Hi, would the Train Engineer Basic handle a big hauler 4-6-0 pulling four or five flat cars and a caboose on a 8 by 40 loop? All flat running and no lighted cars. The specs I found say it is limited to two and a half amps. I just want to control speed and direction, and this unit is the only one in my budget. Thanks, Denny
Dennis,
I installed a Basic Engineer in the tender with battery of a Big Hauler about 10 or 12 years ago, and it worked OK.
Hope that helps
Rodney
In my experience with the TE basic the big limitation is range. I put one in a Thomas the Tank Engine model I made for my daughter out of an old wooden pull toy. I could not get more than maybe–maybe–ten feet out of it. I tried a lot of stuff to get it to work, too–black kat antenna, noise suppressing chokes on the motor, extended antenna lengths. Nothing doing. The best I could get was maybe ten feet, and it wasn’t reliable at all. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. You basically had to follow the train around to get it to work.
I did a lot of reading and most people found what I did --terrible, useless range. But I also found some posts from people who said it worked for them
I had the same experince, found it to be useless with batteries.
If you are using it on track power, it should work. You won’t have to walk with the train. Just stay by the receiver. A bachmann shouldn’t draw 2 amps, unless it is about to go fritzzzzzzzt! 
I’m not quite sure I understand…when you say TE basic…do you mean the orange colored unit??
As for problems with the 27meg TE(black unit) …personally I love it and it suits my needs running track power.
The range is excellent as far as I’m concerned.
Sure. That will work. The big hauler is very light on current.
Yes the orange unit is the one I’m looking at. I’m using track power and the transformer will be on a post towards the center of the layout.As the layout is only 40 ft I should never be more than 20 ft from the receiver
Dennis,
I don’t think that unit should give you any problems. The needs you described, I believe, are exactly what this unit is designed for.
No technically detailed response from Greg about the relative merits of different bands?
Yes that will work. I misunderstood–I thought you were trying to put the basic TE in the loco.
You will have to stay near the receiver
Tom Ruby said:Maybe he's on vacation ;) Ralph
No technically detailed response from Greg about the relative merits of different bands?
If you really paid attention Tom, you would see that I respect what the poster asks. If they say I am using X, and then asking a question about it, then I take “X” as the base.
The last few posts from you have been typically suggesting battery where the guy states track power, or something similar, not respecting what the originator of the thread asked.
I have read and followed this thread, and the people responding are answering the question and have more experience on this product than me.
Regards, Greg
Just keep in mind it has I beleive a 2 amp power limit, so choose your power-pack accordingly, no 5 or 10 Amp monster packs or you will smoke it. I used the orange BTE on my 10 x 20 foot layout with a basic LGB 1 amp power pack no problems at all even running two engines double heading, just turn the power knob about 3/4 full power and start pushing buttons. Its a real usefull device.
I don’t know what the TE will do when you try to pull more current than it is rated for.
Most modern electronics will shut down.
The size of the power supply should not be a factor unless the TE will not shut down in an overcurrent situation.
I’m on the phone right now with a friend from Washinton, and he says: “think of it this way, your house has a 200 amp breaker. Surely not all 200 amps are going through your 60 watt light bulb”.
Again, maybe the TE has no protection and will melt down if you try to PULL more than 2 amps. If you are concerned, why not fuse the inputs to the TE or the motor or the track pickups?
Regards, Greg
I expect it has one of those thermal cutout thingies in it.
Tom Ruby said:I love tech-talk like this, don't you? :lol: :P
I expect it has one of those thermal cutout thingies in it.
Steve Featherkile said:LMAO!!! Actually the recievers are fused and I'm sure will pop if overloaded. The basic will work for his application however on something as such I would recommend the regular TE as one always will eventually expand or consider it?Tom Ruby said:I love tech-talk like this, don't you? :lol: :P
I expect it has one of those thermal cutout thingies in it.
Hi, is there a control for the normal TE that hooks inline between the power pack and track? I do not want to buy recevers each time I buy an engine. Thats why I’m looking at the basic, anything I put on the track is remote control. With the small layout I have two trains on the track will never be an option. I just want to be able to walk along with it so i can throw the two manual switches I have without having to run back and forth to the power pack. Denny