Large Scale Central

The Gas Station Returns

Modeling
#1

I decided to rebuild the gas station that rotted - (http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/16822/search/view/page/1) Not much to save: the windows, the figures, and the gas pumps all survived, but everything else is brand new. Hopefully this should last a bit longer.

ARTICLE: A Master Index for the J&B RR
#2

Bruce, what did you use for the apron under the station? Concrete backer board?
Ron

#3

And how did you do the entrances in the curbs?

#4

The base is made from 3/8" foamed PVC. The entrances were done with a belt sander and file. Some closeups:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/GasStation/IMG_0508.JPG)

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/GasStation/IMG_0509.JPG)

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/GasStation/IMG_0511.JPG)

After printing out my signs on Papillio vinyl, I decided I’d go with decals instead. A quick note to Stan Cedarleaf and they were done. I applied them to some thin brass sheet and then cut to fit. The big Texaco sign was done on 1/8" thick styrene.

#5

Good to see that gas station recycled. Nice Job Bruce! I like your attention to proper period detail, especially the use of a ramp instead of a lift for lubing & working beneath the cars. They also used just straight pits as well. All open air too. I remember seeing those when I was a kid; about 1000 years ago! hehe!

#6

I’m anxious to see if the decals hold up any better then the printed vinyl.

BTW, that’s one ugly dog ya got there…:wink:

#7
Ken Brunt said:
I'm anxious to see if the decals hold up any better then the printed vinyl.

BTW, that’s one ugly dog ya got there…:wink:


Yes, it should be an interesting experiment. :o Most of my colored signs printed on vinyl have not lasted very well at all.

#8

Hmmmmmmmmm…
My home printed decals have not held up outdoors at all :open_mouth:
I’ve not had the cojones to leave Stan’s ALPS printed decals outdoors :wink:
Ralph

#9
Bruce said:
The entrances were done with a belt sander and file.
It can't be that simple, not from the Master! :P
#10
Ralph Berg said:
Hmmmmmmmmm.................. My home printed decals have not held up outdoors at all :O I've not had the cojones to leave Stan's ALPS printed decals outdoors ;) Ralph
Just put it somewhere where it gets mostly shade. You do that for some plants, do it for some buildings.
#11

Nice redo, Bruce. BTW, where did you get the Coca-Cola vending machine? I need something like that for my old-time gas station, one of my many works in progress. Actually, I’d prefer one of those old-fashioned kind of coolers, the kind that stood on legs, maybe was cooled by block ice, and had two flaps on top that you could open to get at the drinks.

While we’re on the subject of gas station stuff, how does one print labels to stick on dowels or whatever, to make oil or paint cans–for store interiors? I tried printing various labels I downloaded off the web, but could never get the printer to scale 'em down to a proper (read: tiny) size.

Yer thoughts and ideas?

#12

Not sure about vinyl at all, but a good coating of acrylic matte medium will protect decals and even inkjet-on-paper printed signs outdoors for quite awhile. I use it and it’s fine, even in rain etc. Just be sure to coat right over the paper edges. Such signs are easy to reprint and replace when necessary, say every couple of years…

Use Matte medium for your adhesive too; it’s waterproof, white/carpenter’s/yellow glues aren’t.

On wood all of 'em’ll give way; on plastic/metal you’re golden as no water will soak in behind the medium to weaken the bond. If your structure is wood, it’s better to leave off the glazing, give structure a chance to remain dry inside. I leave off the paint as well - let it weather au naturel.

Inkjet “ink” will fade in the sun, so follow Steve F’s advice… I try to have all printed signs on the pike face North, or at very least have them in the deep shade. I often print signs on paper that I have coated and let dry in advance with an acrylic wash, stain or tint, then after printing give 'em that protective coat, and another after they’re applied to the bldg.

By the way, old time freight cars were often emblazoned with full-color advertising posters, usually from the shippers. I haven’t stuck any on my boxcars yet, but I’m thinking about it… Such posters are all over the Web… Acrylic matte medium will do a fantastic job of sticking them to your plastic rolling stock. Again, coat with matte medium. Scotch-Brite & water will remove them, I promise.

Joe: some thoughts - try a variety of printer settings - you’ll probably have at least three to try. It depends on what problem you’re having. For example on my HP inkjet, fast draft gives way too much ink for fine details, other settings apply less ink & that’s better. In your photo app. you might reduce the image file size so it contains WAY, WAY fewer pixels - you don’t need hi-res for a pile of miniature tincans, just an overall impression. Consider reducing the contrast, even printing your labels a bit paler. These are ideas to reduce the ink on yr paper. This is the most likely problem, it seems to me… but your mileage may vary.

#13
Joe Rusz said:
While we're on the subject of gas station stuff, how does one print labels to stick on dowels or whatever, to make oil or paint cans--for store interiors? I tried printing various labels I downloaded off the web, but could never get the printer to scale 'em down to a proper (read: tiny) size.

Yer thoughts and ideas?


I use PaintShop Pro and usually when making a sign will make it a good size, then I can usually reduce the size the same way I do photos with the PSP program. It has a “resize image” window that will reduce by inches or pixels. The graphics program does the reducing and the printer just prints it out. Then I print it out on paper to see if it’s the right size I want. Once I have the image the way I want it, the PSP program can print multiple images on one sheet of 8 1/2"by 11" sheet of waterproof vinyl. I’ll do 2 or 3 of the same sign just in case I need to replace it on the building.
The only color I’ve not had a problem with fading is black, so most of my signs anymore on done in black. I’ve tried UV Resistant Clear sprays by Krylon and Papillo and neither one will keep the colors from eventually fading.

#14
Ken Brunt said:
The only color I've not had a problem with fading is black, so most of my signs anymore on done in black. I've tried UV Resistant Clear sprays by Krylon and Papillo and neither one will keep the colors from eventually fading.
That sums up my experience so far ;) Ralph
#15

Nice rebuild Bruce ! I really wish I could get into structure mode. I have a bunch of Pola stuff that people have given me. Just can’t figure out where to use it.

#16

Thanks!

Joe, I have no idea where I got that Coke machine. Could be from an old Pola kit. But, it would be easy enough to make one as it’s not much more than a box.

Steve, simple is ALWAYS best. But sanding and filing sure created a LOT of dust.

I’m just sorry Ken doesn’t like my ugly dog. :o

#17

There is a vendor on eBay that sells Coke machines. I think they are 1/24, but …

Bob C.

#18

http://www.larrygscale.com/servlet/Categories - Larry’s has quite a bit of diorama type stuff including a coke machine…

#19

Ya know folks…REAL signs fade over time too…its prototypical…So Bruce…howd ya do the roof?

#20
Bart Salmons said:
Ya know folks.......REAL signs fade over time too.........its prototypical......
Yep. But faded is one thing...........disappeared in a few months is another ;) Ralph