Large Scale Central

Simulating Planished/Russia Iron

Modeling
#1

So in an effort to again stop hijacking Cliff’s wonderful build thread I figured I would show this here.

While the debate as to what “color” Russia Iron, or the American counterpart planished iron, is will probably be an argument that streams on forever. And this article that Dave M posted does a great job of explaining why the argument is not nor can be settled. In my search for an answer I used the information in his article to develop my plan of attack.

First off it’s not a color, but a process whereby steel is treated. The various steels used are themselves different, the way they are finished are different, and the light in which pictures of it are taken is different.

What I will argue is that the powder blue color model manufactures paints locomotive models is likely NOT a color that planished iron EVER is. I am no expert. I have not done an exhaustive in person examination the world over looking at russian/planished iron. But so far I have not seen in person or even in a restoration photo of a locomotive with a real planished jacket (not painted) that is powder blue.

My personal uneducated opinion is that the reason the manufactures landed on this color was a host of misinformation and the fact that planished iron can have blue hues to it(not unlike gun bluing or the blues you see in heat treated steel). Add to it the fact that Russia planished iron is usually highly polished and reflects the colors surrounding it, such as the sky, giving it various hues, one of which can be blue.

At any rate I set out to see what I could do to make my interpretation of what planished iron looks like based on pictures and actual locomotives I have seen will polished iron jackets.

Someday maybe I will make my dream locomotive. The Baldwin 2-6-0 Mogul made for the Coeur d’Alene Railway and Navigation Co. #4.

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Photo from Narrow Gauge Chaos website

The build sheet from Baldwin calls out a planished iron jacket. The photo bares this out as you can see it is not the same color as the smoke box and is much more reflective.

Joe Douglass
#2

So I had two ideas on how to accomplish a highly realistic representation of a product that is widely variable in real life and the photo I have is in black and white.

Option #1 was/is to use steel shim stock and blue it with gun bluing chemicals.

Option #2 was some sort of applied coating to plastic. So far this is the only option I have explored. What are the criteria I am after to make my vision of planished iron? First, it has to be a grey color not a blue color. Second, it needs to be highly reflective. Third, it needs to have some mottling and unevenness to it. Fourth, it would be nice if it reflects back the surrounding color, in other words looks different at different angles and lighting.

#3

Here is what I have come up with so far and I actually am really liking it.

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These pictures were taken at the same time. One with the flash, one without. And at different angles. I did this to show that I am at least coming close to capturing the different “color” effect. One thing I really do love is that in the right light it does have a blue hue, even though there is not a spec of anything blue in the formula.

So how did I do it? I first painted the entire boiler (smoke box and jacket) with my favorite go to flat black. . .chalkboard paint. In fact this is where I first got the idea to use chalkboard paint for my flat black. It is designed specifically to have tremendous “tooth” so it will scrape off the chalk as you drag it across the board. As such, it takes weathering chalk very well and holds it, and in this case it takes the second element in this formula, Pearl Ex Carbon Black Pigment. I use a long fiber, large bushy artists brush and dip it in the powder and dab it onto the dry chalkboard paint. A makeup brush that women (or men I have to be politically correct I guess) use to apply blush powders (I think that’s what its called) I think would work even better. I layer it on, blow it off, layer it on, blow it off. This builds it up and also varies it a bit. Once you get enough on there is will start to actually polish with your finger tip. Now I think two things are happening but can’t swear by it. First I think you are rubbing it into the paint but I also think you are applying oil from your skin. Whatever is really happening it seems to lay the powder down and polish it. It does start to make it even more shiny.

Once you have it where you want it, then you seal it with a high gloss clear paint. When that drys a very fine wax, like automotive wax is used to polish the paint and give it the best shine it can have. The pictures here are not at there best. Its been awhile since I have visited this project. Dirt and dust have settled in. A good polishing is in order with a little more wax,

But at any rate I think I have a decent start on it. Hope it helps others who maybe looking to step up their planished iron game.

#4

Another thought on Pearl Ex powder. It is made in many different colors. You can use it to color or tint paint to make your own metallic paints. It is a pigment, so it is very fine and airbrushes with ease. It can be used in a colorless clear paint and tint it fully with the poweder or it can be added to a color to enhance it and give it a metalic look.

Or used dry as I am doing it it, you could blend and mix it to give yourself whatever color metalic you desire. So if you like the powder blue look, use a blue powder instead of my Carbon Black. Want that reddish hue add a little red to the Carbon Black. The key is a good base paint with tooth. Self etching primers would probably work equally well as chalkboard paint as would the Rustoleum Camo paints. they all have tooth.

#5

Thanks for the how-to, Devon. I like the finish this process creates. I have a whole set of the Pearl Ex powders that I use in various epoxy castings I do. They are great at producing that shiny or pearl looking finishes in the epoxy. I’ve never thought to use them as “weathering” powders. I’ll have to give that a try.

1 Like
#6

Great ideas.

I tried something similar to get a graphite color on the smoke box of my live steamer. I used regular graphite powder and rubbed it into the factory paint, which was quite glossy. It looked great, but didn’t last. I think your suggestion of the chalkboard paint, or etching primer would help it grab. A flat clear over-spray may have helped, but the area gets very hot, so any paint must be high temperature capable.

#7

This brings up an interesting thought. Have you tried using Pearl Ex in 3D printing resins to give it a metallic polish-able finish. I would think it would still cure since the light does not need to penetrate deep into the resin only right at the FEP. And since it is not a liquid pigment it shouldn’t effect the resin qualities itself like alcohol ink or Alumilite pigments.

#8

You know, I’ve never considered that. I’ll certainly give it a try just to see what happens. I know people have used dyes to get desired colors so the pigments should work.

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#9

I have read a mixed bag or results with liquid pigments. Some people swear buy things like alcohol inks and other say it ruins the integrity of the resin. Some say to use the alumilite pigments then I have read that it disrupts the cure. I haven’t tried either.

But since the Pearl Ex is inert it shouldn’t do anything negative at all to the actual properties of the resin. My only concern would be that it won’t let the light penetrate for cure both in the machine or in post cure in a UV chamber. But I really can’t see this happening.