With Phil Jensen no longer in the Hartland parts business, I wondered what happened to Phil’s inventory and if anyone has found a business supplying Hartland (and Kalamazoo) parts? I am restoring a Kalamazoo Civil War (Union) 0-4-0 and need the drive wheel hub and spoke units. I have three versions of the 0-4-0 (one I purchased on eBay as a parts engine) and they all have cracked drive wheel hubs. All the new hub and spoke units on eBay are for smaller drivers.
Any thoughts about finding replacements or creative ways to make new ones (3D printing supplier?).
Thanks, David
GLX in Canada are 3D printing Aristocraft and some Bachmann parts. You could ask him about your hubs.
Alternatively, find some similar wheels. Hartland 4-4-0s have different wheels from Kalamazoo, which may be cracking from age. (I assume you meant the 4-4-0.)
Note that those 4-4-0s are models of standard gauge locos so the wheels have more spokes. A wheel from a narrow-gauge loco won’t look the same, imho.
David,
Can you upload pictures of what you are working on ?
A picture says 1,000 words to me and rather than speculate I personally would prefer to see pictures of your project.
This the one?
https://s3.amazonaws.com/community.trainz.com/MT-0586531/MT-0586531_50F0112_large.jpg
[https://image.invaluable.com/housePhotos/stout/94/719694/H2651-L282917958.JPG]
(https://image.invaluable.com/housePhotos/stout/94/719694/H2651-L282917958.JPG)
Hi Folks,
Thank you all very much for offering information to help in my quest for Kalamazoo and Hartland parts. I regret leaving you hanging with no response but, at age 84, it is sometimes necessary to have the internals patched or dispatched and, in my case last summer, an attempted repair went wrong so it was recovery and later, another, fortunately successful, repair completed. For the second operation the surgeons were assisted, you might find interesting, by da Vinci, a surgical robot. I was disappointed that I didn’t get to watch! I asked the nurses if they called him Lenny…
But on to why we are gathered here, the quest for parts and a question. Some new info, too:
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The big news is - I aroused Phil Jensen finally (he has ongoing computer – and phone - problems).
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He does still have some parts.
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Correct, PeterT, I should have said 4-4-0 and Phil is sending me two new complete 4-4-0 motor blocks, one with black wheels and one with red wheels; he included this note:
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“All I have left are Hartland Motor Blocks, wheels and axles. These will replace Kalamazoo Motor Blocks.
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Wheels just fit HLW Blocks and won’t interchange.”
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Contact:
Phil Jensen
8025 Dutch Hall Road
Omaha, NE 68122
402-571-1415 -
His email is: [email protected]
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Rooster – Pictures? Yes, lots, my engine is this Kalamazoo Yankee one:
Now that the parts are on the way, I need advice on 4-4-0 wheel removal for my RC conversion going on in this mess:
In a blinding flash of brilliance, as I was using a screwdriver for prying off a set, it occurred to me that “the prying of off” routine is the likely culprit for all the cracked hubs. The torque of the motor is impressive but not that violent, I don’t think the hubs would shrink (or the axles expand) enough to crack (unless you leave them outdoors all year), enthusiastic children don’t seem likely villains, ergo, the action of forcing the wheel back and forth as you are prying it off looks to be the problem.
The solution? Some type of gear puller small enough to fit in the narrow space between the block and the wheel. Has anyone done this or found some other non-violent way to pull those big 4-4-0 wheels straight off?
Comments, questions, suggestions welcomed. As shown below, I am a dedicated Kalamazoo, Delton, Hartland aficionado! Let’s discuss!!
You need a battery terminal puller. (I have one but haven’t used it for the 4-4-0 wheels.)
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/719f7GQV2VL.AC_SL1500.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Thsakzo-Battery-Terminal-Bearing-Remover/dp/B0CF1RD117/ref=asc_df_B0CF1RD117/
Thanks for the info and Phil’s email. In my Kalamazoo thread, I mentioned that I found the LGB motor fits, and I had some gears made.
https://largescalecentral.com/t/kalamazoo-4-4-0-3-a-tall-tale/83717
Funnily enough, I haven’t seen any cracked hubs, but maybe because I lever the wheels off with a flat screwdriver applied close to the hub?
I did have a bunch of loose rims on the Hartland 4-4-0! I had to super-glue them back together.
Thanks for the LGB motor info, particularly in light of Phil’s inventory note below!
Also, I found a faucet handle puller that also works:
However, I decided not to remove the wheels from the two new motor blocks for RC conversion since they run so well. Instead, I used a Dremel to cut off the track power pickup brushes and glued the brush holder tubes shut so the brush springs couldn’t push the remnants out and cause arcing. I have had trouble with my Deltang/Micron RC glitching if I left the brushes in contact, even with an RC/Track selector switch installed. In the several years since my first RC conversion, I have never wanted to run it on track power, anyhow.
Phil sent a note with my two motor block assemblies that those were his last two motors but he still has “some parts and some possible repairable motor blocks left but that’s all.”
Also, info in an earlier note responding to a question I asked:
“Hi, David:
The Hartland and Kalamazoo Drive Axles and Gears are the same. Hartland Wheels will not fit on a KZ Motor Block because of a longer hub on the back of the wheel. You can shorten the hub if you wish to make them fit but the KZ Brushes might not align with the HLW open spoke wheels.
Inspect the KZ Motor Blocks and early HLW Blocks. If the sides are smooth, they won’t accept HLW Spoked Wheels unless the hubs on the back of the wheels are shortened.
I hope this helps.
Phil”