When I started with that printer, I had BIG problems with everything sticking to the bed, so I got one of these flexible sheets (https://whambamsystems.com/) and it made a HUGE difference.
How many times have you come back to the shop to find a huge ratsnest
of filament wrapped around everything
WAY too many to count!
I never moved past PLA and never had any problems with it outside, but perhaps that is because I painted everything.
With my Chiron, I have adhesion problems, in the form of āEverything sticks to the bed like itās been epoxied!ā I need to get one of those flexible build plates for it.
Bob McCown said:
With my Chiron, I have adhesion problems, in the form of āEverything sticks to the bed like itās been epoxied!ā I need to get one of those flexible build plates for it.
The flexible build plates are simply amazing! VERY happy with mine.
Bruce Chandler said:
Bob McCown said:
With my Chiron, I have adhesion problems, in the form of āEverything sticks to the bed like itās been epoxied!ā I need to get one of those flexible build plates for it.
The flexible build plates are simply amazing! VERY happy with mine.
Which one did you get? The Whambam seems to be the popular one, but I dont know if I want to spend 1/2 of my printer price for one.
Bob McCown said:
Bruce Chandler said:
Bob McCown said:
With my Chiron, I have adhesion problems, in the form of āEverything sticks to the bed like itās been epoxied!ā I need to get one of those flexible build plates for it.
The flexible build plates are simply amazing! VERY happy with mine.
Which one did you get? The Whambam seems to be the popular one, but I dont know if I want to spend 1/2 of my printer price for one.
I got one from Whambam for the large creality, but I donāt recall it being very much. Somehow when I converted to the Mac I lost all of old email - or at least all of my orders before 2019! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
As Iām waiting for a replacement part for my FDM printer, Iāve been perusing the web for resin printers. I realise there is the initial costs and per kg it looks kilo per kilo the price for resin is double. However, I understand at some point the resin can cloud up.
For those using resin, roughly how much of the liquid is wasted? Is it worth filtering?
Iāve never really āwastedā any resin, except what is washed off before curing. I filter after each print in case any stray supports are in there, but that doesnāt waste much except what sticks to the filter.
Agreeing with Bob, itās not too significant. Iād guess maybe 5% loss, with filtering, wiping up after printing, dissolving into the IPA. For me the main loss is support material. Well, and failed prints. Iāve got boxes of failed printsā¦ Not sure why I keep them. 
You keep them because you never know when you might need them for a MIK Challenge.
Have you invested in colours or is there just one best colour?
Are there good and better resins?
When I was first learning resin printing, I bought myself two bottles. One bottle I figured was for testing and failed prints and one was for actual good prints once I worked everything out. It ended up about an half a bottle of learning curve.
Iād say mis prints/failed prints/calibration of prints eats up way more resin than filtering and cleaning. I tend to let my prints run over night, then depending on the day I might not get to them until the afternoon. Iāve noticed if I let them drip more I have less cleaning.
Iāve never printed in anything other than gray.
Yes thereās a wide variety of resins. I tend to stick with Fast Navy Grey by Sinatra.
Are you saying life is too short for bad resin -or- the learning curve was not that steep?
The learning curve wasnāt very steep at all. In fact, Iād argue Iāve had more trouble with the new FDM printer than any resin. Iāve gotten in the habit of ordering new resin and new nFEP at the same time as nothing is worse than discovering you have a tiny leak in the film an now replacement. Filtering the resin after every run certainly helps eliminate that need.
If I was buying a new resin printer Iād make sure I could either get a resin vat heater included or aftermarket. Heating via heat lamp works but Iām sure itās not as effective as a vat heater.
Yea, Iāve found resin is actually easier to use overall than FDM, even with the PPE I wear. FDM I seem like Iām constantly fiddling with things as they get out of alignment or whatever, whereas the resin printer just needs the occasional FEP change and a total clean once in a while.
Iām still learning FDM after I was gifted a printer last month. I feel as if Iāve had more failures than when I was learning resin. And FDM printers seem at least to me a bit more work is required to tweak them to the best quality print.
I may be a little late to the game here. i am on my second resin printer, the first one (form 2) is still working as i use up the remaining resin. the time to print parts with it is 4-5 time longer than the new form 4. as i mainly print detail parts i can now print a full platen in less than two hours
Al,
I feel like Iām let in the dark with a 2k printer! I definitely want to upgrade at some point but for now I have to be happy with what I got.
I take it then that resins canāt be mixed, and that settings may be different depending on brand or colour?
Bill,
from what i have seen the new machine uses newer versions of the resin, so i am not mixing. i did play around on the form 2 mixing resins with mixed results. the new machines are offered with an open mode, where you can use other resins, but at an additional cost.
i see no need to experiment when i have a resin that is almost impossible to break , that is usable for stirrup steps and the like.
AL P.
