Large Scale Central

LGB 2018D Mogul - Cable From Cab to Tender Kaput

I am fishing for ideas here on improving my 2018D mogul (Nuernberg in Triple O service. Long story…). We had noticed “he” had started to stall on plastic frogs like or little 0-4-0s at speeds less than “all ahead flank.” I finally cracked open tender and boiler to see if something had become disconnected. Nope. I isolated the fault to the cable connecting the tender to the loco. It has a really curious three-pronged plug, that the 1:24 gang is holding up below:

Presumably, pins on the other side fit into those clamps. If I had to bet, the break is probably just on the other side of the pins. I wanted to run a “vector check” on the three solutions I see before plunking down time and cash:

  1. Replace the cable. Does this sort of ribbon cable even exist? Should I just get a modern cable (A cursory search showed four wire ribbons; presumably, I could just connect three.).
  2. Replace the circuit boards. Or should I order a modern circuit board from TrainLi and replace all the electronic “guts?” assuming that they have them?
  3. Use as an excuse to convert to R/C control and battery power. This loco has been a candidate for battery conversion, but, between waffling about systems and other expenses (food, mortgage, gas, stuff like that). This would be a huge commitment of resources with second order effects for the next year on what other projects we undertake. On the other hand, with one or two more locos getting the treatment, it would really open up operations or at least realistic switching. I could go with a magnetic critter controller, instead, and save on the R/C stuff and achieve some of these effects.

I appreciate your thoughts or alternative solutions. In the meantime, we’ll enjoy Nuernberg “as is.”


I have replaced the cable on four or five of those over the years. A female on the loco and a male on the tender. If you only need three wires, you can use what is called a “servo” motor cable.
Otherwise a 3 wire JST cable.



I have no opinion. All solutions sound viable - just depends how much work you want to do yourself.

I would definitely take the cable off (John B suggests there are connectors both ends) and see which wire has the break. As a quick-and-dirty solution, solder a new wire in parallel with the bad one! Or you may find it is just a bad solder joint that can be fixed.

Use as an excuse to convert to R/C control and battery power”.
DIng ding ding. I think we have a winner! :innocent:

John (@John_Bouck ), thanks, I had no idea what this cable was called. I’ll hunt around to see if I can source it locally.

Pete (@PeterT ), I inspected all the solder joints. They looked good. I also tried to apply power to the motor by jumping past the cable, so I am pretty sure that is the culprit.

Still mulling R/C…:slight_smile:


I’m all for supporting local business when you can. If a local RC Car/Plane hobby shop doesn’t have them, there are lots of choices on Amazon. The problem with Amazon is you probably need to buy 10 or more. At least the 10 on Amazon are usually less than a two pack at a hobby store. That’s assuming Amazon serves the islands.

If you go with the 3-wire servo cables, you can buy header pins that are spaced the same to make a male end connector. Headers usually come in 15 or more pins, but are easily cut.

The Servo comes in various lengths. I glue the female end solidly on the floor of the loco. And the male hanging out of the tender. I glue it so that the exposed points in the male face down when it is plugged in. This is so you know the orientation of the plug. It does have a tiny key slot for this very purpose, but visually is easier. I also have put a white dot on the male meaning “this side up”.
I use these on all my battery cars and have had no problems. People say the wire is too thin for high amps, but I have not had any heating or problems.
Got mine on Amazon.

These folks have never looked at the wire size used inside the locos. It’s usually pretty light!

I used to use the JST between 4 Aristocraft PA’s for MUing. Pulling 100+ freight cars.
Never had a problem. I used them on all my conversions.
Then a friend who runs Large scale DCC (Zimo) was using the servo type. They are smaller and the wires look better between the locos. I asked about problems, and he said none.
I now use the Servo’s exclusively.

The JST wire is regular wire, which can be stiff.
Servo’s use silicone coated wire, with finer copper strands. It’s very flexible.

JST cables are flowing…CINCHOUSE made an AMAZON order, and I piggybacked off of that.


Cool. But you didn’t say what CH will use her JST’s for…?

Oh, she’ll probably just give them to me or something… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Cables are on hand…Waiting for a good opportunity to install them!