Thanks Bill. I actually completely forgot about it until your build reminded me of it.
day 14 and 15
yesterday was a bust, rained and blew like the devil and the high was 54 degrees, I know the people up north are saying “poor baby” but the dampness down here is something else, our 50 is your 20. But today it cleared up around 1:00 PM and was able to get the base of the unit cut and I used 3/4" pvc lumber from Lowes, also got the window glazing for the front door, takeout window and the kitchen door cut and installed. just now after the drying and setting of the glaze got all 3 glued into the diner body. Also go a base coat on the base pvc part and will try my bromley brick stencil on it, till tomorrow, Bill
day 16
Beautiful day today in the high 60ths and no rail. got the base for the diner painted. First painted it with gray primer and then secured the Bromley brick stencil to it and painted it with red oxide primer, very pleased with the results the steps are from old playmobil. Had done something very similar several years ago only used magic brick stencil which came in a roll that you pealed the bricks off leaving just the motor joints, used it on a 3 stall scankit engine house. It was much easier to use but is no longer available in 1/2". This stencil seems to be very robust and will probably be used several more times. Suppose to get cold and rainy again so tomorrow I will probably get the windows in and start on the interior.
Dang Bill, that is looking really good!!
Bill,
Is the texture on the brick just that of the cut foam? It looks really good.
, Bill, you and the stencil did a great job on the brick. And Devon is correct about the texture, it look good. Mik would have been proud of your display stand.
The base is a piece of PVC board from Lowes I believe it is part of a 1 x 8 x 1/2" and although it is Pvc it is a little porous like foam, I also used it on my base for my small station but used the grained side up then.
I know the stuff you are talking about well. Most of my bench work is made out of it and have started using it in building. Now I have a whole new use for it. Textured brick. Now I want to resaw it and see if I can get a thinner (1/4") and wider (5 1/2) piece with the same texture. I would assume that inside “texture” is not directional. Thanks Bill. I love learning new techniques.
Devon Sinsley said:
I know the stuff you are talking about well. Most of my bench work is made out of it and have started using it in building. Now I have a whole new use for it. Textured brick. Now I want to resaw it and see if I can get a thinner (1/4") and wider (5 1/2) piece with the same texture. I would assume that inside “texture” is not directional. Thanks Bill. I love learning new techniques.
Devon, the only thing is that when you saw it the cut part is real porous, I ripped some for the legs on my water tower and it wasn’t even good enough to tap for screws. I did find PVC sheets at home depot though that you can get in 1/4" sheets and is only about $15.00 for a 2 x 4 sheet, Bill
Wow, that’s coming along great. Your roof crazing reminds me of my Monday Night Panic when the rattlecan paint I was using crazed on application. In my case I’m pretty sure it was due to it being too cold and not a thin enough layer. Luckily I was able to sand off the small area it happened. If I ever get my outdoor layout going again I want to add a diner like this, so I will be referencing this technic down the road somewhere.
I understand what you are saying about the porosity. I have already been cutting a little bit of it for RR grade crossings. I think it is exactly that porosity that will give it the “texture” for the brick. I am making an assumption that your painted bricks are on the end grain of those boards and the porosity is what is giving it the texture I am seeing on the end of this base.
yes that is what it is of course I only cur 3 sides so 1 is smooth but the primer is ruff
I just think that cut side looks remarkably like real brick. Real brick is rough and porous and your bricks have the perfect look. If the same look could be achieved by resawing the boards (making them thinner) then you could get a much wider “wall” of brick. Something to play with. The only downside to cutting this stuff is dang its messy.
Devon Sinsley said:
I just think that cut side looks remarkably like real brick. Real brick is rough and porous and your bricks have the perfect look. If the same look could be achieved by resawing the boards (making them thinner) then you could get a much wider “wall” of brick. Something to play with. The only downside to cutting this stuff is dang its messy.
found using textured krylon spray paint gives it a pretty good textured look, but it’s not cheep and considering the 10’ rule it’s something that needs to show up.
The textured paint is a great idea. I had seen other things done such as primer then apply sand over the top to get texture. But that stuff would be a lot easier and would show up nice using the 10 foot rule.
Looking really good, Bill!
That looks really cool!.. Keep up the good work…
Day 19, I think, didn’t get much done the last 2 days, just too cold, got started yesterday on the serving counter with foot rest
and today I finished it also made a prototype of my stool which I think I will use, weather better today and hopefully tomorrow
It looks as if you used a wood button type plug on top of the golf tee for the padded seat, is that what I am seeing? Whatever you did it looks great. And the counter came out very nice.
Nice job on the stool and counter.