Hey Bruce, or anyone else that can help me out. Ive been having a heck of a time getting my curves to come out nice and smooth. I always end up with a decreasing-radius curve, and then have to spend a half hour measuring and tweaking, etc. Here’s what I get:
Notice how from left to right, the radius gets smaller. Is there a trick to getting nice smooth curves and easements, or is it just all fiddly?
Bob, I made up a jig to make certain radius bends in mine. It holds the TrimPlank in place while you assemble it. It’s just a flat peice of 3/4 plywood about 3’x2’ with 2 2" dowels on either end and an adjustable one in the middle to hold the trimplank to that radius.
If you had showed up at Fred’s we could drawn ya a sketch…
Hmm…trying to remember if I had that problem. Probably did. I had a piece of curved sectional track that I used as my minimum radius “template”. But, unlike Ken, I didn’t build that in place, as I wanted those easements.
I’d put some stakes to hold in in place where it’s “good”, and then move it around until the radius on the other parts is correct. At that point, I’d use the curved track piece to make sure I did not go inside my minimum.
For instance, in your picture, you’re going to have to make a tighter curve out of that nice easement so the curve in the upper right gets larger. Or, try staking it in place on the far right, and then take each end and connect it.
Hmm…I guess it is just all fiddly?
[b]Bob, You could use the old tried and true “stake and string” method of laying out constant radius, followed by staking.
Another method is to use sectional track as a pattern when screwing together sections of ladder roadbed or cast concrete roadbed.
If additional tweaking is needed, then I use the Train-Li dual railbender. It allows bending of both rails, in-place, on the layout. Faux trestle added to the ladder roadbed.
JimC.[/b]
Yea, I think Im going to have to stake the ‘good’ curve in place, and then fiddle with the ‘bad’ curve until I get them close enough. I was thinking of marking a constant radius diameter on the ground with lime or something, and then use that as a template to guide off. I DO like the easements this method gives.
And, Jim, I like the faux trestle. I may have to steal, er, borrow that idea myself.
Bob,
I haven’t tried this, yet … but laying the curve from the left to the apex and doing the same from the right to the apex should even out the geometry. Just have to watch the radius at the apex.
BTW flextrack in the smaller scales - the “flexible” stuff - behaves much the same as Tuf-Board
Bob,
If my 2 cents means anything. What I did is laided my track down. Beat 1/2"(I believe) rebar in between the ties tight to the rail about every 2’ or so. I then took my half assembled ladder (as shown in your picture) slid it under the track and butted it up against the rebar. Rechecked alignment and screwed the inner piece on. I see you have a stone holding the tuf board in place. I did that as well. I found that the Trimplank(12’ lengths) worked much better on curves than the Tuf board. Only reason I know that is H.D. was out of tuf board so I bought trim plank. There is an issue connecting the 2 as one is 5/8" and the other is 3/4’ thick. But that section got covered with stone and will not be visible. I did have to do some minor adjustments to the track where I used 1x4 tuf board. That was very difficult to bend(12.5’curve). However it was well worth it as it made a much more solid substrate than 1x2’s and does get occasional light foot traffic. Hope this helps and rebar is cheap.
JC,
In your pic of the raised loop and faux trestle…does that loop come up from the track on the ground in front of the trestle?
If so what is the grade on that loop?
Andre’
Andre’, The ladder roadbed, bridge, and faux trestle are very nearly level [< 1 % grade]. The land elevation falls from back to front, left to right. The ladder ends to the left of the bridge about 3 ft into land, and at the river bridge at the top right of the picture. Dirt and rocks were built up under the first five feet of ladder on the top-right side. Pre-fill, Pre-trestle
Pre-Bridge w/reverse crossover.
Before/After
Hope this answers your question. JimC.
yep, Thanks
Andre’
Bob,
The beauty of the spline system is you don’t have to rely on the basic snap track method of old. You create any radius you want with great transitions.
I use a little different method of spline. I use 1/4" strips of redwood 1-1/2" wide. I draw center lines on a sheet of plywood for the diameter I want with transitions into straights or anyhing else. I then use 1-1/2" closet rod, 2" tall, and screw them down 6" apart over the lines. I take the first strip of wood, bend it to the jig, and clamp it to the dowels. I take my blocks and glue & 1/4" staple them to the strip of wood between each dowel. Then I glue and staple the other strip of wood to the other side of the blocks. After this sets, I glue and staple another strip of wood on both sides. After everything is dry, I remove the screws from the dowels, remove the dowels from the spline, and paint the section. To install the section, I place it on the layout, drive 2"x 2" stakes into the ground between the spline, level it where I want it with screws through the spline into the stakes, and cut-off the left over stake. I am now ready to bend my rail to fit the spline.
This system may sound like it takes a lot of time, but it really does’nt. I can fabricate 16’ long section in one evening, remove it from the jig the next day and install it.
Currently I have over 400 feet of spline installed with all but 20’ of track completed. This spline has been in the ground for over three years with no movement or twisting, and very level track.
Chuck
Chuck,
I work up a sweat just readin about that! 
Float, float, float, the track, just like a little ducky.
TOG
Chuck Inlow said:
Bob,The beauty of the spline system is you don’t have to rely on the basic snap track method of old. You create any radius you want with great transitions.
I use a little different method of spline. I use 1/4" strips of redwood 1-1/2" wide. I draw center lines on a sheet of plywood for the diameter I want with transitions into straights or anyhing else. I then use 1-1/2" closet rod, 2" tall, and screw them down 6" apart over the lines. I take the first strip of wood, bend it to the jig, and clamp it to the dowels. I take my blocks and glue & 1/4" staple them to the strip of wood between each dowel. Then I glue and staple the other strip of wood to the other side of the blocks. After this sets, I glue and staple another strip of wood on both sides. After everything is dry, I remove the screws from the dowels, remove the dowels from the spline, and paint the section. To install the section, I place it on the layout, drive 2"x 2" stakes into the ground between the spline, level it where I want it with screws through the spline into the stakes, and cut-off the left over stake. I am now ready to bend my rail to fit the spline.
This system may sound like it takes a lot of time, but it really does’nt. I can fabricate 16’ long section in one evening, remove it from the jig the next day and install it.
Currently I have over 400 feet of spline installed with all but 20’ of track completed. This spline has been in the ground for over three years with no movement or twisting, and very level track.
Chuck
Checkout some of the finished work. I have improved the method some since 2004. I made all of this in spline and more.
Dennis,
Thats awesome! You gave me a few good ideas that I never thoght of using, such as rough sawn lumber as fascia etc. I love the little mansion below the bridge.
Thankyou
David
Bob must still be fighting his tuf board…LOL
Has anyone ever built an outdoor RR without cursing at least once or twice? If so they must be a saint!
David Russell said:Alas, I am no saint ... :(
Has anyone ever built an outdoor RR without cursing at least once or twice? If so they must be a saint!
There has been known to be blue smoke rising from my basement while I’ve been working on my indoor layout…
And my garage is currently off limits to all virgin ears while I’m working on my box cab locomotive. I’m getting ready to sand all the paint off the roof for the 2nd time…Grrrrrrrrr…!! 
Sky was very blue after my repainted/weathered/lettered UP caboose slipped and fell four feet onto rocks. Anyone ever put a jigsaw puzzle together?
JimC.
Warren,
For all of our sake, get a coat of paint on it and get it running. This is a working engine, not a museum Ferrari.
After many years of running an old box cab would be lucky to have any paint on it, especially the roof.
Ric Golding said:
Warren,For all of our sake, get a coat of paint on it and get it running. This is a working engine, not a museum Ferrari.
After many years of running an old box cab would be lucky to have any paint on it, especially the roof.
I’m sure it will get plenty of natural weathering once I get it running. It doesn’t look like I’m going to be able to run it before Labor Day anyhow…finished or not. As far as run ability all it needs is the batteries installed and it’s good to go. That takes 5 minutes if they are already charged. My inspiration is from the Australian cane railroads. When a locomotive comes out of their shops…even a 50 year old working locomotive returning to the cane fields…it looks brand new.
