I have 3 electric USA #6 switches on a wye, and all three machines are acting up. I guess that’s low budget manufacturing at work. Anyone else have a work around for these? It appears to me that the switch machine may also control a live frog also.
If you just use the wye for turning, set them up as spring switches (get rid of the switch machines altogether and install springs instead) and just insulate the frogs; I’m guessing if you use #6 switches you’re probably not running tiny engines, which are usually the only ones that might lose power on it… if you really need live frogs, use the switch points to carry the current. You’ll lose a little functionality, but you’ll be able to wye engines etc without touching anything.
John,
I have five on my layout, the first thing I did was remove the switch machine. I don’t think they are made for outdoors.
I installed hand throws on mine.
Don
Yeah there is one leg of the wye that needs an alternative to fully manual due to its location, whether it another switch machine made by someone else or a choke cable setup. Other than the switch machines failing, I really like these broad switches.
John,
I run batteries so electrical is not a problem for me. They are great switchies, I never have any problems with mine,
except maybe a small rock in them.
Don
Yeah, but that does not address the live frog problem.
You might want to adapt LGB motors… the electrics on the USAT #6’s have not received high marks.
Regards, Greg
Greg, something I have been considering.
Live frogs?
Yes, opposed to the ceramic one in your yard.
David Russell said:Yea, I got 3 of'em livin in my pond.............;)
Live frogs?
Ken Brunt said:Yum, fresh froglegs in March..... :)David Russell said:Yea, I got 3 of'em livin in my pond.............;)
Live frogs?
Andy Clarke said:Sure, but you gotta catch'em..............;)Ken Brunt said:Yum, fresh froglegs in March..... :)David Russell said:Yea, I got 3 of'em livin in my pond.............;)
Live frogs?
today i took my spare #6 and yanked the motor off and all the cheesy wiring. Using some photos sent to me by some folks at Fairplex I’ve rewired/added jumpers with heavy gauge wire. I plan use a LGB switch machine with a relay for the frog. if i can make it work, I plan to rework the other three switches. Keep ya’ll posted.
And yes in 2014, I’m still using DC track power.
Huzzah! Another sparky like myself. We are a dying breed. My sons call me a retro-grouch.
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I have 6 USA #6 switches on my layout. They’ve been done for at least six years with no problems. Yes, I removed all wiring. I use air motors to throw the switches. I think they are the best #6s for the price.
Doc Watson
Joe, but track power is the least expensive option. I am a cheap bast person, and I cant see spending the money to fit 30 plus locomotives with a control system. With a track powered set up, I can bring my new toys home and play with them right away. No extra work or expense is involved.
David , I agree wholeheartedly .
I have fitted Digital and also Radio Control to quite a lot of my locos in such a way that I can switch to track power as the mood takes me ; I have a fair number of very small locos like quarry stuff and field railway which do not lend themselves to the more esoteric control through the air . I no longer buy ready fitted digital , and on my home builds I may fit radio , if only for the fun of doing it .
As I can only control one loco at a time , I see no point in adding uncertainty to my fleet .
This argument comes up quite regularly on this forum , frequently led by vested interests , I would hate to think that another one is just starting . It achieves little and is divisive .
Air operated points , or switches as they are sometimes called are a very good option , but again , there are pitfalls , one of which is freezing water vapour in the tubes . They are perfect in summer , but winter can bring things to a stop . That is not necessarily a problem in warm climes of course . But I do remember frosty nights in the Libyan Desert , so even the climate can’t be relied upon .
Mike
the railroad sits at 5360 feet elevation, and I have considered air and never thought about freezing…good point.
A simple “Air dryer” in line on the air supply will take care of the winter freeze ups. If you have a particular switch that freezes often, Blow out that line with a good amount of new dry air. The volume of air used in the whole line is very small, and the complete exchange of air from the controller to the motor would take a lot of cycles to get an exchange. Just pull the tube at the motor and turn on the air and let it run for a couple of minutes.