Steve Featherkile said:So? Besides.... that's my business! ;)
Yeah, but you enjoy it!
David Russell said:Thats because Im more of a man. I keep telling ya, you have to stay away from those diesels. Steam guys take care of each other. lol
It's nice too see Bruce taking care of his adopted son! My adopted dad just beats me! ;)
Hopefully this will be my last question but What width strips are you using. Is it the 1 inch wide and 1/2 inch wide strips? Also what is the best Allow number for soldering?
Shawn, Don’t worry about asking too many questions. I don’t think there’s a quota limit. 
Here’s a list of materials that I use: 1/16” x ¼” brass bar stock for sides, base support and throw 1/16” x ½” brass bar stock for base 7/32” OD tubing 1/32” x 1/8” brass for handle frame .116” brass rod for handle and main stand. I have also used 3/32" rod for this, but the .116 stuff holds up better. nut (or several washers) that fits over the brass rod for the main stand. brass pin for hinge - I used an eye pin from MicroMark, but you could also use 1 mm brass rod. thin brass sheet for flag - or the engraving tags from McMaster-Carr 1 penny for top The penny is not very strong. If I could find a smaller brass circle, I’d probably use that; but a penny DOES work. Be careful cutting the slots. I have no idea what the best Allow number even means. The stuff I bought is mostly from K&S, I think. There’s no magic to these sizes; in a lot of cases it was just what I had in stock. For cutting the brass, it’s hard to beat the Harbor Freight mini cut off saw:
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/42300-42399/42307.gif)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307 I use some cut-off wheels from MicroMark (http://www.micromark.com/CUT-OFF-WHEELS-2-DIA-10mm-HOLE;-PKG-OF-3,6669.html) in the Harbor Freight Saw. Sizes: Rod – two pieces: • 1” for handle • 4 ¼” for main rod 1/16” x ¼” brass • (2) 1 1/16” for sides • (2) 1 ½” for base supports • (1) ½” for throw bar at the base of the rod 1/16” x ½” brass • 1 ¼” base 1/32” x 1/8” brass • ¾” handle frame - I usually solder this first and then trim it to length. Tubing – 1” For soldering, I use the micro torch that I got from Micro Mark
(http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/82559_R.jpg)
http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-TORCH,8096.html Amazon also has something similar: http://www.amazon.com/Bernz-o-matic-019133ST2200T-Micro-Flame-Butane/dp/B000PS9TQI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1268317345&sr=8-3
Thanks again
Yes Bruce thanks a bunch. You’ve laid it out pretty clear.
I ordered the rest of the materials today, hope to get started by next week.
OMG…Bruce he is entirely too young for those tools suggested. He is just learning shrinky dinks after stepping up from the Betty Crocker easy bake oven.
David Russell said:Come on now dont foget I carry a gun (Although I think it shoots water LOL)
OMG.....Bruce he is entirely too young for those tools suggested. He is just learning shrinky dinks after stepping up from the Betty Crocker easy bake oven. ;)
I carry several guns at work also…but there attached to an air hose.
David Russell said:I thought Roosters dont like air blowing in them kinds of like dogs. My rooster always runs away. :D
I carry several guns at work also...but there attached to an air hose.
Well I finally started building the switch stand. I was very suprised how easy it isespecially since I never really soldered anything before. Now it just needs a little cleaning up and paint and it will be ready to be installed. One down and 4 to go. The only thing I did different was use a penny for the top since I did not have any thin sheets of brass.
Looks good.
That penny will file down smooth pretty easily.
Looks good, but don’t let the gummint know you are defacing coins :o
This is off topic but; Bruce, you refered to the Harbor Freight mini cut off saw.
Would that little baby have what it takes to cut the rails of stainless steel track?
If so, it sure would come in handy.
Jim,
No idea at all. It would probably need a different blade, but I’ve only cut soft metal with mine - brass and aluminum.
They make a sort of grnder cut off blade for the Microlux version…works good on AL…never tried stainless though…
I got the switch stand painted and installed. What a difference it makes in adding detail to the layout. I made two more stands but they did not go as smooth as the first one. The hardest part is soldering the 1 inch tube and sides to the base. I made the jig that helped but the solder was having a hard time running into the cracks to hold the tube and sides together. It took some time but I did eventually get it. (one did come a little crooked but it adds some character to the logging line). I have a few more to make so hopefully it will get easier. Bruce they are great looking stands, work very well and cheap to make, once you get the hang of it.
Yeah, that looks great Shawn.
Are you using a torch or a soldering gun? You might try a little flux on that to help the solder flow better.
Bruce Chandler said:
Yeah, that looks great Shawn.Are you using a torch or a soldering gun? You might try a little flux on that to help the solder flow better.
Bruce I was using the same torch you had in picture and the flux but it seemed to flow away rather then into what I wanted it to hold. The first one worked perfect but then it took a few tries. Whats best : hold torch away and directly over the solder or heat the metal first and let the metal melt the solder? I tried both ways and it did not make much difference. The solder also seemed to turn into a ball. (Its my first time playing with solder) I did eventually get it to work but took some time and swearing. LOL