really really cool!
Shane Stewart said:
That’s something I’ll have to keep an eye on. Luckily I have no emotional attachment to my tools.
I put together a video of the progress to date.
just to bring it along(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Okay, stop watching YouTube and lets get to work. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Today we’ll get the basic cab completed. We’ll start with the roof and top of nose. Using 1/8" styrene we’ll need one 2 1/2 x 4 1/8" piece, two 15/16 x 3 11/16" pieces, one 2 1/2 x 2 3/8" piece and two 15/16 x 1 15/16" pieces.
Cut everything as shown below and sand the required angles.
Your center roof pieces should be exactly the same, other then length.
You’ll have two sets as shown below. (nose shown)
Lay them out with all the angles down, and tape them together. Set your 30 degree angles with your jig and glue them up like you did for your previous roof sections.
Sand them both on a flat surface until you have sharp points just like you did with the other roof sections.
Now we’ll make the front of the nose. We’ll need two 1/8" pieces cut 2 5/8 x 2 3/16". Cut the outside top corners off them as shown below. Sand the tops at 45 degrees and the middle at 20 degrees.
Glue the centers together. Because they are smaller pieces, I set the angle by hand. To make sure it was accurate, I drew a 40 degree angle on a piece of paper, and just made sure it matched before gluing.
Sand the back side of the nose on a flat surface like you did with the roof pieces, but NOT to a sharp point. Just sand until you have about 1/16" left as shown below.
Now take the fancy box we built earlier, and tape the sides to it. Keep the backs flush with the box to make sure that everything squares up.
Now tape on roof and top of the nose. You’ll have a slight overhang on the sides like you did with the previous roof sections. Tape the front of the nose on last. Line up the top which will leave a slight overhang on the bottom. Glue it good when you are happy with it.
If you have any gaps as shown below, Fill with some scrap styrene, and cut it off flush when it’s dry.
Now as you can see below, the nose will have a bit of overhang. Sand it down to match the bottoms of the side pieces.
Once everything is dry, take out the box, remove all of the tape, and glue anything that was missed.
Now for the back we’ll need a 1/16" piece of styrene cut 3 7/8 x 3 7/8". Place this square in the back of the cab, flush with the bottom. Mark the top and cut to fit.
Now cut out two 1/4 x 7/8" windows as shown below, and cut a piece out of the bottom so it will fill over your aluminum angles.
Glue the back of the cab into place keeping everything flush.
Window Template
We’re going to build a template to help lay out the front windows.
STEP 1
Take a .01" piece of styrene and cut it 4 3/8 x 1 7/8". Using the top half of the diagram below, measure and cut off the top corners, and the lower center area.
STEP 2
Mark out the windows as shown in the lower half of the diagram. Trace 1/8" circles in each corner of the windows. Mark the centers of the circle and drill 3/64" holes.
Note - On the side windows, do not draw the bottom line until you mark the 1/8" circles in the inner bottom corners. Draw the bottom line to connect the bottom inner circles, and the bottom of the outside edge lines. Now draw the outside bottom corner circle within the lines.
Your template should look like the one below with a 3/64" hole drilled in the center of each corner circle.
Note - The space between the side and middle window has no relation to the bend on the nose hood.
What are you planning in using for windows? I just ordered some 2" x 3" microscope slide glass to cut for my windows on my snow dozer. Never have used real glass before but it should be a good learning curve.
Craig,
I’ve been using .04" Polycarbonate clear sheet from ParmaPSE. It’s fairly hard, but I can trim the curved corners with a pair of scissors. I used it on my Dash9, and I’m happy with the results. I like the idea of real glass, but I’d probably end up with glass shards all over the place.
Shane
I’ll see how the glass ends up… From what I’ve read online its pretty easy to cut straight lines. Making curved corners might be more of a challenge.
Wait, you did a Dash 9 build too? Or was it detailing the Aristo Dash 9?
A little off topic for your progress so far, but what hare you planning in using for the MU hose glad hands?
I built a Canadian Safety cab for one of my Dash 9’s. It still needs the railing modified and anti-climbers.
I thought I might try the magnetic air hoses. I thought maybe I could mix the scales to make MU hoses. That’s something I’ll need on the Dash 9 as well. I need to buy some more Kadee couplers as well. I just purchased some brake wheels form Burl for my Dash 9’s. These projects are a lot of work. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
I’ve use 0 scale glad hands for the mu hoses in the past, but using them for all three doesn’t look right too my eye. Once I saw Burk had 1\32 glad hands, if figured I could use 1.29 for trainline, 1.32 for main res. And 0 1.48 for the A& I lines. I asked Burk if if was interested in producing some mu glad hands in brass and he was up for it if I could get him some measurements for drawings. I’m sure you know as well as I do that mu glad hands are slightly longer and narrower than the train line. I figured for working or connecting mu glad hands, you could set it up correctly so that the main res glad hand wouldn’t connect to the A & I lines. The train line would be harder to do…
I thought Old Iron Designs had different scales, but I just went to their site and I see nothing. Ozark Miniatures still shows 1/24 and 1/32.
Shane Stewart said:
I thought Old Iron Designs had different scales, but I just went to their site and I see nothing. Ozark Miniatures still shows 1/24 and 1/32.
Geoff Ringles 1:32 glad hands looked pretty darn good under the 1:29 (not precise scale) model I made for Charlie Zimmerman of Conrails OCS theater car.
Shane
Once again the modeling is “freaking fantastic” however the time you are taking too make a detailed build log and posting it is really a cut above the rest!
Just outstanding work !!!
Thanks Rooster.
Now for the window section, we’ll use 1/16" styrene. Cut two pieces 1 7/8 x 2 3/16". Make the cuts shown below. Sand the tops at 45 degrees, and the middles at 20 degrees.
Place the two pieces together with the angled sides down. Place your template on top, and trace all the holes you drilled.
Use these marks to drill guide holes.
Now drill again with a 1/8" bit. Draw lines between all the holes as shown in red and cut out your windows.
Mount on your cab, making sure you are square to the nose. Later on we’ll mount some trim at the bottom, so if there’s a bit of a gap, it will get covered. The outside edges were not angled, so you may have to sand them a bit to get a good fit.
Flip your cab over and add some 1/8 x 1/8 reinforcement as shown below.
Flip it right side up and we’re going to do some sanding.
RED - Clean these edges up if necessary, but keep them sharp.
BLUE - Sand just enough to curve. Match it up to the sanding you did on the middle roof.
GREEN - Sand to a nice curve around 1/16".
Hopefully when done it looks like below.
Note - The front window and nose dimensions of this cab work for all modern GM/EMD safety cabs. (GP38/GP40/SD40/SD50) The SD50f cab is an exact match except for number boards. The SD60f’s (5504-5563) have low number boards. The rest have high boards. Units 5500-5503 were delivered as SD50Af’s and were upgraded to SD60f’s, so they have high number boards. These dimensions will not work for GE’s. Older MLW’s have a different style of windows.
Wow Shane. This has been fun to follow along with you.
Thanks Eric.
I’ve been looking at a lot of the SD60M’s. The cab appears to match the CP SD40-2f. It would be nice to see the real window dimensions. It’s hard to match up photos, but the side windows look like they are not quite as deep, and don’t sit as close to the edge.
Just for the record, I adjusted some of my cab measurements to make it easier to work with. My nose hood is an exact match to the roof. The real nose hood is a 25/50/25% split. Mine is closer to a 22/56/22% split.
If you drop the back door, and add a full size side window, the length should be accurate for the SD60M. If you do plan on building one, and want measurements, I’ve got full size measurements of the SD75I side windows that you could convert to 1/29th.
