Steve, yes, but stay rods through an engine house? Engines don’t leapfrog over waist high rods very well.
The stay rods were along the walls, and in the overhead, parallel to the rafters. Cows don’t jump too well, either. 
Yea, as I recall from my cow tipping youth, cows aren’t all that graceful.
Rainy day here today so I took the time to glue up the acrylic and contemplate what to do about window mullions. My original thought was to use an idea I first heard from Yogi Wallace; hardware cloth. Then I remembered I work in a sign shop with a vinyl cutter. I drew up a 5 over 4 industrial window in Visio then duplicated that 15 times with correct spacing for the building. This will be cut in black vinyl an applied as one strip before the glazing is installed. I printed a paper mock-up and placed it in the building to see how it looks. This will completely change this structure…
You could REALLY change the structure and do “Indian” Red instead of black ! More than acceptable color for the era and might might it “pop” even more.
I’ll think about that Roos. Maybe I’ll have my guy cut both black and red so I can choose. My only reservation about red is that the entire structure is unpainted and weathered dark with plenty of lichen as in the photo above. I think it might be hard to get anything other than a freshly painted look in red vinyl. If we have flat colors in stock I will go with that over gloss for the same reason. I thought (for about 5 minutes) of trying to stain the building a faded red and using white mullions (EBT colors) but it is too far gone for stain. If I tried brushing the lichen off it would start to crumble.
Yes Jon…I understand …however the red mullions will attract the eye towards the rustic engine house that might be missed otherwise. However if you plan on “macro pics” in the engine house then IMO black is probably the better choice.
Make sense ?
This post has been edited by ROOSTER: as white is not an acceptable color for the era however “ecru” mullions would be acceptable like the EBT . My opinion only and thank goodness this is an HTTPS site now.
The colored mullions(what ever color they may be other than black) will draw the eye towards the structure. IMO
OK, point registered. By “era” what era do you assume I am modeling? This might be an old building, possibly late 1800’s, but more likely early 1900’s, but its state on my RR is present day. I have no idea when EBT began painting their window trim white. The buildings date back to the 1850’s but color photos much before 1950 don’t exist and very few pictures color or otherwise exist of the shops prior to being re-opened as a tourist line in the 1960’s. Obviously this is not an EBT model but it’s basic form is not to far off from the shop buildings…
Jon
I Apologize as sometimes I “assume” which is a common problem with society and especially hobby forums.
All I was saying is that “I” …“ME” personally would go with another color besides black or white for the mullions. Remember you also have the sash that you can paint in another color as well.
BY NO means am I trying to be an expert or “eggspurt” as some call it …just enjoying the thread and trying to help with what I understand as “Another” part of this hobby.
Make sense ?
Steve Featherkile said:
The stay rods were along the walls, and in the overhead, parallel to the rafters. Cows don’t jump too well, either.
At Orbisonia they are diagonal from the top of one post to the bottom of the other.
For stabilization, the big difference of this model building to a 1:1 building, is that the 1:1 building is attached at the bottom to a foundation. So maybe some real low truss rods under the track between the ties or a floor with the track attached and holes in it to allow drainage. I think the stabilization needs to be in all directions.
Jon, I’m thinking a solid piece floor with big square holes in the bottom with lots of drainage and then the track going through permanently installed in the building. Just adding another thought to your project. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Ric Golding said:
Steve Featherkile said:
The stay rods were along the walls, and in the overhead, parallel to the rafters. Cows don’t jump too well, either.
At Orbisonia they are diagonal from the top of one post to the bottom of the other.
For stabilization, the big difference of this model building to a 1:1 building, is that the 1:1 building is attached at the bottom to a foundation. So maybe some real low truss rods under the track between the ties or a floor with the track attached and holes in it to allow drainage. I think the stabilization needs to be in all directions.
Jon, I’m thinking a solid piece floor with big square holes in the bottom with lots of drainage and then the track going through permanently installed in the building. Just adding another thought to your project. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Mechanically, yours is a sound idea. As nice looking as this building was when new, it is a pretty crappy design. There is no real frame, the siding connects the framing members so it could use something tying the bottom of the walls together. Alas, my conversion to 1:20 compatible put the walls on a raised foundation to get the door height I needed…
One could stabilize the 4 corners by drilling a hole and inserting a rod at all 4 corners to keep them stable…
Thanks Andy - I had a similar thought - I might give that a try.
Guess I’m an idiot !
Totally missed the original content and not realizing it was set on concrete. I hate to agree with dad but stabilize the corners. TapCon is your friend. Either I’m getting old which makes you guys really old or I drink too much beer or a combination of both!
I don’t read but I sure like pictures !
Still think red mullions though
This post has been edited by ROOSTER numerous times: Re-read it twice and then some but you can check out my link here on how it really should be done correctly
Sounds like a plan. 4 1/4" Tapcon screws; cut off the heads then install blocks in the 4 corners to fit over them. Considering the red if we have any in matte. May have him cut one windows worth in various colors for testing.
Man you guys are just giving me all kinds of bad ideas to make this project take even longer. Rooster’s suggestion of red mullions got me to look at that picture of the EBT shop posted above and below. Now I’ve gone and bought a can of red stain to test and am seriously thinking of removing the building long vent on the roof. It is non-functional and ready to self destruct (picture is 2 years old)…
If the red stain looks right (I’m going for the color of the EBT shops BEFORE the FEBT started their repair and paint campaign) I’ll go with withe mullions to get a similat looking structure to this…
EDIT to add EBT prototype photos I took in 2003 before much work had been done…
Man you guys are just giving me all kinds of bad ideas to make this project take even longer.
As members of LSC it is our job to harass you as much as possible with outlandish ideas which are both nye on impossible and way past anything we would do on our own builds. Then also to suggest helpful information from exhaustive prototype studies to aide in the building process. These are then thrown into a high speed blender and tossed randomly onto the thread in hopes that you will need to rethink the entire process.
It’s up to you to figure out which are which. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Right away everybody blames Rooster!
I think the red stain/paint is a great idea! You need to keep the long vent though as it adds flair and character. However if you go with red on the body THEN you will want the black mullions/sash (more appropriate would be a dark black green) and then your “ecru” on the trim. Remember historic buildings were usually a 3 color scheme (at minimum) “body”, “trim” , “sash”.
" Rooster " said:
Right away everybody blames Rooster!
That’s probably because 99.9% of the time, it is Rooster’s fault… Woodshed, NOW… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Andy Clarke said:
" Rooster " said:
Right away everybody blames Rooster!
That’s probably because 99.9% of the time, it is Rooster’s fault… Woodshed, NOW… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
NO
I will not go to the woodshed as there is still a 00.1% chance it is NOT my fault!