Large Scale Central

Todd H. MIK 2025 Build

Korm,

That is how you learn to deal with the same sort of folks who make the same sorts of comments in living history community. Eventually, they isolate themselves behind a wall of their own self righteousness and disappear.

Eric

That is the thing. Not everyone has the money to buy it or pay someone to do it so we do what we can, make do, try and learn new skills.
That is what the Mik is all about to me. We make due with what we have and apply our skills to make the best thing we can while maybe learning something new as we go. We then share our accomplishment in the hopes to inspire others to give it a try.

I have experienced the same type of “rivet counter” in the custom car world. Many years ago I built a 1965 FFR Cobra kit car and the amount of times that I have been approached and asked “is it real?” and when I say no it is a replica, and the guy just walks away… it’s crazy. Others have been disappointed that it only has a 302 in it and not a 427. These rivet counters seem to think that if it isn’t real it isn’t worth it but hey I didn’t have a Million dollars to buy a real one, sorry… but do enjoy the ride home in your minvan you jerk. :joy:

Oh well, custom cars and model trains are supposed to be fun so chill out and go for a drive or run a train and be happy.

Holy smokes, really? The Cobra was basically a kit car when Shelby built the damn thing from the Ace :laughing: I would also stick with the smaller plant. I’ve talked with a few 427 owners and they all said it’s like riding a tiger, you never know when or where it’s going to try and kill you. Also that every 427 the engine heat turns your feet into two roast hams. The smaller plants makes a better driveable car that you can actually enjoy driving without worrying about that tiger.

And it will definitely make you crap your pants. Took a joyride in a “borrowed” Dragon Snake when I was 17. Damn near lost it!

That is true. The originals were basically kit cars.
The high HP cars do have traction issues and without modern safety conveniences like ABS and traction control they can get out of hand fast and kill you. HP is a question of how much you want to spend. I’d like to add more power to my car and then the cost really adds up when braking and handling also would need upgrading. Nope, I’m happy with my average budget build car that actually cost me a fraction of what guys are spending these days for them.
I tell people that I didn’t build it to win shows or races, I built it for fun.
As to the guys that ask if it is real I sometimes say, well if it was real it would be in a museum and it wouldn’t be painted purple. :grin:

Knew a guy with a 427 Cobra, the 427 was on an engine stand beside the car , under the hood was a very strong (more hp and torque ) 440 six pack in it to play with, and HOLY SMOKES, that was one fun, scary fun ride in that car on some back streets with large black marks on the road.

That’s cool Pete.
These days most are going with the Coyote motor which can have 400hp right out of the box which is more than enough for spirited driving. There are not too many being built with big blocks in them. I spoke with a guy at a show that had one in his beautiful Factory Five Racing Cobra, that’s what mine is, and he had over $80,000 in it… I don’t know but if I had that kind of money I’d be looking into a new Vette. At least the Vette has a heater, AC and a top. :laughing:

Back to the Behemoth. I have been building 2 transport cradles for the ends and I think they came out well. One end lifts off and a ramp is put in place for easy on/ off tracking. I built them using scrap wood I got for free at a yard sale. I kinda like the blue paint and will probably leave it.

I thought I was on to a plan to minimize the overhang on tight track. I made a short connecting piece with elongated holes where the flat bed connects to test my theory. The idea is to give some play to that area by allowing the flat bed to move on the rods that hold it together. It worked but the lifting arms did not return to the center once it was through the curve so back to the drawing board.
Next up is to try making a pivot point like a 5th wheel trailer has. I will mock up an “L” bracket with a bolt through it and a big washer and then attach it to the lifting arm. The center deck will then be lowered onto the bolt and it will be able to pivot through the curves. I think the problem will then be in bringing the lifting arms back to center after the Schnabel goes through the curve.
Fun times. :thinking:

Hidden springs might help on the return need of the arms.

:heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes:Sweet car :heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes:

Springs or a couple of really light exercise bands on inside that are tight , crossed and enough strength to pull it back to center position.

I was thinking about adding springs. Exercise bands are a good alternative I hadn’t thought of.

Hmmm :thinking:

I’m still waiting for the big peanut :crazy_face:

You could “flatten” it out a bit and use it to haul “pre-laid” sections of track (LGB 4-footers). The track would keep it rigid but would need to be able to pivot through the turns.

Alternatively, use curved sections of track, and only run it in a circle. :wink:

How about flex track!

You guys are crazy.
I had a look at the problem yesterday evening and I’m thinking about moving the main pivot points. This is going to take some doing including adding on to the both bridge sections to extend a 5-6" “tongue” toward the center. This will decrease the rigid load and lifting arms from a pivot point of 36" down to 24" which is closer to my longest cars.
I’ll post photos if after more figuring I can do this.

Damm…!!! Todd… Love it…!!! How Fun… To just go out and cruse around and pull into Dary Queen for a Sundae…Fun…Fun…

With the Schnabel? DQ would have a cow! But I’d pay to see it.
:grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Thanks Dave. Oh yeah DQ is on the menu. The car is so low that most drive thrus are tough but after driving for a bit stretching the old legs is always welcomed. I never did add cupholders so a Dunkin stop has to be managed to avoid a mess.:grin:

I made some progress on the “tongue” that will be used to extend the lifting arm pivot point.

This setup will reduce the rigid middle section of the schnabel and drop it from a long 36" to hopefully a more tight curve friendly 26". There is still lots to figure and then the other half will get worked on.