown in the above picture on the left. The picture on the right shows it turned over; you can just barely see the scribed lines. Next, I’ll paint these and then set them aside for later. There’s a total of twelve of these sets.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0599.JPG)
Wow! Thats Impressive!
Holy cow, what have I gotten myself into? This is impressive!
At least you’ll be busy over the winter…
I have to agree Bob. This is going to stretch my modeling abilities. I’m no Bruce but hopefully I can get it together.
Jake Smith said:Well, I really don't think any of you guys will have a problem; construction is pretty straight forward. The critical parts are all keyed, so it's hard to make a mistake. It helped me to dry fit the pieces together first, then clamp them, and then apply the glue.
I have to agree Bob. This is going to stretch my modeling abilities. I'm no Bruce but hopefully I can get it together.
The pictures I’ve posted should help, but the forum is a good place to discuss any difficulties. I’m also available via email or phone. Glad to help. Note that you may decide to approach assembly a bit differently; maybe even a different order, but the pieces will fit either way. 
My initial advice is to sand the parts well while they are on the sheet. They can break - but since they are styrene, they can be easily repaired. I know this for a fact. It is highly recommended to sand with WATER - it ends up much neater as far as dust on your workbench. Sanding not only removes the slight ridge from cutting, but also roughs up the styrene so the glue can weld the pieces together better.
For finer gluing, I highly recommend that THIN cement from Tamiya. The tiny brush really helps to apply this much neater than my pictures would indicate. The Testor’s cement with the giant brush is good for bigger areas. And when it comes to even larger areas - like putting the skin on the side, you might want an even larger brush.
The #17 and #18 blades make cutting out the parts a lot easier as opposed to using the old standard #11 blade. You just line up the blade in the cut opening and rock it over the uncut part, keeping everything in line and getting a nice clean cut.
Next up is the roof. There are a number of carlines that fit into notches on the car side.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0611.JPG)
When you place them in the notch, the carline should stick out a bit. (The production run will probably not have the notch for the extra stringers as they are not needed - the letter board will provide more than enough rigidity.)
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0613.JPG)
To make it easier, I TEMPORARILY clamped the notched letter boards to the side of the car. These help to hold the carlines in place. Note, no glue has yet been applied.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0615.JPG)
The carlines will be flush with the notched letterboard. Two stringers are supplied. These go along the top part of the carlines. I clamped these in place and then put the glue along the top stringer only.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0619.JPG)
I did one side at a time, letting the glue dry thoroughly before going to the next side. You may have a bit of a curve in the stringers; these will get straightened out when I glue the clerestory side in place. You’ll want to paint the clerestory side before you glue it in place. Before you do, you will probably want to glue the window trim pieces in place first.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0621.JPG)
I’m going to be plating my windows, just as I did for my parlor car. This will just be a styrene plate that will cover 2 or 3 of the windows with each plate.
Forget the kit, I can’t afford the clamps!
Looking really sweet!
Here is the seat design that I promised for the RPO project. It is a takeoff of the Hale and Kilburn walkover seats found in the ET&WNC RPO. These seats should prove to go together very easily. I will supply a jig for assembly. The seat will be quite sturdy in that the legs sides and seat base will be cut out of 3mm styrene. They are designed to be plugged into the deck of the car so there is no guesswork as to where the seats should go. They will be removable and the seat back will be position able. Test cuts of the seats are in the mail to me along with samples of a postal safe, desk and office chair, brackets for the framework used to hold mailbags for sorting and vertical sorting cabinets. I will have pictures next week. If you have any questions about the RPO project feel free to email me at [email protected]. Thanks for looking. Alan www.thegalline.com[
" border=“0” alt=“Photobucket”/>](http://s601.beta.photobucket.com/user/virgal211/media/HaleandKilburnseats2GREATAMERICANLOCOMOTION_zpsefcee1f2.jpg.html)
Dang. :o I forgot to glue the trim strip to the clerestory side BEFORE I painted it. Oops. :o There’s this very thin strip that acts as trim. Make sure you sand it before you cut it out, as it is delicate.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0628.JPG)
Of course you’ll need to sand the cut marks as well. It’s NOT glued in place here. I had to first scrape the paint off. 
The cast resin ends will nestle between the side pieces. I applied some E-6000 cement to glue the clerestory to the resin ends. I first clamp every the clerestory piece in place, before I apply any glue. This is the last opportunity to get the stringer that connects all the carlines perfectly straight. It’s pretty easy as long as you have enough clamps. You can use a roof skin as temporary spacer to insure that you get a close fit on the bottom edge of the clerestory piece. You want to make sure that the clerestory pieces follow the slope of the carlines, so you can have a smooth top roof.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/PassengerCars/CoachProject/IMG_0632.JPG)
Make sure you leave the right amount of space for the roof skin to go flush with the cast resin pieces. Once I have everything lined up and clamped in place, I apply my thin Tamiya cement. I’ll let this dry before I proceed with the roof skin. Any recommendations for a particular tape to cover the roof?
I used the sticky metal tape deal on my RPO.
Got any friction tape? I’ve always thought that would look good on roofs.
Where do you get that tape, Bob?
Bruce it’s the same stuff I used on the Superliners and Jerry Barnes has used …Buy the Natashu (spelling) brand True Value carries it in the heating section it’s for HVAC duct work
Bruce, check Home Depot. Look for the brand name Nashua. Most seem to think it’s the best. Home Depot has it on-line so they should carry it in most of their stores I would think,
Any idea how thick the tape is? I see McMaster-Carr has some that is .004" or .003" thick; I didn’t see any thickness for Nashua…
This page
http://tapes.berryplastics.com/SearchProductsDetails.aspx?ID=77
says 2 mils for the foil, 5 total. I dont have a battery for my micrometer, or I’d check a piece.