Todd Haskins said:
Those rivets look like a real pain in the butt.
I think the green on the far right would be closest to the sack colour.
I think the green on the far right is the closest to the feed sack as well. I’m debating if I want to go one shade lighter to begin with as preweathered or just shot the darker green and then weather to lighten the color.
Craig Townsend said:
Todd Haskins said:
Those rivets look like a real pain in the butt.
I think the green on the far right would be closest to the sack colour.
I think the green on the far right is the closest to the feed sack as well. I’m debating if I want to go one shade lighter to begin with as preweathered or just shot the darker green and then weather to lighten the color.
I agree with both of you, except that the sack is more a bluish green, but the one on the far right looks better than the sack, I think, no matter what, for the truck. I’m thinking any imperfections in the rivetting will be unnoticeable once you get it colored up.
It’s looking good no matter how you slice it.
Once it’s weathered any imperfections will be unnoticed. I’m actually guessing at the color as I have no clue but considering two sources of information show green and red, I’m guess that’s a distinct possibility.
John Passaro said:
Craig Townsend said:
Todd Haskins said:
Those rivets look like a real pain in the bu.
I’m thinking any imperfections in the rivetting will be unnoticeable once you get it colored up.
John do you realize who you are talking about, he is badgering a old retired feed mill guy for information !!! LOL I do believe Craig is one of the great modelers here on LSC, , I make fun only because I admire his commitment to making it museum quality or not at all!
Craig I am kidding , but I see nothing wrong with the rivets on that feed tank!
It’s looking good no matter how you slice it.
I think you should paint it pink. I hear its all the rage.
@Craig T. and anyone else…
Stoped at our local Tandy Leather shop and bought a bottle of the Black Leather Dye, to use for a wash… The question is… What dilution rate of dye to alcohol? And what type of Alcohol can I or should I use? Denatured, or Isopropyl ( and which strength ?)
Dave,
I used regular off the shelf cheap vodka…No wait it was 70% ISO. I’m pretty sure anything will work to thin the leather dye. Obviously the stronger you want it, the less alcohol you add. I even dipped wood in full strength.
This is much better on round two.
Looks great, Craig!
Here we see the truck returning to it’s natural naked state…
I’m disappointed no comments after the last photo dump…
Wasn’t sure what I should say. Was this a good thing or a bad thing? (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Rick Marty said:
Wasn’t sure what I should say. Was this a good thing or a bad thing? (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Well I’m not sure either…
None of my previous attempts to prevent decal silvering worked so I figured it was time to start fresh again. I thought a layer of paint would help but nope.
Tonight begins a detour to experiment more.
If I wasn’t such a anal modeler this stuff wouldn’t bother me, right?
Well, I am sure you know this but silvering is usually caused by not a slick enough surface. I always spray gloss or at least satin before decal application then blend them in with gloss clear than flat clear then weathering. I am probably preaching to the choir but maybe this may help???
Rick,
That’s what’s annoying me is the fact that I did lay them on a gloss coat and they still silvered.
Okay, I think I’m missing something here. What is silvering? I thought the rivets looked great, very even and convincing, in the last picture and figured once you painted them over everything would be fine. Forgive my denseness, but I haven’t touched a decal since my miserable failures as an eight-year-old attempting decals on a model race car.
Craig, how about paint dry time, are you letting the paint set long enough to totally out gas? If not this can cause a problem.
Sorry, but I am with John P. here. What is “silvering?” I used to build 1:32 armor, and I just don’t recall the term.
Silvering is when the decal film never completely “bonds” with the surface the decal is applied to. What happens normally is you can see the decal film. This is normally noticable when certain light angles hit the model.
In my case even on the second round, the decals silvered and was really noticable after I applied the final paint color.
In this cause, I either didn’t get glossy enough surface or as Rick pointed out the paint ( gloss coat) hadn’t cured long enough.
Because I can’t leave something alone until I figure it out…
I created a test bed of a various gloss and matte clear coats I had on hand. Once the decals dry overnight, I will apply the “best” gloss coating over all of them and see what happens. I’ve been meaning to do this experiment for a while now but now I have the motivation. I might end up doing a round 2 after the MIK build using regular decals. I think I’m already starting to see a clear winner.
