V&T Derrick 50

Cliff_Jennings · July 8, 2019, 9:30pm

Bill Barnwell said:

Cliff, beautiful piece of work, I would like to know how you rust your parts and hex head bolts and/or screw type/size and where to get, thanks, Bill

Thanks Bill, I really appreciate it. The brass parts (rod, tube, screws) are all just wetted with Jax “pewter” blackener. You brush it on and the brass quickly reacts. It’s easily scratched off; but the whole car will get a matte clear coat at the end which should preserve the black.

Almost all of the hex bolts are from Microfasteners. I got a couple bags of 100 of their #0 x 1/4", and also some washers.

http://www.microfasteners.com/self-tapping-sheet-metal-and-wood-screws-hex-head-lag-screws-brass.html

The reddishness on the wood parts comes from a very diluted wash of acrylic craft paint (“tuscan red”), applied two or three times.

Thanks for asking,

Cliff

Cliff_Jennings · July 8, 2019, 9:36pm

Jim Rowson said:

This is a good pace for updates, Cliff. Thanks for changing your entire life around to satisfy my whims :-).

Looking awesome. There’s something about rigging and pulleys that is so cool. Boomer and Rooster would say “shadows” are what it’s all about. You have a lot of shadows on this puppy…

Glad to oblige, Jim, haha! It just so happened that with the long holiday weekend, certain plans being either cancelled or postponed, and some nice rain, I had my first 4-day model binge ever!! Well, partial days, but still. Man, I want to retire…

Good point about shadows. I hadn’t heard that, but I totally agree: shadows = fun.

Something else that’s fun is working with real hardware – screws, washers, nuts. I love it when things get to that stage. Especially when the parts fit!!

Thanks Buddy,

===>Cliff

Bill_Barnwell · July 8, 2019, 11:00pm

Cliff Jennings said:

Bill Barnwell said:

Cliff, beautiful piece of work, I would like to know how you rust your parts and hex head bolts and/or screw type/size and where to get, thanks, Bill

Thanks Bill, I really appreciate it. The brass parts (rod, tube, screws) are all just wetted with Jax “pewter” blackener. You brush it on and the brass quickly reacts. It’s easily scratched off; but the whole car will get a matte clear coat at the end which should preserve the black.

Almost all of the hex bolts are from Microfasteners. I got a couple bags of 100 of their #0 x 1/4", and also some washers.

http://www.microfasteners.com/self-tapping-sheet-metal-and-wood-screws-hex-head-lag-screws-brass.html

thanks Cliff it is beautiful

The reddishness on the wood parts comes from a very diluted wash of acrylic craft paint (“tuscan red”), applied two or three times.

Thanks for asking,

Cliff

Bill_Barnwell · July 10, 2019, 6:33pm

Thanks for the info Cliff but what did you use to get the rust on the plates, I’ve used jax pewter before but if I remember correctly it just blackens, not rust color, anyway very cool, Bill

Cliff_Jennings · July 10, 2019, 9:27pm

Bill Barnwell said:

Thanks for the info Cliff but what did you use to get the rust on the plates, I’ve used jax pewter before but if I remember correctly it just blackens, not rust color, anyway very cool, Bill

Oh, now I get you. That was just a few drops of testors enamel, flat black and rust colors, heavily diluted with lacquer thinner. Brushed on, then maybe brushed over with thinner.

Glad it caught your eye, Bill. Now I feel better about using such a simple approach, haha!! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

up9018 · July 10, 2019, 9:53pm

Looks great Cliff. Now if I can get Jerry to secretly sneak that out of your workshop and send it up to me.

Cliff_Jennings · July 10, 2019, 11:35pm

Chris Kieffer said:

Looks great Cliff. Now if I can get Jerry to secretly sneak that out of your workshop and send it up to me.

Thanks Chris, but that won’t happen. At least not until two more weeks, when visit time for my my three screaming granddaughters concludes. The hi freq noise is almost as painful to him as it is to me, haha! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)

Rooster · July 11, 2019, 12:04am

You could always “secretly” pass the football to me Cliff…I’m numb to hi freq noise from the many years with a metal band but I don’t want the kids as my grandpa years ain’t here yet(or that I’m aware of) .

Besides derrick 50 will be kept in an undisclosed location (that does not exist). Off the Rooster plantation.

Bill_Barnwell · July 11, 2019, 1:15pm

Cliff Jennings said:

Bill Barnwell said:

Thanks for the info Cliff but what did you use to get the rust on the plates, I’ve used jax pewter before but if I remember correctly it just blackens, not rust color, anyway very cool, Bill

Oh, now I get you. That was just a few drops of testors enamel, flat black and rust colors, heavily diluted with lacquer thinner. Brushed on, then maybe brushed over with thinner.

Glad it caught your eye, Bill. Now I feel better about using such a simple approach, haha!! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

well it came out great whatever you did

Bill_Barnwell · July 11, 2019, 2:34pm

In the past I have tried some Vallejo environment textured paint with mixed results, it has course pigments in it which gives texture but the particles don’t stay in suspension very long so its hard to get them on to the painting surface but if you can they look good, they have several different ones like diesel fuel, oil, etc. Your metal plates just looked like old surface rust which I thought was unusual, Bill

ctown2 · July 11, 2019, 4:09pm

Baking soda works great for creating textured paint. You can do thick baking soda like mud and a little paint, or thin and create flaking rust.

John_Caughey · July 11, 2019, 5:42pm

Texture; I run dirt clods through my mortar and pestle to make multi-grades from sand to dust. I like to use dirt similar to my desired color. Poured out on a sheet of paper with a tooth, a gentle shaking separates it by size.

Add to paint or sprinkle on a wet surface … experiment.

Dang it, how can I sell my great ideas if I keep giving them away?

Cliff_Jennings · July 11, 2019, 7:45pm

Bill Barnwell said:

In the past I have tried some Vallejo environment textured paint with mixed results, it has course pigments in it which gives texture but the particles don’t stay in suspension very long so its hard to get them on to the painting surface but if you can they look good, they have several different ones like diesel fuel, oil, etc. Your metal plates just looked like old surface rust which I thought was unusual, Bill

Thanks Bill, I didn’t know they had those.

For my plates, now I’m thinking you might also be seeing the slight texture in the 3d printed parts.

Cliff_Jennings · July 11, 2019, 7:48pm

" Rooster " said:

You could always “secretly” pass the football to me Cliff…I’m numb to hi freq noise from the many years with a metal band but I don’t want the kids as my grandpa years ain’t here yet(or that I’m aware of) .

Besides derrick 50 will be kept in an undisclosed location (that does not exist). Off the Rooster plantation.

Haha!!

Yeah, I tell my wife that I should have gone to concerts more!

Cliff_Jennings · July 12, 2019, 12:24am

John Caughey said:

Texture; I run dirt clods through my mortar and pestle to make multi-grades from sand to dust. I like to use dirt similar to my desired color. Poured out on a sheet of paper with a tooth, a gentle shaking separates it by size.

Add to paint or sprinkle on a wet surface … experiment.

Dang it, how can I sell my great ideas if I keep giving them away?

John, over the years I swear I’ve heard you recommend the slinging of dirt into paint, concrete, Cemental, Titebond II, and I forget what else. Maybe silicone?

Maybe it’s time for me to try it… Not sure what on or in, but I’ll try to think of something.

This morning, for some reason, oatmeal came to mind. But it’s probably good that I didn’t act on that.

But I’ll keep thinkin.

(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

Cliff_Jennings · July 14, 2019, 7:30pm

Yesterday and today, I was able to get to the trucks, and here’s their parts. 3 standard gauge / no couplers, one of which has no brakes. The extra one with brakes is just cargo, to be mounted on the deck. 2 narrow gauge / with truck couplers, for layout running (in theory), one with brakes and one without. Five altogether. If that’s confusing to you, believe me, it’s been confusing to me. BTW, there are 4 side frames missing in this photo, they’ll be here in a couple days.

Today was final assembly brass blackening, and touch-up painting of various kinds.

I was going to do the decals today, but realized I didn’t have enough info on where all the lettering went (I only have a drawing of one side, and there’s no pics that I know of that shows the original lettering at all), so I’m waiting on an answer from the V&T experts.

So, upcoming is decals, nail-holing, some light weathering, then final clear-coating. Would love to get that all in next weekend!

Thanks for viewing,

===>Cliffy