Thanks Greg
Bill
I do think it’s the best suggestion so far, the only off the shelf item that will connect to the servo.
The clutch idea has a flaw, in that the servo position will be wrong if the clutch “slips”… whereas the servo saver has spring loaded force that tries to return to the original position.
Greg
Not everyone knows what a servo saver is
or how it works
I was trying to give a little insight to that with my post
Bill
Here is a Servo Saver…
Thanks guys for bringing this up again. I haven’t been able to find a Servo Saver that’s said to work with the Hitec HS-311. Maybe Hitec shafts are all the same, but I have no idea. The closest one I could find is this, but no mention of a part number.
It doesn’t look like it has a metallic spring included. Maybe there are different designs, or it just isn’t shown? Some that look like this all-plastic thing are in the $2-$3 range, while others (as Martin brought up, and probably Joe’s as well) seem to clearly have true springs within, and are sometimes in aluminum, and are in the $6-$10- and up range (at least as I’ve seen so far).
Though the cable kink might work, this would be more professional, and not subject to monkeying with needlenose pliers. A further advantage, and it’s a big one, is to be able to release the cable and bring the box into the shop. With a kink, you have to release the cable from both ends, and then pull it out through the box. And hopefully not step on it.
Still, it adds a relatively significant cost to each machine; so I need to understand the price vs quality issues in servo saver design. And, find something that fits the Hitec HS-311 servo, because that’s what Tam Valley recommended, and I have it, and it fits.
Thanks—
Cliff
[edit] I just sent inquiries to 4 different saver manufacturers for their rec on the HS311.
Thanks Bill,
Team Associated was one of the mfgrs I emailed, because I couldn’t find any mention of Hitec compatibility for the various savers on their web site. Nor does this listing have, that I can see. Do you have some other indication that the lxcylw will work?
Sorry to say NO, I don’t
It might fit and it might not fit
maybe a phone call to Tower Hobbies o r Team associated would be of help.
I posted the item so you would know for sure what you were looking for,but it seem
that you already know exactly what to get. The arms are much cheaper than the
other types. Twenty five years ago, my hitec and some of my Futaba arms were interchangeable
but that was, as they say,a long time ago.
Bill
OOPs
duplicate post
Bill, here is the post just to help out, try the link, it’s pretty detailed.
Martin Sant said:
Perhaps some variation on a ‘servo saver’ ?
http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=servo-saver
Regards, Greg
Thanks Greg
I had not seen that post or picture
I see that says HITEC on the listing too
But the price ?
Yeah, the price and I think the size is going to disappoint Cliff.
But, the track is indeed the foundation of your railroad, bad or poorly functioning trackwork can take ALL the fun out of it. I’ve visited a number of people who want to rip out all their switches from their frustration.
Greg
Another small update. I’ve been doing some what-if’s for the throwbar spring, but I’m afraid it’s proving too elusive for me to tackle in this effort. So though it’s an important feature perhaps, I’d like to re-focus myself on building the first-article switch machine, and go from there.
The design will be per the last posted pics, with the following caveat: replace the cable kink and crank-disk with a “servo saver,” as you guys have suggested here. Like I mentioned earlier, this strikes me as a more repeatable and professional feature to, literally, save the servo. I’ve been reading some testimonials (from the RC world), and am pretty convinced. Like you say Greg, “the track is indeed the foundation of your railroad.” Also. it would allow a much easier release of the box for repair/replacement. I’m still trying to pick one out, because the shaft diameters & spline details need to match the servo. Once I do (and feel free to help me choose), I’ll update the model and post a pic.
One other nagging thing is the electrical cable. Though glands are shown for that, it would be really nice to have something easily disconnectable – like the cable (now). Un-wiring a multi-conductor cable from the internal terminals wouldn’t be easy, and it would be just as tough to feed through the gland as a kinked drive cable. I have a wp connector that might do the job, but again, it adds cost.
[edit]
Strike that last. The various conductors aren’t going to the same place, so a nice and expensive multi-con w/p connector is wasted. Two wires are for incoming power (DC, DCC, AC). Other (optional) wires are for signal/indication out. Another two wires are for a local pushbutton in. And maybe a different power source input for indication. So… rather than an all-in-one connector (which would immediately split to different destinations), the gland is ok, with multi-con sprinkler wire going thru. BUT, outside the gland would be different connectors per the different destinations. For example, I like, and have used, the EC5 2-prong connectors and Dean’s plugs from http://viciousteknology.com/connectors1.html.
FWIW, here’s where my present hard costs breakdown is standing.
Basic machine, with a $5 servo saver and 4’ of drive cable: $60
For comparison: the ProDrives I use cost $50, and are a true bargain I think.
Note that $19 of that is just for the 3d printed mount. If cast from resin, maybe $10 would be taken off.
Basic machine upgraded for relay (for indication or frog or whatever): $68
This cost estimate doesn’t include the extra functionality that the ProDrive machine has in enabling a set of indication contacts via DCC. It’s hard to calculate a per-machine cost for that, because it would be a system-wide thing, shared by all the turnouts. But, call it $10/per.
We can compare all this to the LGB EPL:
Basic machine: $30
Decoder add-on: $60
Aux contacts add-on: $30
Total: $120
It would be hard for me to put down that kind of money, and leave the devices outside over the winter. My Prodrives though went through last year’s weather just fine, and have done for others over many years. And they have such great features.
Why try to improve on the ProDrive? Heavy-duty weather-sealing, heavy-duty indication contacts, better interface for local pushbuttons, more flexibility in control schemes, and the ability to remotely locate the drives. Also, because it’s a fun design project. Having said that, I appreciate Train-Li, and I consider the Tillmann’s and Dan Pierce friends. They’ve helped me hugely in the hobby, on a personal basis. And don’t get me started on their nickle-plated brass track, it’s OUTSTANDING for so many reasons. But, I want a backup plan, in case the ProDrive’s have issues in the long run.
===>Cliffy
If youre looking for weatherproof plugs, Ive used Deutsch connectors on various vehicle projects and they are truly weatherproof.
Bob, I’d never seen those.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321338969756
The ribbed seal looks truly designed for weatherproofing. I see they have a variety of pinouts.
Thanks for pointing that out Sir!
Cliff Jennings said:
We can compare all this to the LGB EPL:
Basic machine: $30
Decoder add-on: $60
Aux contacts add-on: $30
Total: $120
EPL 12010 $28 (OnlyTrains.com)
Zimo MX820E $30 (fits inside EPL drive) (Train-LiUSA)
EPL 12070 (DPDT) $30(OnlyTrains.com)
Total: $88
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
As far as reliability goes Boehler has/had a very good reputation with many garden railway modelers. KALEAS bought all the “minitool” production equipment and the W1 type switch motor (with relay) retails for €41.80 from the mfg http://tinyurl.com/musyy4w
They are considerably smaller and less obtrusive than the EPL and similar switch machines.
They have even been copied by Aristo (RIP). Greg E tested them and how they stack up you can read here. Scroll down to the comparison. http://tinyurl.com/kmoev52
Cliff Jennings said:
Bob, I’d never seen those.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321338969756
The ribbed seal looks truly designed for weatherproofing. I see they have a variety of pinouts.
Thanks for pointing that out Sir!
I ran across them a few years ago, in various wire counts. They work VERY well, and are inexpensive to boot!
This brand is heavily used in the automobile industry. They are robust, inexpensive and reliable. Here is a link to their web site http://www.deutsch.net/en/home.html. They can usually be obtained from Mouser, Digikey, even Amazon.
Thanks Bob (FL)! I like 'em.