Just google Graphite Powder and you will come up with a bunch of sources. I found one for $15 a pound! Your local Lowes, Home Depot or hardware store should have small tubes in the lock department.
I’ve been using neolube for a while–it’s expensive, but it lasts a long time. It’s surprisingly durable: you can’t really rub it off some surfaces. It sticks to some materials more than others. Not sure if there is a carrier other than alcohol in there. I’m guessing there’s something else in there. The brush that comes in the bottle is close to useless-I use a small paintbrush
KaDee makes “Greas-em” a graphite lube. I think it is primarily for the smaller scales, but is good stuff. Also works as a lock and tumbler lube.
Barry - BBT
mike omalley said:Hi Mike, Nice to see you drop by. Hope you had a good Christmas. My questions.........How long has it lasted so far? Have you had to reapply the Neolube on any of the wheel sets? Ralph
I've been using neolube for a while--it's expensive, but it lasts a long time. It's surprisingly durable: you can't really rub it off some surfaces. It sticks to some materials more than others. Not sure if there is a carrier other than alcohol in there. I'm guessing there's something else in there. The brush that comes in the bottle is close to useless-I use a small paintbrush
Ralph:
I’ve had to reapply it to the siderods on a lionel atlantic–the Lionel rods are shiny "chrome’ plastic and the neolube doesn’t want to stick on the edges. That’s the only case where I’ve had to reapply it. I think it works better on surfaces with a bit of “tooth.” I hsould probably take the siderods off and rough them up a bit. It sticks well on matte-painted surfaces, and on aristo’s stock siderods. I test-applied some to an old pair of slip-joint pliers, and it’s still there after three years.
Alcohol removes it pretty well
I’m going through the tender trucks. My Aristo-Delton trucks I had gave out on me and all I could do was derail!
So, time for a replacement. I had some Hardford Product reefer trucks from some other project and decided that they would do. Sure, not the right trucks, but who can really tell when you’re running.
When Ken came down to operate, I brought this locomotive out as it always seems to do well. I found out that I’m just not a good enough modeler to make those trucks work correctly as the tender gave us fits all day.
So, an order to Bachmann and I now have some K-27 tender trucks underneath.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/TenWheeler/Rebuild/IMG_1416.JPG)
While I was at it, I rebuilt the platform from the tender to the locomotive. Had it out today - with about 20 school children watching, and it all performed flawlessly.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/TenWheeler/Rebuild/IMG_1418.JPG)
congrats… 
Bruce Chandler said:
Had it out today - with about 20 school children watching, and it all performed flawlessly.
And it’ll run just fine every time…till I come down again…
That is one fine lookin’ loco, Bruce.
Oops. I took this to 2015 TrainOps…and it had…problems. Never wanted to go.
When I got home, I took a look at it. Holy Crap! Lots of broken pieces…valve gear…stryene…
I thought I could repair some of the valve gear. Bachmann stuff is pretty neat, as you can solder to it. However…just too much to repair. So, I ordered an Anniversary chassis from Bachmann. VERY impressive - 2 days after I ordered it, it arrived at my home. I just needed the valve gear, but they didn’t sell that. But, it’s a good starting point if anyone wants to scratch a loco.
In the meantime, I rebuilt the drawbar section with brass, replacing all the cracked and broken styrene.
A bunch of screws are left over, but I think I’ve got it back to working. Doesn’t look any different from the earlier pictures, but it seems to run well.
Bruce Chandler said:
A bunch of screws are left over
Cool …can I have them because I need some I lost ?
David Russell said:
Bruce Chandler said:
A bunch of screws are left over
Cool …can I have them because I need some I lost ?
I always knew that you had a few screws loose, Rooster. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
More info please Bruce. Was everything intact when you packed up the loco? It just didn’t survive the trip? Does your carrier have foam that touches the valve gear?
How about this soldering? If they side rods are styrene and plastic, how do you solder to them are they plated? Sorry I’m so full of questions.
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
More info please Bruce. Was everything intact when you packed up the loco? It just didn’t survive the trip? Does your carrier have foam that touches the valve gear?
How about this soldering? If they side rods are styrene and plastic, how do you solder to them are they plated? Sorry I’m so full of questions.
I suspect that this stuff was broken from the fall way back when, or at least weakened. But, all of the side rods and valve gear are solid metal and solderable.
I patched some stuff - in the very center of the picture I soldered some brass onto the eccentric rod; sandwiching the original piece between two brass pieces. Then filed it all sort of smooth. Had to put a tiny screw in the radius bar, but than the other end of the link broke. That’s when I decided to just replace the whole thing.
While I was at it, I redid the back end that holds the draw bar - replacing the original styrene with some brass sheet.
I used Neolube on the valve gear again, since I didn’t care for the shiny silver look.
Took it out for a test drive today - only about 8 scale miles, but it worked well.
I’m just happy it’s working well again.
Glad the surgery went well. I’m missing one screw from the valve gear on one of my two Annies. I did a quick fix with a loop of wire, but it really needs the correct screw. I don’t run them as they are track power only and need to be up-scaled. That’s a project for a long way down the road when I get my two Dizzies and the Connie put back together.
P.S. Did you build that girder bridge? Can I get a close-up picture of the chair (or foot if you prefer) that lifts it off the pier? I’m trying to come up with a simple to make design that looks reasonable and yours looks good.
Jon,
Thanks. Have you tried a tiny nut and bolt? I used some 00-90 stuff…or maybe it was 00-80?
That’s a Garden Metals Model, but they’re no longer in business. They got sold to Bridge-Masters, but they don’t have any girder bridges available.
Here’s a close up:
Hmmm…looks like a few nail pops in the trestle. No more closeups! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)
Here’s a shot of how it looks when it’s new and not outside.
Thanks Bruce - Looks like GMM took the route I’ll probably follow: Function and Ease of Manufacture beat Prototypical Accuracy. In the long shots it looked perfect (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Is the dry transfer the better way to do lettering? I have a couple of cars I want to re-letter, but do not know what type of lettering is best.