Large Scale Central

Stones Mosaic

General Discussion
#21

They can be cut in strips and curved for a turntable pit. There is a mesh on the back. I cut them with tile nippers.

#22

Nice to know they can be curved. While you were replying I was experimenting in CAD to see how much gap would be needed on the brigdge of a pit with octagonal walls…

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jrad/_forumfiles/OctPit2.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jrad/_forumfiles/OctPit1.jpg)

The measurements are irrelevant - just being used to get everything symmetrical. Might be doable. Would need to scale this for 45mm track then measure the gap.

#23

How abolut doing the math for say ummm a 40" TT and we’ll take it from there…heheheheheh

#24

Or go with 32 sides… :wink:

#25
Bart Salmons said:
How abolut doing the math for say ummm a 40" TT and we'll take it from there.....heheheheheh
Well if the weather stays crappy I might just do that :)
#26

Pretty nice, guys. Love the enginehouse.

#27

I have used these as well, they are excellent, mine are glued to a Hebel stone sub strata with an exterior tile cement. Regard bending them, they will obviously bend around the exterior really easy but they won’t bend around an internal radius such as turntable pit, the blocks are very close together and the mesh holds them together on the back, you could remove them from the mesh and bond them on individually. Wayne

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/budd/_forumfiles/chinesewall.jpg)

#28

I’m using them on my Grist Mill. I’ll post pictures once I have more to show.

#29
Jake Smith said:
I'm using them on my Grist Mill. I'll post pictures once I have more to show.
These tiles look insanely great for us. I'm really looking forward to seeing that Grist Mill of yours, Jake!
#30

I wanted to do a little maintenance on my engine house and seeing these gave me an idea to replace the Precision Products stone veneer that was on it. I cut off the bottom 3" and replaced that with some PVC board I had laying around, and extended it about a 1/4" below what used to be the bottom wall. Hopefully that will keep the moisture from getting behind it.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kenbrunt/_forumfiles/stones03.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kenbrunt/_forumfiles/stones05.jpg)

Here’s what the back of those mosaic stones looks like.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kenbrunt/_forumfiles/stones01.jpg)

It has a nylon(or plastic) mesh and a paper mesh. I used Loctite Power Grab for the adhesive. First time I’ve seen it in the store or used it so I’m not sure how it will hold up.

#31

I picked up a tile the other day to play around with…I’m thinking on building a roundhouse. What ideas do we have on sub walls, any thoughts about bonding to coroplast perhaps?

#32
Bart Salmons said:
I picked up a tile the other day to play around with......I'm thinking on building a roundhouse. What ideas do we have on sub walls, any thoughts about bonding to coroplast perhaps?
... or to cement board, or concrete pavers, perhaps... In those cases I'd use mortar and grout... Don't have a clue how to bond anything to Coroplast...
#33

Oh, Bart: You might want to consider casting your roundhouse foundation in concrete… modular fashion, perhaps.

#34
Bart Salmons said:
any thoughts about bonding to coroplast perhaps?
3M
#35
Ken Brunt said:
It has a nylon(or plastic) mesh and a paper mesh. I used Loctite Power Grab for the adhesive. First time I've seen it in the store or used it so I'm not sure how it will hold up.
Ken, that is some strong stuff. I used it to bond tiles on my kitchen counter, including the rounded edges. When I had to remove a couple one time I literally tore off the plywood underlayment it stuck so good. Since then I have used it on a lot of projects. I used it on my Grist Mill to bond the tiles to the Coroplast core. It hasnt been outside yet but I think they will stick fine.

Additionally, I used the glue on my roof to glue wood slats to a polycarbonate cover Ice and water underlayment. I did this so there were no holes in the roof to cause leaks. That was 4 years ago and there has been absolutely no problem.

#36

I was thinking about using some of that plexi glass to bond the block to and use it as walls along areas of the track that washes out.

#37

Shawn - that’s good. You’ve just solved a quite different problem for me. More later.

#38
Bart Salmons said:
I picked up a tile the other day to play around with......I'm thinking on building a roundhouse. What ideas do we have on sub walls, any thoughts about bonding to coroplast perhaps?
I had started using Goop, but when I ran out I tried the Power Grab stuff. It should work on coroplast, but you might want to double up on the thickness of the coroplast. PVC board (Trimplank) may even work since it's flexible and water proof and I've seen it at Lowes in 1/4" thickness. Not too sure how acrylic would work since it's smooth and shiny. I've tried that cement board outside, but it soaks up too much moisture and eventually crumbled. As does the plywood, which is why I replaced the bottom edge of the EH with the PVC board. This is all speculation at this point since this is all new, untried stuff. We'll find out in a year or so how all this stuff works out. Even the stones on the mosaic appear to be made from cement so I'm not all that sure if that'll survive the elements around here. A dremel with a fiber reinforced cutting blade did a good job of trimming the pieces.
#39
Ken Brunt said:
Bart Salmons said:
I picked up a tile the other day to play around with......I'm thinking on building a roundhouse. What ideas do we have on sub walls, any thoughts about bonding to coroplast perhaps?
I had started using Goop, but when I ran out I tried the Power Grab stuff. It should work on coroplast, but you might want to double up on the thickness of the coroplast. PVC board (Trimplank) may even work since it's flexible and water proof and I've seen it at Lowes in 1/4" thickness. Not too sure how acrylic would work since it's smooth and shiny. I've tried that cement board outside, but it soaks up too much moisture and eventually crumbled. As does the plywood, which is why I replaced the bottom edge of the EH with the PVC board. This is all speculation at this point since this is all new, untried stuff. We'll find out in a year or so how all this stuff works out. Even the stones on the mosaic appear to be made from cement so I'm not all that sure if that'll survive the elements around here. A dremel with a fiber reinforced cutting blade did a good job of trimming the pieces.
After painting the blocks I plan on putting some sort of sealer onto the blocks. Hopefully that will keep any moisture out and keep the blocks from crumbling etc....
#40

My plan as well Shawn, I was going to get a clear sealer for mine.

Something else I was thinking, cause I noticed that the blocks looked like Limestone pieces, which will absorb water. I thought of gluing a piece of styrene to the bottom edge of the blocks so there would be no absorbtion from the ground. Any thoughts?