I used the original Accucraft glad hand. I drilled a tiny hole in it and glued a tiny nail in the hole. Trimmed the back side. Then I put a drop of glue on the nail head and let the magnet take hold. I did this to every glad hand. I tried using just one magnet and it twisted too easily, so I added a magnet to every glad-hand. The hose is flexible surgical tubing. I’m still fine tuning the hose length. It’s different on some cars. Next I’m going to drill a tiny hole in the KD and add a tiny cotter key to use to fasten the lift bar chain. I may add some nylon thread under the coupler to hold the hose up off the track when it is uncoupled. You can uncouple with a long screwdriver and the hose pops off just like a real one. It doesn’t have a blast of air releasing, tho. It looks a lot better than that metal “air hose” that hangs under a KD.
John Bouck said:Why not? So when are you gonna start that project? ;)
It doesn't have a blast of air releasing, tho. :)
I think I went too far already, Dave. My buds are calling me “Anal”.
Noooo!!! NOT ANAL!
LOL!
John Bouck said:That's either more balls, or more foolishness, than I've got, mate.
Next I'm going to drill a tiny hole in the KD .
More foolishness, definitely!
I don’t know why I just can’t leave anything alone!
John,
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder…BEAUTIFUL work!!
Bob C.
Looks great John. Nice to know I inspired someone. Well, assuming I’m the “Bruce C” you’re referring to…
Bruce;
check out the “NEW” Kadee “G” scale couplers…with a hidden spring. They look great. They are also going to produce a new one in the #1 line also.
Bruce Chandler said:Of course. With a little modification from your type. (You made your hands.) I just used the hands and valves that came with the cars. On my scratch built stuff, I will use PNG's valves and hands.
Looks great John. Nice to know I inspired someone. Well, assuming I'm the "Bruce C" you're referring to... ;)
Now get to weathering your cars.
My last order from Phil was just a bunch of his valves. I still make my own hands, but now just use some .060" styrene and quickly cut to shape.
I’ll probably weather more of my cars as part of my winter projects. I plan to bring each one down and do some maintenance. I’ll oil the trucks and make sure my hoses are the correct length; check for coupler height…
John Bouck said:Answer
More foolishness, definitely! I don't know why I just can't leave anything alone! :) :)
jb said:
I think I went too far already, Dave. My buds are calling me "Anal".
So now there are three of us Bruce! I made resin castings for my glad hands
Bruce,
“I’ll oil the trucks and make sure my hoses are the correct length; check for coupler height…”
I’ve got to ask, what coupler height?
Just to stay in on the list of coupler height standards; I’m sticking with the Kadee #1 gauge coupler height, as I have always done. Since we have over 300 pieces of rolling stock, in service in two different operations; now is NOT the time to even contemplate changing coupler height…!!
As much as I like the idea of connecting glad hands; the crews around here would kill me if I ever suggested making it a standard…and again…would I contemplate equiping 300 cars…not in my lifetime…!!!
This subject of couplers and their heights, is well timed as I’m in the midst of checking all of our NG passenger equipment, for coupler standards and wheel gauge. The shop is busy once again…my motivation factor has finally moved up from low to a moderatly high level…!!
Fred, Have you found any problems in body mounting couplers on the NG Passenger equipment? My question is in relation to radius and side travel of the coupler shank moving through the yard and turnouts.
Ric Golding said:
Bruce, “I’ll oil the trucks and make sure my hoses are the correct length; check for coupler height…” I’ve got to ask, what coupler height?
24" in 1:20.
Ric;
As long as you don’t go narrower than 5 foot radius, there is no problem body mounting #1 gauge Kadee couplers on LGB or B’mann passenger cars. If you have any curves, with slightly less radius, you can probably get by, if you cut the draft gear boxes just a bit on each corner. By this I mean, before putting the couplers together (820’s), use a chisel blade and cut about 1/8th inch from the corners of the boxes…not the top or bottoms, just the sides …just enough to alow the couplers to swing that extra 1/32 of an inch…not much, but it makes all the difference on an “S” curve. I used to have a few 4 foot radius “S” curves, and that wee cut, made the difference.
As far as the Aristo heavy-weights; if you have them, you really need the adapter sets that Kadee sells…but in truth, those cars don’t look good or operate well on less than WIDER radii than 5 foot.
Thanks Fred,
I’m guessing the LGB 1600 turnouts are 8 foot diameter or 4 foot radius and that has been my solution on the coupler boxes. I have not body mounted my passenger car couplers, but it is on my list. The closest I get to an “S” curve is going through those turnouts in a yard. What turnouts are you using in Craig Leigh?
Bruce,
Have you made a major change to a Kadee coupler height gauge?