Large Scale Central

Some questions from a returnee to the hobby

General Discussion
#1

I have a few questions, I hope they haven’t been hashed to death.

I have been gone from the hobby for over 10 years, kids and all that, but they have grown up, out of college and I have decided to return and get moving. Always liked GR and the smaller scale mags, and have subscribed.

What are escutcheon pins? I have always seen reference to them but have no idea what they are. Do I get them at HD or Lowes in the nail aisle? I know this one is basic but I want to scratch build most things.

If you are familiar with the John Wayne/Maureen O’Hara movie “The Quiet Man” is the engine in the beginning and near the end of the movie at the Castletown train station a Sterling, like the new Bachmann Emily? This one is just for curiosity sake.

I am building a Railbus off GR plans (#80 on the GR website). It calls for a Magic Carpet drive. NWSL isn’t carrying them but suggests them might be again. Suggestions on replacement trucks? I have no spare parts laying around to scavenge. Also, what do you use to cut long pieces of wood length wise? I can 't cut a line straight no matter what I do so I amm looking at a small hobby table saw to help with that. Or do you use a Jig saw?

Thanks for reading.

#2

Jeff Walls said:
What are escutcheon pins? I have always seen reference to them but have no idea what they are. Do I get them at HD or Lowes in the nail aisle? I know this one is basic but I want to scratch build most things.

Them little brass plated nails with rounded heads. For smaller rivets you use HO track nails or even sewing pins. Yes they should be in most hardware stores… unless they’ve gone over to the dark "only really good sellers’ side

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/P1180001.jpg)

Jeff Walls said:
If you are familiar with the John Wayne/Maureen O’Hara movie “The Quiet Man” is the engine in the beginning and near the end of the movie at the Castletown train station a Sterling, like the new Bachmann Emily? This one is just for curiosity sake.

I never really paid attention to it. Thank you for giving me a good reason to watch this great movie again.

Jeff Walls said:
I am building a Railbus off GR plans (#80 on the GR website). It calls for a Magic Carpet drive. NWSL isn’t carrying them but suggests them might be again. Suggestions on replacement trucks? I have no spare parts laying around to scavenge. Also, what do you use to cut long pieces of wood length wise? I can 't cut a line straight no matter what I do so I amm looking at a small hobby table saw to help with that. Or do you use a Jig saw?

Unless your hand is steadier than mine, you’ll probably need a table saw with a rip fence… and many times a pusher stick (safety first, last and always) If you just need a single shortish piece, a scroll saw and a sanding drum in the drill press can be made to work. Hope this helps. Oh, and welcome back!

#3

Thanks Mik!

#4

Jeff, welcome to LSC. You can probably get escutcheon pins at your local hardware store, but if you can’t, there’s always McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#escutcheon-pins/=l6xeue For cutting wood, I use the tilt-arbor saw from Micromark: http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hobby-use,7500.html

(http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/80463_R.jpg)

However, if I were going to build that Railbus, I’d probably consider using styrene. Styrene is VERY easy to cut straight as long as you have a straight edge and a sharp knife. Just score the plastic and snap it; you end up with a very clean break. You can get scribed styrene from Evergreen. However, if you don’t want to invest in a saw, you can always get a kit: http://www.nemodel.com/shop/agora.cgi?cart_id=4456078.31433*ll3vd8&p_id=2286&xm=on&ppinc=search2 Of course that doesn’t solve the motor drive problem. You MAY be able to get a drive from Hartland Locomotive Works (http://h-l-w.com/) since they do sell a railbus.

#5

Thanks Bruce.

I did see the NESL kit and was tempted… but I really want to TRY and build it. I am not that talented but I figured what the heck.

#6
Jeff Walls said:
I am not that talented but I figured what the heck.
That's how you learn. If I may make a suggestion, while you're scrounging up the parts for the railbus, build some smaller "throwaway" practice pieces. Pole sheds, speeder sheds, switchman shanties, outhouses, garages, etc.

They’ll help you to build or re-hone your skills, and you aren’t out very much if you really make a hash of it. And when they come out OK, post pictures. We like pictures.

#7

Jeff, wanting to try is a good start! That’s how I got started. :wink: I had purchased a drive (the Bachmann 65 ton diesel), but didn’t like the rest of the locomotive. So, I built my own boxcab.

(http://www.jbrr.com/assets/images/IMG_2002.JPG)

Some discussion on the build is here: http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=5857 You might want to do something similar. The problem is you need a drive unit. Aristo craft does have a motor block, but I have no idea what it looks like: https://www.aristocraft.com/MOTOR-BLOCK-RAILBUS-WA-FRAME_p_550.html - Motor Block For Reo Railbus w/A Frame and Side Frames ART29358 Edit: Probably looks something like this: :smiley:

(http://www.reindeerpass.com/images/products/detail/83101.jpg)

#8

I get my pins here:

http://www.woodworkingparts.com/

You can also get threaded inserts for your trucks there too. If you want to use them for that.
These guys have smaller pins than McCarr
#20’s are about .035 in dia. 1/4 long should be good for mounting most hardware.

#9

Jeff,

There are two great threads on another forum on cutting scale lumber on either a band saw or a table saw. Someone put the threads into a PDF, but I can’t locate it just now. The first link below is for the thread on cutting scale lumber on a band saw. The second link is for cutting on a table saw. I have followed his teachings and am currently working on some flat cars - and still have all my fingers :).

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/122767/afv/topic/Default.aspx#254617

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/119461/afv/topic/afpgj/3/Default.aspx#217350

Although the article is for a 10 or 12 inch saw (mine is a 10 inch), I am sure the techniques, tips and tricks he recommends will work equally well on a smaller saw.

Bob C.

#10

I find that if I want a straight cut using a hand saw on timber, I place the timber in the vise horizontally and line where you want to cut along the top of the vise jaws, cutting sideways (horizontal).
If you do not want jaw marks on your timber, then place angle iron on each side of vise jaw. Dead straight line every time & blade can only cut along the vise jaws. I also use a hacksaw as it has a very fine cut & blades last a reasonable time.

If using power tools then follow the previous posts. Always remember safety first - or you will find that you loose interest in your project real quick if your fingers or body parts begin to leak!

Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway

#11

Jeff, Be aware that those pins come ‘brass plated’ or real brass. I prefer the real stuff. I’ve been investigating drives like the NWSL magic carpet, and there is a UK firm making a similar one, called a Spoerer Drive

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/petert/_forumfiles/FM_12v.jpg)

#12

Welcome Jeff!
…:)…

#13

Thank you all for the welcome and the great tips. You make me feel at home!

#14

Welcome aboard!

Here’s a place that has some really small escutcheon pins, in brass and nickle. They also have some dollhouse hinges that can be useful for some modeling applications:

http://craft-inc.myshopify.com/collections/fasteners

#15

WOW!!! Great Link Ray! I needs me some of those itty bitty ones for making turnouts and the like

#16

Jeff: Cutting lengthwise is called ripping. I do most of my ripping for modelwork on a cheap - about $110 as I recall - portable table saw. I also have a set of Dado blades so I can make profile cuts, like Bboard and batten. Those articles Bob Cope sent you to are very good. Do remember safety first - the fellow who mentioned that is absolutely right. Take whatever time it takes before you start work to make sure you have all the safety issues covered first. I bought a lifetime supply of escutcheon pins once long ago in a craft shop where they sold supplies for the copper tooling hobby. They are the shabp-pointed tiny nails - perhaps as much as 1/4 " long - used to attach copperwork to a wooden base, and around here they are sometimes used for large scale rivets. I actually can’t remember using mine in the near forty years since I bought them. But I know exactly where they are! Finally, Jeff, welcome! Climb aboard; enjoy the ride!

#17

Welcome, Jeff.
Of course now we expect to see you at the ECLSTS if you only have to come from Lancaster, PA. It’s an opportunity to ask a lot of questions.
Lou

#18

Welcome aboard, Jeff.

And as you can see by going through the rest of the forum…we like pictures of what your doing…:wink:

#19

The small decorative and protective plate around a key-hole in wooden furniture, or on a door, or a small badge or coat of arms mounted on a gun-case or similar, is called an escutcheon [look up the derivation from heraldry].

The small brass pins, or nails, used to hold such escutcheon plates onto wood are called escutcheon pins. They are great for replicating rivet heads in our scales of GR, and a whole lot cheaper than those amazing new resin rivets from Archer Decals.

tac, ig, ken the GFT & The Plawnish Rover Boys

#20

Those “Pins” that are sold in the average hardware store are only brass plated…so watch out…If you cannot locate any other source, (I’m sure you can) Lee Valley Hardware…a Canadian Company, headquartered here in Ottawa, have BRASS escutcheon pins in quite a few sizes. Google them…they are great to deal with, and will do mailorder…anywhere.