Large Scale Central

Switches

Track and Trestles
#1

I just got my order from http://www.switchcrafters.com - I ordered a #6 and a #8. Initial impressions are very good. They’re a bit cheaper than some of the others and appear pretty well made. They are quite long and have continous rail for the points, which I like. As a no charge option, he coated the sides of the rail - I think it looks nice. Here’s some closeups:

And a shot next to some Micro Engineering Track

And next to some AMS track:

Of course the real test will be when I get these down on my layout. That may be a while.

#2

What are the ties made from?

#3

It’s some sort of composite that doesn’t rot…

#4

Bruce,

Looks very nice!
And they come in three flavours 215, 250 and 332! I’m kind of curious how solid the 215 alu would be, probably not elephant-, horse- or deerproof. :wink: :slight_smile:

#5

Those are nice, and the prices really can’t be beat. I’m a bit curious to see how things operate through the frog, if there’s any bumping because of there being no bottom on the flangeway. Technically speaking, that shouldn’t be a problem, but it will be interesting to see how it works in reality.

How springy are the points? I’m assuming you’d need a rigid ground throw for those, since they’ve a natural tendency to center between the rails. Probably not the best choice for the base of a reverse loop, but a few seconds with a Dremel tool and a railjoiner would remedy that in short order, too.

Later,

K

#6

I know a few of mine I built that way I ended up haveing to put a little 'bottom" in the frog…

#7

I can’t imagine code 332 being springy enough for one piece point rails !

#8

Bruce, . . thanks for posting and for the link. I’ll keep watching for you post on how they work. I like the one peice points. Good railroadin’, . . . .

#9

I would like to introduce my self. I just retired and will be putting in my first garden railroad. I had Lionel when I was a kid and I had HO for my kids. Now that I am putting in a layout for myself I have decided that large scale in the outside is the way to go. I am ready to purchase rail and a few switches from the same source. Did you go with 250 or 332 code track. I am on the fence between choosing between the two. Since this is my first garden layout I would like the consesus of opinion on which code is the best for reliable performance and the least amount of repair needed. I need to order rail soon as I hope to put in a loop of track before Thanksgiving.

Big John

#10

Welcome to LSC, Big John!

On that track height, it depends on …

… what you plan to model.

… what your garden looks like i.e. how many trees will “contribute” debris.

… what method of construction you plan on using, smaller rail height will cause more derailments if the track laying isn’t up to snuff.

and, and, and…

I’m sure the “gang” will pitch in!

Oh and the real biggy … deciding if you will use track power or batteries.

#11

After all my research I plan to use battery power with RCS remote control. I have a Bachman 2-6-0, Annie and a Shay. I know I should have bought some track first but I saw these engines and had to have them. I have an old Bachman transformer and a loop of track that I just run the engines on inside the house to check them out. I am converting the Annie as we speak. I plan on 100% steam power. Diesels don’t do a thing for me. I have a lot of trees around my back yard where the railroad will go. The main track will be a dogbone 80’ long with a 50’ loop on one end and a 25’ loop on the other end. I have a fall of about 6 feet from one end to the other of the 80’ length. Both ends of the dogbone are relatively flat. I plan to build a large curved tressle on the low end, the 25’ loop so the grade will be 3% or lower as the train runs toward the high end. I have good access to the entire perimeter of the track. As far as laying the track, I plan to cut trenches 6" wide and 2" deep filled with stone for the track base. Then lay the track and balast it in place. I just joined a garden railroad club and most of the members there run their trains on elevated platforms that just don’t look very realistic.

Like I said I need to buy track and get started. I should have the Annie ready to run on battery/RC in a week.

Big John

#12

HI John,

Welcome aboard. You have the mid-watch.

Bart has the coffee pot on down in the Goat Locker.

Rather than tagging along on another thread, you might consider starting your own. You will probably get more answers that way.

That said, welcome to the battery mafia. If your trees deposit a lot of debris on the track, a scale snow plow of some sort of other will be a big help. Or a leaf blower.

If you are concerned about scale in the garden, then code 250 or even 215 would be the way to go. If you think that the dog, or a deer or even you might step on the track, then give code 332 some consideration.

Is frost heave a problem in your area? If so, your proposed method of track laying has not proven very reliable. OTOH, if there is no frost heave, then there is not much to worry about. When the track is floated as you propose, you will find that on curves the outside track seems to sag a bit so that the train will lean to the outside of the curve. This is easily fixed by shoving some more ballast under the outside rail. There are other methods of track laying. You might give the ladder method a look-see. Just type in “ladder” in the search engine on this site.

Do you plan to sit back and watch you trains chase their caboose, or are you more into operating? That answer will influence your layout design.

Well, others will chime in and give you more to think about. Welcome to LSC!

SteveF

#13

John,
Welcome aboard! I tried the floating method to start with, but got very tired of the continuous maintenance. When I rebuilt my layout, I went with the ladder method and flex track. It’s only been down a bit over a year, but I’m very pleased with the lack of maintenance in comparison. Still there, but not nearly as much.

I’ve installed a #8 and a #6 switch so far. Very pleased, though I’ve only run a few trains through them.

#14

I think you may have said the magic word…Grandkids. I would highly recommend code 332 brass or stainless around youngsters. It’s far more durable and forgiving. When properly weathered it blends in quite nicely. I would also say that floating track and code 250 or 215 is asking for a nightmare. If you really feel you want to use the smaller track it will need to be secured to a base. Of those that I know that have tried code 250 I’d say half swear by it and the other half swear at it.

#15

Welcome to the group and I’ll throw in my two cents. I want with LGB brass and am really happy with free floating track, That said, I would go deeper than two inches. We have sand and I went with gravel four inches deep. I really like brass and it weathers well. Also, no matter what depth you go with on your gravel bu sure to wet it down and tamp it.
Have fun laying track!

#16

Bruce, you have a #8 down already? Can we get some pictures of it? How smooth is the diverging route at speed? I need a couple #8s,and am considering buying them from this guy…

#17

It’s too dark for pictures. Maybe tomorrow? :smiley:

Seems pretty smooth to me. I really like these swithes.

#18

Here’s a shot with a #8 in the foreground and a #6 just behind it.

Looking towards the yard; the main curves off to the left. The route to the right is my interchange track which also serves as the cutoff when I run loopy.

And this is AFTER we cleaned up acorns…

#19

I had a similar problem as Bruce, but mine was with pine needles. That is the reason i didn’t put the track down in its original spot after we decided not to move.

The track was floated in the ballast, and a constant maintenance nightmare. I’m replacing it with the ladder method.

#20

Thanks, Bruce. They look pretty nifty…