Large Scale Central

To. Paint or not to paint?!

Modeling
#28

Thank You! I also was drawn to the unique Alaska dual purpose units by happy accident. I had obtained and Alaska SD70MAC shell/frame when I purchased some SD70MAC and SD40-2 shells from Charles Ro without specifying roads as I planned to strip and paint them. They were set aside. Then someone requested I draw up the flared radiators for the late production CSX MAC’s and while doing some research I found one other road had those MAC’s - Alaska! I remembered I had the shell so I HAD to do it.

Before you dive too far into that, take a look at this comparison between the SD70MAC and the SD70M-2. They have almost nothing in common. It would be easier to scratch build the whole thing rather than mod the USAT MAC.

MACtoM-2
MACtoM-21920×942 249 KB

#29

I’m not exactly sure why, but UP SD70m units come in 5 different body types. three feature the dynamic brake behind the cab, one has flat (normal) style radiators, the second is almost exactly like the alaska set up with flared radiators, and the third is similar but has a notched nose almost like an SD70ACe only it’s tapered in on the edges like the MAC and still has the drop edge windshield. The other two versions look almost like SD70AH units with the dynamic brakes at the rear of the long hood and have a different engine compartment. It’s my guess that UP converted these units into SD70m and m-2’s themselves similar to the SD40M and M-2’s built at random from SD40, SD40-2, SD45, AND SDP45’s . there seems to be no rime or reason to which SD70 carbody types received the M/M-2 treatment. It’s so bad that I actually had to visit the UP rouster sight to make heads or tails out of which unit number went to what body type in the 70m series. I can actually use your wonderful parts and a usa trains unit so long as I choose the right number. It appears the number series determines the locomotive type, and not the car body with UP “M” series locomotives from what I can tell. They do list them as phase 1, phase2, and further add A, AND B classificatios to the phases numbers. But with out pictures on the web site, you have to hunt down the road number elsewhere to actually see what carbody it’s made from. :joy: it gets confusing quickly. th-3574012880
th-1415732978

4749-3116891918
4749-31168919181024×688 253 KB

th-753113432
15968903852_67fe9a3a67_b-3566309339
EMD+SD70+Series+1080px-1154847331
EMD+SD70+Series+1080px-11548473311600×973 413 KB

#30

All those pictures look to be as delivered SD70M’s by EMD. The Trainiax site has quite a comprehensive list of each lot UP purchased along with drawings. Trainiax Drawings
Description of the UP “phases” and changes made
Locomotive Descriptions and Phases

I mention this because judging by the level of detail you put into the spreader, I’m assuming you wish to create a highly accurate model.

#31

Wow, awesome spreader model!

#32

Yes I absolutely want to build one as accurately as possible. And I m beginning to see the wisdom of completely building one from scratch the more I look at it. As you pointed out scratch building is much easier then kit bashing and in my opinion provides better results. I suppose going this route I can pick the most unique example of the UP bunch and start laying the ground work. I honestly wasn’t sure how UP acquired it’s 70m units good stuff to know. I suppose I can head down to the south St Paul rail yards and see if there’s any around in the shops, or on the service tracks and if so, pester them till they escort me to take a close hard look at one in person. (Worth jumping through the hoops)

1 Like
#33

Lessons learned from previous kitbashing experience. Most of the time I can evaluate the amount of work and determine it’s not worth attempting but other times I have begun cutting and get too far into it to turn back. A perfect example would be my U25B to U33B Kitbash
A number of compromises needed to be made and today it sits on a shelf waiting for the day I feel it’s worth completing.

#34

Jenny, how do you feel about scratch building under pressure?

  • limited funds
  • construction limited to what you already have on hand
  • one month to finish
  • this year has a wheel theme

You might be interested in the annual LSC Mik challenge.

#35

Well considering most of what I scratch build is generally cobbled together from scrap I scrounge up any how. And assembled on a college girls budget , I’m all in! I was reading about the Mik in another post what an amazing way for his friends and hobby community to remember him! I would be honored!

1 Like
#36

wrong!
WE would be honored.

the hardest part is - you would have to sketch up a plan on a (paper)napkin.

#37

This from experience and painting UP engines, do not paint the red stripes over the gray color, yellow is ok, but I prefer white under the red stripe. I will say here to get the correct color look I did paint the yellow up to the gray and did the red striping with decals on the yellow only, much easier to get a good sharp line with decals, paint much harder to do as you always get a paint line. The biggest reason for red over the yellow, or white is the decals are very transparent and if you want the red in the stripes to standout like the actual engines do than a light color underneath is needed. Red is a very hard color to work with as it is very transparent and does not cover well. When painting with red always try to use white as a basecoat, if your undercoat is a dark color it will take three times as much paint to cover well.

1 Like
#38

With red/orange/yellow top coats I learned a trick from airbrush artists to use a pink primer. I hate painting yellow but once I primed in pink, it helped the yellow go down better.

1 Like
#39

YES!!! thank you so much. I have had moments and muttered some things I am not proud of when it comes to applying UP striping. I eventually went down to auto zone and bought a roll of super thin very high quality pinstripes in the size I needed. The stuff works amazing, and conforms to the details rather we’ll. Would much rather paint them though, so thanks for the tips!

#40

wow!

amazing work

thanks for sharing

#41

Jenny;

Don’t know whether you would want to try it, but I have seen photos of British OO locomotives being lined with a draftsmen’s pen. Never tried it myself, so I can’t comment on the degree of difficulty, but my guess is that it takes a LOT of practice.

Best, David Meashey

1 Like
#42

Thank you. It’s definitely worth the experiment. Even if nothing else , it will definitely come in handy for lots of other things. I’m going to give it a try.

#43

David Maynard used to post here, and he did all of his lettering by hand, Fine scroll work to heavy letters if I recall correctly

#44

I miss seeing his posts. Anyone know if he’s still around and just not posting here anymore?

#45

Same question here. I think, as they say, “He went HOn30 and never looked back.” :sob:

Sorry Jennifer, I don’t mean to distract. Your work is amazing! Please keep posting!!

#46

Not distracting at all! I love reading the posts, and am learning the names and history of this wonderful community. Its ALL relevant to me! I love this hobby, but it’s more then just trains and models. It’s the people you get to share in the hobby with that really adds the magic to it. You guys are the greatest!

#47

Jenny; If I may ask, out of curiosity…where in North America are you located ?
You mention CPRail/KCSCP in conversation, so is there an interest in stuff North of the border ?
We are up here in Eastern Ontario, Canada.
Fred Mills