what drawings are you using for this build?
looks awesome!
Thanks John,
When I was a junior engineer working the branch lines, I spent many hours stuck in sidings. I was always armed with a tape measure and a camera, and took inspecting my locomotives very seriously. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Iām converting these full size measurements to 1/29. My measurements arenāt complete as I could only reach so far, but between what I have, and the detail photos I took, I think I can make fairly accurate guesses. Iām trying to complete drawings as I go, so I might share them at the end. There are days I do nothing but stare at whatās complete, trying to decide on the best way to tackle the next step.
Shane
Iāll try to get an update complete over the weekend.
Iāve been busy working on the taper and the front vents. With 1/8" spacing, Iām 6 fins short of the prototype, but I think Iām happy with the outcome.
Wow, that is coming along nicely.
Chris
Coming along very nicely. Iām looking forward to seeing your progress . Lotta work !
After doing mine I know you had fun with those. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
I havenāt followed this build. Wish I would have. I am not a big diesel guy so I passed over it. My loss. What an ambitious project and a great model. Looks great. I am following now.
Shane,
I really enjoy your meticulous building log - some of your solutions may help/inspire me on future projects.
Regards
Norman
I have nothing to say but I get in trouble for posting blanks just letting you know Iām following
Extra blank post ā¦nice work
Thanks for the feedback guys.
David, yes, lots of fun. I had to clean off all the blood before taking photos. Those wires love finger tips. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Iāve decided to use a USA trains SD70 horn. The original horns had 3 stubby chimes that all faced forward. These locomotives are nearing 30 years old, and they now sport a variety of horns, including this SD70 style.
The horn mounts on the conductorās side. (somebody in design didnāt like conductors. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)) Weāll need a 1/8" x 1/4" hole. I kept it 3/4" from the front of the middle section, and 1/8" below the bend on the roof.
I first drilled 3 1/8" holes and then cleaned it up with a sharp X-Acto blade.
Mounted horn.
Now weāre going to start on the cab. Weāll start with the cab floor which will sit between the cab walls. The sides of this piece will act as the back walls of the steps cut into the sides of the cab.
Weāll need some 1/8" styrene. Cut one piece 3 7/8 x 3 1/4" and two 1 1/8 x 3 1/4" pieces.
Glue the short pieces below the large piece, flush with the sides as shown below.
Now for the cab sides, I used 4 layers per side of .03" styrene cut 3 1/2 x 5". Youāll need 8 pieces total.
Weāll cut these as shown below. All eight pieces will have all the cuts except the red. The red cut will only appear on four pieces.
I started with the door cut. The door cut is 2 1/16 x 3/4". It is 3/16" from the back edge, and 3/16" from the top.
Now cut out a 1 13/16 x 7/8" window 7/16" in front of the door, and 1/4" from the top.
Now cut out over the nose 1 3/8" high by 1 5/8" long.
Now cut out two 9/16 x 1/4" step cuts. They are centered below the door. The spacing is 5/16" below the door, 5/16" between steps, and 1/8" over the bottom of the cab.
Now the red cut on 4 of your 8 pieces is 3/16 x 3 1/4". It is 1/4" below the top of the cab just like the window. It is 1/8" in front of the door, and 1/8" behind the window.
Sand all of your pieces to make sure the cuts are flat.
Now build your two opposing sides. Each side will be 2 layers without the red cut topped by two layers with the red cuts. Remember to mirror the sides. Line your layers up, tape, and glue.
Shane
How are you doing all this nice cutting?
Dremel, X-acto knife, very nice work !
Hey Sean,
Iām old school. Most cuts are with an X-acto knife and a metal straight edge. I did buy a Dremel about 6 years ago with big plans, but after melting a few pieces of styrene, I went back to what worked. Sometimes I drill holes and just clean it up with the X-acto. When Iām cutting up my big sheets, I just score it and snap pieces off. I buy my 1/16" and 1/8" in 4ā x 8ā sheets.
Shane
Shane Stewart said:
Hey Sean,
Iām old school. Most cuts are with an X-acto knife and a metal straight edge. I did buy a Dremel about 6 years ago with big plans, but after melting a few pieces of styrene, I went back to what worked. Sometimes I drill holes and just clean it up with the X-acto. When Iām cutting up my big sheets, I just score it and snap pieces off. I buy my 1/16" and 1/8" in 4ā x 8ā sheets.
Shane
AMEN!
Shane Stewart said:
Iām old school. Most cuts are with an X-acto knife and a metal straight edge.
Oh, this brings to a mind recent conversation over on papermodelers.com where a member discovered after a few decades of use their much loved metal straight edge no longer had a straight edge (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Yea. Years of running a blade along it will do that.
Thatās something Iāll have to keep an eye on. Luckily I have no emotional attachment to my tools.
I put together a video of the progress to date.