Large Scale Central

Share my insanity, new layout track plan

Track and Trestles
#1

Been talkin bout this over thare’ though I’d share my insanity.

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/vsmith/HOUSE-Outdoor%20Layout%201-27-07.pdf

I am considering this for my outdoor layout, its R1, & has 5% grades.

I should point out that some of my favorite RRs are the Uintah RR, the Gilpin Tramway, the Mt Tam RR, and the Darjeeling Himalayan RR. All renown for their insane trackage and grades. Sorry, but that’s what I really like and have always wanted to model.

Now rolling stock will be small lokies hauling smaller ore cars, I’ve been testing my stuff on a 7% grade and its been A-Ok so far.

Max. vertical distance should be about 20 inches total. Stepping stones will be placed throughout during construction and yes that is a fence behind. I should have easy access to most all of the layout.

The way I envisioned operation, Heckaweh is the mining center, Borracho the freight center. I want to keep the trains short and light. At Heckaweh the ore trains (Loco & 3 or 4 empty ore cars) would be assembled at Heckaweh, run up the mountain, and then switched onto the siding and leave the string there at the mine. If I had to pick up a string of loads while delivering empties, the “brakes” (an icepick jambed behind the cars) would be set, the engine uncoupled, then when the loco has picked up the “loaded” cars, they would couple on the empties on the end then drag then up and switch them onto the mine siding for loading. Then the train would either back down the hill to Heckaweh to drop off cars on one of the sidings, or continue over the mountain to drop off the car at the mills near Borracho. The ‘loaded’ cars dropped off at Heckaweh would the be moved either back over the mountain or thru the tunnel to the Borracho mills. Freight trains (larger loco & 2 or 3 freight cars)would be ‘assembled’ (actually or just set down like a staging siding) at Borracho and run up the mountain to make ‘flag stops’ (stop for a short time) at the various places on the route, occasionally to drop a supply car off at a mine using the switching ‘technic’ described above. the train would then run thru to Heckaweh, where if I chose the engine would transfer to the back of the train and would then pull it back over the mountain back to Borracho, or just thru tunnel 4 back to Borracho.

Tunnel #4 is the ‘cheat’ point. If I want to run a more prototypical point to point operation the thru point of the tunnel doesnt exist. But if I want to run continuously, tunnel 4 is my way to do so. Best of both worlds? I still have some more trackwork to do at the Borracho yard, namely a passing siding. I’ll figure it.

I also have some real issues with just what am I going to do under the track, I think I might want to consider either a wood or concrete substructure to give the track additional support although the rock ‘mountains’ might be more than sufficient support, well see.

Whadda ya think? or should I just call the guys with the butterrfly nets and white coats?

#2

Thats a nifty design. A bunch of sidings and a yard for some operations, and a loop continuous running.

#3

Looks fun. How bout a siding track at “Barracho” into the shed to store? Its cut off in the drawing, but it looks like you have a shed in the upper right.

#4

Thanks

The shed is for garden tools, not trains, and it’s off limits per SWMBO. Besides its very small (3’x5’)and not too pleasant inside. The garage will house all the rolling stock, and its next to the layout so its not too far to carry items. I intend to use the Borracho side as staging/interchange with the indoor branch/storage inside the garage. In time I might be able to convince SWMBO to let me connect the two.

#5

I think I mentioned elsewhere that I thought you should do it with the flavor of the Darjeeling RR. Design some cute blue locomotives…or whatever is your favorite color and go for it. I’ve also had the feeling…if I were as crazy as you…:smiley: that I would have plenty of elves, hobbits and other critters living about…a Darjeeling RR with a Lord of the Rings flavor…:confused:

Now, you go build the railroad…I’ll call the man with the butterfly net…:lol:

#6

Warren
I had an old Aristo 040 drive I was all set to rebuild into a Dajeerling inspired mining loco, but found the drive was too worn out to be any use, so now I’m back to square one trying to figure out which lokie to blow up to build it. Decisions…Hmmmmm.

#7

What a cool design! I love it! I’m looking forward to seeing it completed.

#8

Victor:

Looks like western mining to me! Great solution to the ‘I don’t have enough room’ refrain.

I think those mines are called ‘pocket’ mines.

I like your operating scenario. Lots of trains and variety with a purpose. Don’t forget passenger service to transport miners and their support staff. You do need a runaround at Borracho.

Maybe consider a tiny turntable (or two) like the Monon Turntable in this month’s Gazette. It was used for snowplows, but I can see a small locomotive on it. ;<) It’s only ~18’ long. One piece of ~12" (300mm) long sectional track would make a slightly longer one: ~22’ in 1:22.5. That would turn my LGB Porter and its tender.

Perhaps the current Dinah Might Mine could be a (very small) stamp mill or ore concentrator?? That could generate even more variety in operation & traffic.

Happy RRing,

Jerry Bowers

#9

Under tunnel number three, how is that going to work out?

Will that be another tunnel? It isn’t clearly marked.

Otherwise, it looks like a fun plan. Certainly enough industries to keep several people busy.

I agree about the run around at Barracho. That way you can get you loco out.

SteveF

#10

Victor ,
Please may I come and play ? Please ? Pretty please ? I’ll bring my bestest injin , promise .
By golly Victor , that looks like you are going to turn professional .

Mike

#11

Testing reveals a few (not so) surprises.

I built a “test rig” consisting of a full circle of R1 track that simply ends above where it begins, with an elevated straight track on the up side and a curve off at the bottom. Its based on a plywood deck,w/ 1x legs cut to size and layed on the concrete floor of the garage, its a perfect torture rack to test my stock.

While I can run all of my 4 wheeled and geared type locos over the kink created when level track turns to the grade, my rod engines will require some sort of transitional easement. I’ll have to try bend a straight or a curve to get about a 1/2" vertical transition on each one and see just how hard that is. My other option is to simply buy short sectional peices, LGB sells shorts where 4 short peices will make up a 12" straight or R1 curve. That way I just let the small amount of vertical flex at the joints create my transitional easement. More to come on this.

My Buddy L engine is going for sale if anyone’s interested. It was a crapper that always needed perfect dead level track or the drivers would get lifted off the track by the pilot and trailing wheels. By you should see it flail on the torture rack! It was OK enough for my original flat dogbone, but on this it will be worthless, it doesnt even like the R1 curves - so off it goes!

Tested the 4-4-0 and all it looks like it will need is a transitional easement of about 1/2 inch verticaly curved from level to grade to allow the pilot wheels to track. If I get the 4-4-0 to run trouble free then the Annie should also be OK, but I’ll double check. I figure the Annie will be the biggest rod loco to run on the layout. Otherwise so far what I’ve tested passes the worst kink test.

Next thing to “BIG” issue to consider, to keep everything “on the bubble” I’m going to need some sort of stringer support under the track to hold grade and level issues in check, now what to use is th $64 dollar question. I’m going to need a “stringer and post” system to support the track, I dont think concrete would be practical given the twist and grades of my line. I like the plywood underlayment on my torture rack, its cut to shape easily connected and the 1x legs under would be a great way to anchor the track into the ground, I was thinking of simply adding another 1x stringer under the plywood between the legs, coating the whole thing in wood preservative before installation. I dont know how many years of use I’d get out of it.

I’m too tight radiuswise to consider a ladder system, do you want to try bending even 3/4" wood to a 24"R ? Neither do I. Too bad the track systems like Mainline Enterprises all seam to have gone under, I might have considered that…

Try to post some pics of the torture rack.

#12
Steve Featherkile said:
Under tunnel number three, how is that going to work out?

Will that be another tunnel? It isn’t clearly marked.

Otherwise, it looks like a fun plan. Certainly enough industries to keep several people busy.

I agree about the run around at Barracho. That way you can get you loco out.

SteveF


Steve tunnel 3 will be under the track that will loop over itself at that point, the way the tunnel will be built is yet to be determined.

PS their is now a passing siding - and - a turntable at the Borracho station. Havent updated the plan online yet.

#13

Victor, what program did you use to draw your plan?

#14
Victor Smith said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Under tunnel number three, how is that going to work out?

Will that be another tunnel? It isn’t clearly marked.

Otherwise, it looks like a fun plan. Certainly enough industries to keep several people busy.

I agree about the run around at Barracho. That way you can get you loco out.

SteveF


Steve tunnel 3 will be under the track that will loop over itself at that point, the way the tunnel will be built is yet to be determined.

PS their is now a passing siding - and - a turntable at the Borracho station. Havent updated the plan online yet.


I saw that after I took a 4th look.

For the ladder system, you might consider what one of our club does, saw the 3/4 inch stock in half on a bandsaw (I think it is called resawing), to get something like 3/8 inch or smaller, bend the small stuff to the desired radius on a jig to hold it in place, build the ladder, then laminate a second 3/8 or smaller to the outside (and inside) of the curve.

This does several things.

(a.)  It is easier to get the smaller curves.

(b.)  It removes the tendency of the ladder system to relax its curves to something larger than intended.

(c.)  There must be a third thing, cause I made this line, but I can't think of it now.  Oh, yeah, I rmember.  You can overlap the laminates to smooth out the curves at the joints.  And it will be easy to make a transition curve to tangent.

Anyway, using 5/16 thick stock or so, and then laminating them will make it easier to get the R1 curve. Give it a try.

BTW, we gave up on the synthetic wood, it sagged too much. We now use either Western Red Cedar or Redwood, and give it a few coats of Thompson’s Water Seal, and then paint it black so it disappears in the ballast. Done right, it looks pretty good as a deck girder bridge, too.

SteveF

#15
Marc Bergmueller said:
Victor, what program did you use to draw your plan?
Drawn on Autocadd, then thru plot converted to PDF format.

Thanks Steve I’ll look into that.

#16
Victor Smith said:
My Buddy L engine is going for sale if anyone's interested. It was a crapper that always needed perfect dead level track or the drivers would get lifted off the track by the pilot and trailing wheels. By you should see it flail on the torture rack! It was OK enough for my original flat dogbone, but on this it will be worthless, it doesnt even like the R1 curves - so off it goes!
Does the sound still work in it? If so I might be interested.

If you like, you can email me at [email protected]

#17

Plan updated, more detail with grades shown.
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/vsmith/HOUSE-Outdoor%20Layout%2002-07-07.pdf

#18

You could add one more track off the turntable where you have those 2 buildings, another place to store/service a loco.

Regards, Greg

#19

The train makes the journey from Barracho to Heckaweh. Once there, how does it turn for the return trip?

#20

Steve, just run around on the passing siding and hook up to the end and back over the hill again… or I could just let it run thru the tunnel if I’m feeling lazy.

Most of my engines are tenderless so this kind of operation is much easier.