Pete, then do what I do. Smile. Nod. Then change the subject.
Pete,
I understand most of it. But it’s a steep learning curve. And about the time u think I do get it then they throw a new twist in. So don’t feel bad and do what I do andake them explain it to you.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/17/Stub-Switches-Built-My-Way Devon I came across this article, not sure if you had seen it . I have a slow internet in this area so I didn’t wade thru your whole post to see if you mentioned it.
Yes Pete I have. Thanks though for sharing.
John mentioned the need to establish my back to back standard for my gaurd rails. That is the next step is getting the guard rails in place. I will be looking at the nmra and g1 specs as guidelines.
But with the issue of such radical geometry would I want tighter or looser tolerances to help negotiate the frog such a nasty turnout. It actually is running pretty smooth at this point
Check Greg E’s pages, the enema ray sometimes disagrees with our perceived realities…
Just enough to Prevent Picking the Point.
John
I have seen the argument for both standards and have both sets saved. And while I understand them there have to be somemgive and takes in this application. After playing with trucks and even my lil big hauler tender through this turnout so far I am in agreement that nit needs to be set no matter what such that it doesn’t pick the point. The gaurd rail on the curved side will be the important one. That’s where I am having an issue with picking. I assume when we are using that term we are referring to the wheel ridding up on to the frog point? If so this does happen if the truck is pulled to the inside of the curve. And since this will have truck mounted couplers I see the potential. So the gaurd rail will be essential to prevent this.
Devon Sinsley said:
After playing with trucks
I still play with them
almost 40yrs of it, David. still mostly enjoy it
picking the points means not following the direction set by the points, i.e. the wheels should follow the direction chosen, but maybe the points are not against the stock rail, gauge too tight, etc.
Not associated with the frog point, which is actually called the point of frog.
Greg
Well I meant the frog point, that’s why I made it singular… wheels that pick this point can ride up and off. Many trucks are rigid and might derail.
Your mileage may vary.
Besides there are no guard rails at the points! See why I didn’t trust bifurcate?
John
sorry john, I guess I never heard picking the point applied to the frog… it could be mild heat stroke…
but I was responding to Devon’s post not yours…
(waiting for rooster to post: heh heh heh he said bifurcate) (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Greg
Well I have no point rails to pick at least not in the traditional sense.
But I did understand then what John meant and it is an issue that needs to be addressed with the gaurd rails. And since I can make the truck do it means that it will do it so I need to.prevent it as best as I can.
I hope to get some progress done on the turnout. I finished up then set of trucks I was working on for Travis so now I can devote some time to the switch. I have given some consideration to the floping mechanism and I might just have a creative solution to.making the hardware. We will see.
Greg Elmassian said:
sorry john, I guess I never heard picking the point applied to the frog… it could be mild heat stroke…
but I was responding to Devon’s post not yours…
(waiting for rooster to post: heh heh heh he said bifurcate) (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Greg
Huh?
Devon’s post was in reply to mine, therefore your response was to both of us as we were conversing and you chirped in with nonsense about the movable points and no guard rails … at the other end of a non-stub type switch that had no bearing whatsoever!
Devon Won’t be picking the frog point either, once he sets his guard rails and back to back so that will be another place you won’t hear it…
Rooster makes funny comments …
John
Sigh… you are right, did not read back fur enuf…
somehow thought he had given up on the stub switch because no articulated swaybar… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
Devon;
You mention using the tender of your “L’ll Big Hauler” to go through your switch, and had its tender wheels picking the point of the frog.
Did you check the back-to-back spacing of those tender wheels, or were you just taking for granted that they would be in gauge ?
If in doubt, do you have an Aristo wheel/track gauge ? Although some may argue the accuracy of said gauge, it is a very handy tool, for the quick checking of rail gauge, and position of guard rails etc…also wheel gauge. It also has two bubble levels on it, for the measurement of elevations.
Since they are no-longer available, they may be hard to find…but some dealers may still have one or two in stock,
This would be a good tool for some supplier to put on the market again…
Fred Mills
The gauge (I have 2 of them) is remarkably close to NMRA specs, and I also endorse the use of it.
No admittedly I have not put any gauge what so ever on it. I have been using a ruler to check gauge. As this isn’t really the switch as it will be laid this is just me messing with design and ideas on how to make it work. And actually the little big hauler tender hand no issue picking the frog point it was an Aristo truck I had that was dong it. I have it “fixed” now with the addition of guard rails things run smooth.
Edited to say that when I go to laying these on permenant ties I will use a gauge. However it might have to be a gauge of my on making. I will set the wheel Back to Back on a test truck and then make the switch work for that truck then make a gauge to reproduce switches by. This isn’t going to play by the rules. It has to have to many compromises to get through the tight radius.
The next part was to do the movable stub rails. So I needed to hinge the rail. I had been told I believe by Pete or someone how to do it with rail joiners and a small machine screw. Well I didn’t have any rail joiners so I came up with this.
And it works like a charm. I used a 00-9 machine screw thrown the bottom and threaded the top rail segment of rail to receive it then CA glued the screw in (because I don’t have lock tite which I will use when I go into mass production). Here is the turnout mostly completed.
Ideally the stub rails probably should be much longer. but this is for an overly exaggerated compact layout so again compromises need to be made. This actually works very well and the rails slide over vary easily. As this sits it will be a nice working normal stub switch. I used the wire across the gap not only to hold my brass tie rod down but as stops for the rail. Works nice. For the real deal I will use a bit thicker tie bar. I need to come up with a throw for it.
Now the fun part begins. Making a working flop stub. I think the sway bar idea is going to work and I have thought on how to make the hardware. I think I can make it work.
I went back and brought up the G1MRA standards and actually hit them pretty well. The Aristo truck I am using was set perfectly to 40mm BtoB. In all but one spot my flangeways are 3mm. and my gauge is 45mm. And that is on just this design phase. So I am pretty sure I can set up a gauge or get one and it will work even on the humble little toy stub Switch.
And best part Greg is that it is not flange bearing. . . (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Devon, get an inexpensive digital caliper (metal) from Harbor Freight. Much easier to measure than a ruler, and more precise and repeatable.
I’m curious why you wanted to hinge the rails with an abrupt transition, rather than just flex the rail?
Greg