The Shed

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Earlier in the thread, some voiced concern about the mold stains on the plywood. I’ve decided it all needs to come down for power wiring. I probably will replace it with some cheap paneling, maybe over foam insulation board for a little additional help.

I’ve pretty much decided on a suspended drop ceiling. Have y’all seen the simulated tin drop in ceiling tiles? The FEBT used them in the Robertsdale museum. They are pretty cool. They also make rusty corrugated metal panels. They are cool too, but cutting to fit is much more work.

[Hines (Bill)]

Jon, will they absorb sound or reflect noise?

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

They are plastic, so not absorbent. Not the same as acoustic tiles.

[Rooster]

@JRad

Have y’all seen the simulated tin drop in ceiling tiles?

Yes,
Used the same material for my kitchen backsplash when I gutted and redid it in 2016.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

A 20 amp outdoor GFCI was installed yesterday on the house across from the garage. For construction this will supply temporary power via 20A extension cables. Once I have the garage power roughed in I’ll run direct bury cable under the gravel and tie it to the load side of the GFCI.

The box came with two 20A GFCI’s installed. I only have once circuit, so I swapped out one GFCI for a standard 15A outlet. The hardware store only had white. Makes it easy to tell the difference! That’s a 20A extension cord plugged in. It’s a little shorter than when new due to a run in with the lawn mower this summer!

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Temporary power and lights are in. I have a bunch of heavy duty 12-3 extension cables that were in my CT house when we bought it. They came with and are being put to good use. This one has a quad outlet box on the end and serves as the temporary main feed from the 20A GFCI…

It goes in via the man door. I attached it to the wall so I don’t get my feet caught in it…

This is the other end. The white cord leads to overhead lights, the multi-tap is for the saw area work light and low current items. The two open outlets in the quad are for the saws.

In CT, most of the basement ran off three of these quad end extension cables. The overhead lighting…

I just need to hook up my stereo and I’m good to start work!

[Cliff_Jennings]

Great work Jon, you’re all set! Tools, lights, plugs, nice!!

Something’s been messing with me though,

Maybe I’m just channeling my inner Meashey, but that tiny door needs someone to guard it. Maybe not this…

… or this…

… but maybe something Gandalfy, saying “You shall not pass”.

OK, not the highest of priorities for you at this point.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

The second one would fit right in with the locals Marilyn thinks it needs a hasp and a lock. I don’t know who or why someone would want to go in there. It’s gross!!!

I’ve been tying to put together a materials list so I can order all the major stuff at once and get a great free financing deal. Dang this stuff has really gone up in price. The door and window alone will be about $1K. At least I still have a pair of lamps that I paid $10 for on close out years ago.

Toward that end I’ve got the first draft of the roll-up door replacement. Don’t harass me over the siding fill. Done in Visio with cut and paste. No photo editing going on…

[Rick_Marty]

Hey Jon, that’s still way better than my cardboard mockups

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

I finished the framing plan. When drawing the existing I made some assumtions like this was built like a house. Well no. I had to remove almost half of what I drew as existing (red) New framing is green. My truss 2x4s are oriented the wrong way on this drawing…

[Cliff_Jennings]

Jon,
Excellent shed plan. The door, the window, the framing. Nice work.
And your RV’s bumpout connecting with it is a great touch. Really expands your options.
Love it!

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Now I’m ready to work - temporary stereo set up over the temporary work area…

It’s appropriate to be playing 40’s swing with the mode of transportation just outside my window. My dad tutored me on the good stuff in the 60’s and I turned him on to bands like ELP in the 70’s.

I took down two sections of plywood from the corner behind the tool box. I discovered there had been some standing water here for a long while once. The bottom 4" of the panels were cut off and discarded. The base plate of the front wall is basically dust. Also, there is no corner nailer for the interior so I think I will demo the entire front wall…

Tomorrow I start roof repair.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Shingles off exposing the rotten deck. It looks like I only need to replace the deck across one bay. I’ll add additional nailing surface inside the two rafters to support the patch.

[David_Marconi_FOGCH (David Marconi CHHNNG)]

Minor damage to say the least

[Cliff_Jennings]

It’s great that the sheets are visible from below for easy inspection. You’ll retain the shingles for now?

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Yes. I removed the shingles carefully and might re-use them. If the local lumber yard has a close match I’ll buy a bundle and put down new in this spot. I’d like to add tar paper under the patched area if I can buy it in a small roll.

I decided to open two bays across and up 24" from the edge. Used my Ryobi 5" circular saw to cut out the damaged deck…

[smcgill (Sean McGillicuddy)]

Hmmm a sky light is a calling

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

A skylight would be cool, but it’s another thing that’s not in the time or money budget along with a complete strip of the roof and new underlayment and shingles - OR - metal over the top on 2x4 purlins.

The repair job is done. It’s really nice having a small personal service lumber yard right down the street. The owner is getting old so unless he finds a buyer, it will probably go a way. Same with the well stocked True Value Hardware. Kevin, the owner, is maybe 80 and runs the place with his wife. He has two summer helpers, but they are back to school, Anyway, I asked if he could cut a 4x8 so I could get it into my car. His response was sure, if you can help! He had the plywood, drip edge, underlayment and caulk in stock. By late morning I was on the job.

I ended up re-cutting the opening for a better fit, then caulked the cut edges that didn’t match perfectly. I forgot to take a picture at that point, so here the underlayment is rolled back to give a peek…

I added underlayment here as extra insurance for the aging shingles I put back. The rest of the roof has none…

New drip edge…

Same old crappy shingles put back. The bad eve edge will be addressed in the spring when I have drops of siding from the front…

Now I need to get serious with the front wall. Remembering I loose a week this month for our trip back to CT and up to Trainops. Ordering materials this week.

[Cliff_Jennings]

Looks great John, big pita done!

Did you find a culrpit for this?

Like a hole in the shingles bashed in by a limb? If it started higher up, you’d have seen some discoloration below I’d think.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

@Cliff_Jennings

Did you find a culrpit for this?

No. There was no damage to the shingles. I would guess a penetration, but there was no evidence of replaced shingles unless they had the same staple gun! A lot of water came in here for a period of time. There is a spot in the front corner with evidence of standing water. I suppose it could have started with an ice dam. They insulated and put up plywood inside. I’ll bet there was portable heat at one time.

Going to get my $15 no inspection permit this week.