Large Scale Central

What about other printers ?

So , there in the latest Railway Modeller (a British publication as brainy people may tell from the title) , there is an article about “Computer Aided Cutting” , basically a printer that cuts outlines out of sheet material or half cuts or scribes into slightly heavier stuff and even metals .

At about $180 for a basic one or $400 for a better one (it cuts to a larger size) it seems like a good idea .

I have not fully read the article (my lips don’t move very fast) but the general idea seems fine . So , anyone here any experience with them ?

Mike

Two weeks ago I purchased a Silhouette Cameo, and played with it a little. Its basically a computer directed cutter. Supposed to cut about .015 styrene, but I dont have any handy. It does scribe .030 nicely, so Im thinking for scribed boxcar sides it would be good. Ive cut out some vinyl for car lettering, and working on a stencil for painting the name on the side of the colliery. For around $200, its not bad.

Bob , the Silhouette Cameo is the larger one of the two I mentioned , and now I’ve read the article more thoroughly , I’ve started to get very tempted .

In the article , the bloke is cutting layers of silhouettes to make those multi-layer coach sides so beloved by British rail companies . They come out really well .

Oddly enough , when I was reading about it I thought “that would be an ideal machine for Bob’s Coal Plant window frames” . It seems that the machine cuts up to 20thou plastic , layering that would give a super window profile . It would even be possible to put the glass between the layers .

I must make enquiries , and give my tribe hints about Christmas .

Mike

Here’s my first results. I didnt spend much time cleaning up the logo, so it has a few warts, but it came out ok.

(http://i.imgur.com/pvOatkDl.png?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/RH0uoKJl.png)

Gee, that’s sure easier then hand painting.

GR June 2007

Vinyl lettering for your rolling stock - An in-depth look at current technology
by Del Tapparo

For the lady of the house, who has a husband who just needs even more embroidered patches on his vests, hats, t-shirts and whatever, there are the computerized home embroidery machines from Brother and other suppliers.

That looks OK to me Bob , but maybe my eyes are getting old . ( I suppose I should add a ‘wink’ there)

I have to ask , was that actually vinyl lettering or did you cut masking film ? The masking film was one of the things I thought of first ; while I have nothing against vinyl lettering (I use it myself) it does not always conform to the surface like paint does .

Mike

Thats vinyl lettering. I have a couple stencils Im designing, but none of them are quite ready yet.

I cleaned up this file this morning, and just cut it while at lunch. These are the graphics for part of the model board for the RR.

(http://i.imgur.com/s8jbrF0l.jpg?1)

Mike Morgan said:

That looks OK to me Bob , but maybe my eyes are getting old . ( I suppose I should add a ‘wink’ there)

I have to ask , was that actually vinyl lettering or did you cut masking film ? The masking film was one of the things I thought of first ; while I have nothing against vinyl lettering (I use it myself) it does not always conform to the surface like paint does .

Mike

Mike, that’s one of the reasons I hand paint my lettering. Paint conforms to the model, it isn’t too thick, and I think it looks good when done properly.

Bob , thanks , I can see it now .

That example you show is really good and shows what can be achieved .

Good to hear you’re going to try stencils , the art of painting direct on the surface is definitely the best , but the vinyl lettering can be quite , how should I say , unobtrusive? That is , it can be thin enough not to stand out showing its edges . I must get a photo of a truck my son is working on , he did the stencil patterns and had the vinyl cut by a local printer . They are very good .

I do feel that the stencil thing is the way to go , as David implied , paint hugs the surface , vinyl will not conform easily over rivets (which means they can’t be counted) . Application of gentle heat helps it to conform , but like any heat application , has to be used carefully .

Interesting stuff , all this colouring game .

Mike

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/mike_m/P1012725.JPG)nyl lettering

I have no idea why the picture above came out so big , I followed the instructions that I used for previous photos

Now I find I cannot erase it in “edit”

Mike

Trying again

Bugger .

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/mike_m/P1012726.JPG)

ya need to down size it a wee bit, Micheal…

(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2014/P1012725a.jpg)

Ats a funny lookin train.

:wink:

David Maynard said:

Ats a funny lookin train.

:wink:

It’s the locomotive from a South American Road-Train.

Ken , thanks for your help . Would you like to downsize the other ?

The idea was to try to show

  1. high quality modelling

  2. the use of vinyl lettering

It was also to promote wisecracks from one who should know better and one who knows no better .

My son made the model , which is not quite finished , and he lettered it with vinyl lettering produced on a 2D machine locally by a very friendly printer who was interested to see what it was ; he had told Martyn , my son , that if he took it back and showed the result , he’d do the lettering for freeeee!!!

So he did , the bloke took photos (probably better than mine) and Martyn now has a friend who can advise him about printing and cutting things . Martyn wants some masking done , so that’s the next item .

The prototype for the model , as all who have travelled the world will know , is owned by a South American Company and it runs over terrain not suited to any trains , let alone a road train .

It’s 1/14 scale and has full radio control over forward/reverse & gear changing , engine sound that includes starting and is synchronised to speed , air tank hisses for brakes and gear change ; directional indicators , air horn sound , head tail and brake lights , reversing lamps and bleeper . If you want one fully finished as per the photo , it will cost you about $1500 for parts and paint . The know-how comes expensive so these models can change hands for about $3000 , usually to companies for advertising (and driving round the showroom)

I think the model is not a bad effort for someone trying to recover from chemotherapy .

Mike

Mike Morgan said:

Ken , thanks for your help . Would you like to downsize the other ?

I think I can do that:

Ken , thank you , that’s really kind .

I just cannot seem to get it right when trying to post pictures , so I’ll have to either stop or get taught how , I can’t keep bothering others like yourself . I know you don’t mind doing it , but there has to be a limit .

cheers ,

Mike

So , thanks to Ken , you can see how gloss the finish is , this was achieved with car polish over an already excellent paint finish ; the polish also went over the vinyl letters , giving an indication of how well they cling to the model .The paint was from rattle cans .

We have found that vinyl letters down to 1/8" are possible , but a lot of patience and experience is required .

Thus it seems that there is a place in our hobby for these machines . It will be interesting to see what Bob manages to achieve .

Mike