Looking good, Jon. I have Cliff’s latest file currently printing, I’ve tried reorienting it to see if I can improve the print quality. Plus I’m still getting used to resin printing.
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Yes, they were wood. Full disclosure, there were iron plates, front and back of each beam, with the wood sandwiched between. But if it were me, I’d forget that I just said that and make em all wood.
Yep - I agree. I’m not trying to be true to any prototype. It will be hard enough explaining how a pneumatic loco works anyway.
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Basically it’s a steam engine running on compressed air. Like a close cousin to the fireless steam switchers, but using compressed air instead of a charge of steam from a large stationary boiler.
Regards, David Meashey
Now that I have it back home with dry paint, I notice that you did include the rivets on the plates. I think I’ll rust at least the front plate, then paint the beam like weathered wood.
@Dave_Meashey Yep - Maybe a simple explanation is all that’s needed. I like to over complicate things!
Two coats of Iron Paint have been slopped on. This stuff is usually very thick. For a job I thinned it down a lot to spray maybe 5 years ago. A lot of the water I added has disappeared leaving a nice thin paint consistency. Here are some shots of the first coat. Wet, then dry…
It looks pretty cool in just the iron paint, but I’ll move forward with the oxidizer tomorrow.
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Has the resin industry not come up with an oxidative resin yet?
Though I haven’t used mine, I have a filament with iron filings that will allegedly rust with time.
Well, apparently the Rust Activator I purchased in 2018 has gone bad. It basically does nothing. I used it a year ago and it was kind of slow to work, so I figure it’s done and ordered a new bottle that should get here Friday.
I was hoping to show off the rusty result 
I someone wants a print like the one Jon has (the earlier version, warts and all), let me know.
I bit. Today I ordered the “14k” (actually13.3-ish) hi-speed 10" screen Anycubic printer.
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OOOOooh boy! You’ll have fun with it.
Interested to hear your thoughts on the high resolution prints once you get it up and running, Cliff.
Here’s a small print I did at high speed, 8k resolution
And a close up.
And here’s a closeup of a high-resolution 12k print of a gaming die.
Wow, those have great detail, Bob. How do the speeds compare between the lower resolution 4k and high resolution 12k prints. Does it take them 3x longer to print or has the speed kept up with the resolution?
Thanks for sharing those photos, BTW.
I’m still learning resin printing, so I’m not a good judge of what is correct. That said, I can print Cliff’s locomotive at high speed 8k in about an hour, compared to the 12k which takes around 7 hours. But I haven’t done any fine tuning of any printing profiles except the 8k one, so I expect I can drop that time significantly.
12k resolution rivals injection molding, in my opinion.
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I agree on that assessment.
Well Bill your question got me thinking. My gut reaction was no they don’t have a resin for 3D printers that can be oxidized. But as I thought that I realized I had no justification for that assumption. So I googled. And yes they do have an iron impregnated resin for 3D printing. At $1000.00 dollars a liter I am not sure if it is cost effective (Okay I am being completely sarcastic in that statement as there is no way this good old boy will pay 1000 dollars for a bottle of resin). There may be other sources but the one and only one I even attempted to look at is made by Tethon 3D and is called Ferolite Iron Resin. It says that after sintering (not sure what that means) the project becomes 100% iron. Not sure really what any of that means and not sure what properties it would impart like can it be polished or oxidized to produce rust.
At this point I’m almost ready to say somebody print and send me one so I can make it run but that would be nucking futs!
Might end up getting pulled out of the mine by an ass!
Rooster;
Or maybe a mule? Which was sired by a “horse’s ass.”
Best, David Meashey