Large Scale Central

V&T Ore Car Project

No, her club meets in some rented place. But even if they did come over, I don’t think they’d register what they were looking at. It would be “a train.” :stuck_out_tongue:

But since you raise the point…

If I’m concerned about opinions, it would be those of my betters in the V&T RR Historical Society… This ore car is sort of an emblem for the V&T, and I’m not aware of anyone who’s modeled it in detail. That’s why I spent so much time in research and debating with the knowledgeable ones, and am taking pains to model it as well as I can.

Cliff you are a Suck up :kissing:

They look a little stiffer than the last time I saw them, keep up the great work

Pretty cool!

I will take a set of twenty Cliff. Let me know when you got them ready for shipment.
:blush:

If you want to impress the society model them in 1:1 scale

He’ll need a bigger 3d printer…

I wish I could, haha!!

But… I’d have to get into the differences in rivets between them, because of differing batches of manufacture, and individual accidents (and tailored patchings-up)… so, no, I think smaller scale and therefore less detail is my friend at this point.

Even so, if I could, I would… and you probably know that. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

FWIW, I got the Vevor metal shear from Aliexpress and saved a few bucks.

1 Like

Huh. Now for some reason I need another tool. I’m running out of room in my shop for all the toys I’m eyeing eventually.

Be interesting to see how thin of strips you can make.

So, perhaps you should concern yourself with how the historical society feels about the use of E6000 glue.

The pre-staining with vinegar and dissolved steel turned out much darker than I’d wanted or expected… and dang, I didn’t take a photo. But after trying out different dilutions of stain on it, I felt better.

This afternoon i got the stain on. This was Cabot “redwood” colored semi-solid deck stain, same stuff I’m using on my trestles. But here, diluted with water 1:1 to let the grain show better.

I like the randomness of coverage, because different cars had differing maintenance done on them, like some needing their side sills or other timbers replaced. Different batches of manufacture meant different conditions of paint, though I’m going for an older look for all of them.

So, can’t complain.

Cliff,
You can breakup the consistency of color with a little lightly applied sand paper in more exposed areas.
Just a thought.

Cliff were you able to procure your metal shear before your tarrifs came into effect?

Bill, I guess so; the price was (and still is) pretty cheap for my location. But it says it ships from the US, so maybe its from older pre-tariff stock.

I put an abrasive wheel into the mini table saw, and wow it cut the brass so easily. After improving my table saw sled for less slop in the grooves, I’m getting fast and accurate rod cuts, and I’m really happy about that.

Got all the axles cut & deburred, and then the truss rods, which also got sanded, blackened and inserted.

I’m doing this while re-re-re-re-[you get the idea]-printing the journals. I’ve finally got a workable printing orientation and support placement so that nothing’s skewed in the print, and post-print filing / sanding is minimal.

Cheers,
Cliff

I’m sure the V&T were quite concerned with the proper “stain” color back in the day in the hood. So kudos on keeping the model historically correct!

Here and there through last week I’ve been prepping the printed parts, starting with lots of drilling holes to final diameters for journals, couplers, etc., and a seemingly unending series of episodes with weathering powder & light flat clear coat. Here’s the fasteners.

Everything needed a flat clear coat to dull the shiny print, and help the powder to stick. After that, the clear coat pretty much disappears the powder, so I had to put it on heavy, spray, and do a second coat.


After that, I got back into shearing, this time with .025 sheet from Amazon. Larger sheets I propped up from the rear of the shear with 1-2-3 blocks.

In front, an aluminum bar is set to (in this case) .188". I used a strip of 3/16" styrene stock to gauge that gap, since there wasn’t an easy way to measure it.

The material wanted to twist some, so I held the edge with a scrap of aluminum 1/8" angle, and put pressure on that with one hand while working the shear with the other.

Seemed to work well enough.

These strips are for the journal straps. The next step is to bend them, and Al suggested using a form. I don’t have a mill to make one out of aluminum (which you could really put the pressure on), so I made the tool out of acrylic.

One part makes the inside bends first, then the other one makes the outside. The bends aren’t as sharp as I’d like, but I think I can manually improve that.

A final (printed) part on the same tool base will be used for drilling.

These straps will probably take me all day tomorrow, but hopefully I’ll get into some chassis assembly Monday, we’ll see.

Cheers,
Cliff

2 Likes

Come on Cliff can’t you build a model of something a bit more complex ?

1 Like

Well heck. I tried coming up with bent straps like that for the logging disconnect project that stalled years ago. I knew I wanted to make a die lie that, but couldn’t come up with a method to make the die. Did you laser cut the acrylic?

Yep, layers of .18 acrylic, glued & pinned. I’m hesitant to put too much pressure on it to get the bends sharper, but it seems to get the main forming done.

I suppose hardwood blocks would be fine, but I’m not sure how I’d make them.

1 Like