AM-Critter....Kid-zilla goes freelance

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

Last week, Kid-zilla practiced for this project by swapping out the motor of 1980-s vintage LGB m2075 (Big Thomas in Triple O service).

There has been also serious but undocumented tinkering on Diesel Dan, his PIKO Clean Machine.

Later, a bit-box from John (@John_Bouck ) arrived with enough parts to to combine with bits on hand to refurbish yet another B’mann 10-wheeler…

…but Kid-zilla held firm to his purpose. He has declared that, the number being 10, this 10-wheeler will come together in Year 10 of the Reign of Kid-zilla. Staying true to his purpose, he waited, until, lo!

…the motorblock and sideframes arrived from USA Trains!

We dug out the balsa blocks, he selected a cab, and he has been studying critter pictures. I told him no cutting until after he shows me his plans. He also noted there is no obvious way to mount either the sideframes or the to-be-made cab and engine compartment to the motorblock. Let’s see what he comes up with!

My role will be to maintain safety, to ensure progress, and to prevent catastrophic failure. Otherwise, the ball is in his court!

Eric

[Rooster]

@Eric_Mueller

He also noted there is no obvious way to mount either the sideframes or the to-be-made cab and engine compartment to the motorblock.

Eric

I wondered about that and I am 99.999% sure I can help out with that only “if you wish”.
I would honestly prefer to offer some basic things I (should) have in stock so he doesn’t get frustrated with a simple resolution to his query. Email me if interested that way I can remember and stay on top of it.

[Eric_Mueller]

Rooster,

Thanks. That would be consistent with avoiding “catastrophic failure.” I’ll drop an email later.

Eric

[Rooster]

Just thinking out loud

[Dave_Meashey (David Meashey)]

Eric;

Freelance is fun. The G&NB Fast mail below is a ducted fan drive married to a one-liter seltzer bottle with ball bearing wheels to glide on. (Kinda’ like a combination of Casey Jones meets Flash Gordon!) I still have never had enough straight track to find out how fast it will go.

Best, David Meashey

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

@Rooster , the bits arrived! Your thinking out loud was quite prescient! I will let Kid-zilla ideate a bit on his way forward, then post his plans. There will be some challenges, as this will be a true kitbash and not a “resto-mod.” I think he’s up to it…if he doesn’t get distracted by @John_Bouck 's 10-wheeler parts, first!

Eric

[Eric_Mueller]

And so it begins…

Kid-zilla captured the 1:24 gang pushing this unlikely derelict into the shops at Pu’uoma’o…

With the old ALCO safely in the engine shed, he and I had a good chat…track or battery powered (He could ask for a battery for Christmas)? How does power get from the tracks / battery to the motor? Would there be an external fuel tank? What about horns, bells, and exhaust stacks? How did he want to close off the back?

He was a bit dubious about my contention that real railroad often mixed and matched parts to get what they needed to fit an economic need. We had discussed this and looked at numerous pictures of “critters” when he decided to undertake this project. Luckily, and older congregant at church worked the SOUTHERN at a time when senior engineers still had hours under steam. He confirmed what the pictures showed…if a railroad needed it, and if it had the parts, it built it!

Next weekend, we will tinker with getting this shell to run on its NW-2 motor block. That’ll involve some temporary jumpers, I am sure. The goal will be to fully understand how the power needs to flow, so he can start thinking about lights, “diesel exhaust” (smoke fluid), and, if he wants it, a critter controller. I have set a soft goal to have the rough outlines of the AM-critter up and working by Halloween, which should help him come up with a parts list just in time to guide relatives’ looking to get him a Christmas gift or two!

For now, AM-critter awaits Kid-zilla’s creative touch, and Kid-zilla is already dreaming about a string up-cycled B’mann coaches redone in silver…

On behalf of Kid-zilla,
Eric

[Rooster]

Edited:

Shut up Rooster and let the boy work.

A little inspiration and only throwing in some inspiration for the boy to think outside of the box. The 2026 Freedom Train CERTAINLY could be in Amtrak livery and shortened.

https://www.freedomtrain.org/freedom-train-consist-1-pa1-locomotive-1776.htm

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

OK, soccer, school, Dad’s Taxi, work, etc. have really put a crimp on all our projects.

Kid-zilla did undertake the project to get power to the motor block, opening it up, and discovering bus bars that ran from the pickup points and buses that ran from the motor tab. He assumed (as did I) that jumping across these buses would bring the motor to life:

Nope. His text aside, this did not make it run. Here’s a picture without the text box:

I am not sure what we are missing here. We’ll hit it again this weekend.

Eric

[Eric_Mueller]

@Rooster

A little inspiration and only throwing in some inspiration for the boy to think outside of the box. The 2026 Freedom Train CERTAINLY could be in Amtrak livery and shortened.

Ooops…I missed this post. I’ll show it to him tomorrow. I want him to get the shell up and running first, as I think seeing it in motion will kickstart the program a bit.

Oh, and, yes, the eagle is reminiscent of the eagle worn on WWII era German uniforms. I can see why management was dubious about it!

Eric

[David_Marconi_FOGCH (David Marconi CHHNNG)]

@Eric_Mueller

How did he want to close off the back?

To me KZ, This is the perfect time to upgrade your modeling skills. We have all gone through learning/honing processes to get where we are so do not get discouraged while you go.
1, Stand the shell up on it’s end and trace around. Remember that the line will add about 1/16th of an inch to the piece and cut outside the line but close to it. This can be an 1/8th inch thick and can be foam core PVC sheet for your first try. Even this will hold for the final use and will hold up for years.
2. Tape this piece to the back of the shell, leave the tape 1/2" above the bottom of the shell, and 1/2" below top dead center of the roof line.
3. Carefully file the blank to flush on both bottom corners of the shell. Do this slowly and check often by rubbing your finger across the joint till you feel no line of joint there.
4. Do the same at the top following the curve of the roof, for now you just need to get the top inch or so smooth. Do not over do the filling, and if you err, start with a new piece.
5. Before you remove the tape mark a line from front to back across the joint of the filed areas. These are pencil or very fine marker. Important, use one stroke to make each line . the line that crosses the joint from shell to blank are witness marks. the main idea is you will use these as you test along the way.
6. turn the shell onto its roof with the rear blank over the edge of your work surface hanging in air. Place a flat ruler or stiff piece of plastic across the shell gently touching the blank and mark the blank on both sides of the shell. For this I use a knife to mark just the blank for a most accurate point .
7 Remove the blank from the shell ans with a knife and straight edge connect the two marks you just made from side to side. Repeat this with light multiple strokes until you cut through the blank. This will now be your modeling line when cut through and smooth.
8. using your ruler, from corner to corner of the bottom edge you just made find center of the edge and again with pencil make one mark on the blank.
9. Hold a square against the bottom edge of the blank at your new mark and use a knife gently to get a mark of center from bottom to top of your blank. This will need to be erased with sanding in a bit so the lighter the mark the easier to erase. You can do this as your skills have already shown us, so trust yourself it will seem a breeze if you trust.
10. Now measure a door on another one of your diesels normally 3 scale feet. Use you measurement to get your door centered on your blank. half of the size on each of your center line. make these marks with a knife. One set at the bottom edge, and one set 3" up from bottom. These will be used to mark your height lines.
11. Measure the height of your other diesel door. Using a square,measure the height
you just learned up from the bottom of your blank on each side of your center line, put a mark at 6 scale inches up from the bottom, and then put your top mark at the measurement you found for you door height. Use a knife and square and scribe a line from your bottom mark to your top mark on each side of center,. I scribe using the back edge of my knife edge.
12. Now use a straight edge and connect both 6" high marks and both door height marks together making a rectangle on your blank.
13. Take a break and pat yourself on the back, get a few atta boys from the clan and relax with your favorite beverage as you and Dad talk railroad.
14. Use 4 to 6 inch square stock plastic for a frame. Start with one piece along the bottom edge of your blank between your two door side marks.Glue this on flush with your bottom edge.
15.Next cut two pieces to fit from your bottom blank edge to your top height marks. measure one side and make both side strips the same length.Use your square on the outside edge of each strip to keep the pieces along the mark you etched and glue them to your blank.
16. Now you need to cap your work. measure and cut your top strip to sit on the top of your two side uprights. You now have your door opening area. Not quite done though, we will now add to your skill set.
17. I do this with a drill bit that is fairly large to get rid of a good bit of the unneeded door area. Drill three holes through the blank inside of the door frame you just made.
18. Use your knife and connect the holes you drilled cutting through the plastic to get rid of the plug. Now start filing from each side of the open area out to the edges of your door frame. Yes you could use a knife to go a bit faster by paring away the plastic to get to the frame, but for this one the filing is safer against the chance of cutting into your frame and having to start over.
19. As you get close to the frame inside edge file from the backside of the plug to get this seam flush just like filing the outside edges of your blank flush with your shell.
20. The above all finished take a piece of plastic, same as the blank and cut a piece that fits over your door frame… Turn your blank over and placing the new piece flush with the bottom edge of the blank glue it in place to cover the door opening you just made A square helps keep it straight as you glue it in place.
21. Using your witness marks and bottom corners glue your blank onto the rear of the shell. Might want to use a flat piece of steel to hold to the bottom of the shell and set the blank on that to keep the bottom edge true as you glue. Set aside for a few days for the glue to set. After the glue has set file the edges of the blank flush with the shell all the way around the body. And erase the little bit of center line just above the door frame you made.
You can add detail to this but your basic end is ready for the Palm of painting.
Great job I knew you had it in you

[Rooster]

I’m not sure why your jumper didn’t work. The inner pins are for the track pickups and the outer pins are for the motor block.

As for closing off the back. Thoroughly go through the box that was sent. READ the notes (basic guidance) written on the PVC board and stryene enclosed. Also look closely at the 2 heavyweight car ends that were enclosed.

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

First, @David_Marconi_FOGCH , thanks for the detailed way forward. For now, I have Kid-zilla focusing on the mechanical part of the AM-Critter. I figured if he can get it rolling, it will keep him rolling! I also don’t want to get in a situation where he has built everything only to find some internal issue isn’t quite right. That is always demoralizing. I figure closing the back will be the first major step prior to paint and external details. Oh, and yes, @Rooster , we have the card ends and PVC board.

Second, the motor block confounded us for a bit. Those jumpers should have worked. Kid-zilla began by opening up the block…

…and inspecting the internals.

We even tested the motor. No worries. We saw no bent bus bars or loose solder joints. Kid-zilla hit upon the idea that you had to jump from port to starboard across the block. I didn’t think it mattered, but, what the heck, and lo! it worked! Strange…For kicks, we removed the motor, inverted it, reinserted it, and replaced our jumpers. Turned right over. Weird…There is a reason I barely passed electrical engineering eons ago.

Next came the all-important on-track test.

He noted that the drivers spun on the rails, and he quickly deduced it needed more weight, but how much? He grabbed a B’mann 4-6-0 weight (Thanks, @John_Bouck !), removed the motor, and tried again.

Success! Next, of course, came a partial reassembly to see this thing roll (video)!

The following day we were off to the hardware store for some nylon washers to properly mount the weight and the trucks. This required a full disassembly.

I should add we also got the requisite aluminum paint!

We got a couple extra washers to see how AM-Critter sits on the rails. One washer gave the following results:

Two washers looked sort of silly to Kid-zilla, as the cab rode high above the motor blocks, so a bit of filing is in his future!

He can file with the best of them. I did tell him he has to think about how to add couplers so that AM-Critter serves an economic purpose. One hurdle at a time!

On Behalf of Kid-zilla.
Eric

P.S. My role remains one of safety and the prevention of catastrophic failure. Most of the troubleshooting and solution generation is his.

[Rooster]

@Eric_Mueller

Success! Next, of course, came a partial reassembly to see this thing roll (**[video]

Excellent work and learning experience with the motor block! I personally would recommend putting the power truck in the rear.

[Rooster]

@Rooster

Just thinking out loud

1/8" PVC board ( included in box with enough for mistakes )^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Gotta have cross drilled rotors !!!

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

I shared the recent idea generation posts. They did little to alleviate a bit of sulkiness that someone had to disassemble AM-Critter to reverse those trucks. We got that done today. Someone was just as sulky to find he had to move the weight back over the powered truck. He made preparations to do that today, too.

Meanwhile, he has been slowly shaping the front of the body to clear the rails. I talked to him about the couplers. He nodded. I talked to him about closing up the back. He nodded. I reminded myself “His project!” My better self nodded…

Updates as progress merits!

On Behalf of Kid-zilla,
Eric

[Rooster]

Mr. Mueller and Mr. Mueller spawn,

When you boys are finished with the pouting and headbutting may I ask you gentlemen to both have a peek at my recent addition to an “Amtrak Bashing” thread ".

I would like you to note that I am currently using and primarily have used the same materials you received in a modeling care package and they can and will work very well.

Just think simple and “take your time”. No need to rush as Rome was not built in a day.

[Eric_Mueller]

Update:

OK, we took @Rooster 's advice, took a deep breath, and reviewed his AMTRAK Bashing thread. I set a goal this weekend to get the couplers set up, but first we had to make space on the lanai. There were any number of almost finished, not really started, and where-were-we projects on the table between trains, rockets, planes, Halloween costumes, and stuff. All excellent, but it was time to finish some things, clear some parts, and focus on the main effort - AM-Critter!

I did think it was important to get some “wins” on the board, so we repaired Diesel Dan and swapped out Bumble Bee’s bottom plate to allow for a stock pilot (Still grinds as it rolls, but at least it doesn’t derail! We’ll putter with the homemade pilot later…maybe…).

In between this activity, I caught him modifying the shell interior to allow the weight to center over the powered driver.

His plan, his execution, his success!

Flush with victory, we took a pair of hook-and-loops from the bit-box, and had a good “think.” I noted a little screw on the back of the USA Trains motor block. He rifled through my box of leftover home improvement doodads, and he found a picture hangar. I bent it to an “L” for him…

…and he set-to with a DREMEL to enlarge the holes to accommodate the various screws.

We laid a quick test track, and, after he corrected for installing the “L” bracket upside down, mounted the coupler…

…and tested his rig.

He had to put the shell back on to better picture the finished product.

He wants to explore using a long bolt to hold the forward coupler in place. I am suggesting we go with Roster’s donated PVC boards. His project, and, he has been right before. Next Saturday is coming, and we’ll see what he comes up with by then

Looking ahead, we have to figure out how to light the interior and power the smoke generator. Kid-zilla correctly noted we could run power off the tabs we used to jump from the power intake to the motor. I have a bunch of 7mm LEDs sitting around, but I know 24V DC will fry them. I have a slew of random resistor I could solder in place; alternatively, I have some LGB headlamp bulbs ready-to-hand. The smoke generator? No clue…

On behalf of Kid-zilla,

Eric

[Don_Howard]

To use a Navy term I learned while serving '63-'66:

OUTSTANDING

[Rooster]

@Eric_Mueller

I have a slew of random resistor I could solder in place

Not optimum however just about the perfect number that is very forgiving with LEDs.