Large Scale Central

SD60f Build

Modeling
#61

Now spin it around and we’re going to mount the front of the winter hatch on the window end. Mark the roof up as shown below. As with previous steps, DO NOT include the 1/16" lip in the measurements.

Cut out the middle portion.

Now we’ll need two 1/8" x 1/4" x 1 1/16". Take a 1/8" x 1/8" chunk out of each end as shown below.

Mount them on each side of the hole as shown below.

Now you’ll need a 1/8" x 1/8" x 1 7/8" piece. mount it in between as shown below.

Now for the top you’ll need a piece 1/8" x 1 1/16" x 2 1/8". Sand the 3 sides shown at 45 degrees.

Mount the top as shown below. Next week we’ll start work on the tail end.

#62

Fantastic! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#63

Thanks Sean.

Here’s another teaser photo. I’ve started designing and constructing the cab. People aren’t going to like me when this gets shared. There are lots of cuts and angles.

#64

Okay Guys, a couple more steps on the middle section, and then we’ll start the tail.

We’re going to add 1/16" to the height of the winter hatch. Cut a 1" x 1 7/8" piece and sand the 1" sides and one 1 7/8" side at 45 degrees. Glue on top of winter hatch as shown below.

Now take some 1/16 x 1/16" styrene and complete the lip around the winter hatch to match the end of the section.

#65

This is a great build thread …(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#66

We’ll start with the tail roof. You’ll need a 1/8" piece cut 7 13/16 x 2 1/2".

On one end, mark the center line. Mark the corners 5/8" from center and the sides 5/16" from the ends. Cut off the corners.

Sand this end at 45 degrees. The angle will be the bottom side, so in the photo below, you are looking at the bottom.

Now flip it over, and mark a line 7 " from the uncut end. We’ll now divide the 7" section up to drill for roof fans. The roof fan holes are 1 3/4". They are spaced 3/8" apart, with a 1/2" gap on the ends of the 7" section. Mark the hole centers and drill small guide holes.

Now drill the fan holes. You’ll have to sand them until your fans fit snug, but not tight.

#67

Thanks Sean.

Now we’ll need two end corner pieces. Start with two 1/8 x 1 5/8 x 3 7/8". The outer corners have to be cut off. If you set the pieces together as shown below, mark 11/16" in from the center and 1/2" down from the tops.

Cut off the corners.

Now sand the tops at 45 degrees and the middles at 30 degrees.

#68

Now for the center end we’ll need two 1/16 x 3 7/8 x 1 1/4" pieces.

Now mark one for a door cut out. Keep 1/8" gap at the bottom. Your door will be 3/4" wide with a 1/2" gap on each side. Mark it 2 1/4" tall

Cut it out and glue it on top of the uncut piece.

Flip it over and sand the top edge to 45 degrees.

#69

Now take your three end pieces and lay them tightly together and tape. All the angled edges will be down.

Now using the 30 degree jig you made, set your corners and tape. Set it on your base to make sure that it sits properly on your frame. When happy, run a piece of tape around the entire thing and glue it up.

Once dry, sand on a flat surface just like you did with your middle section roof to get nice sharp edges.

Now hopefully you have a nice looking rear section.

#70

Now Take a piece of .02" styrene and cut a piece 1/16" high and 11/16" wide. trim the ends at 45 degrees as shown.

Mount this at the bottom of the door cut flush with the top. Using a razor saw, cut lines at each side of the door cut as shown by the red arrows. Just cut enough to make a defined groove similar to the cuts you made when making your side doors on the middle section.

Now we need a back door. Cut two pieces of .02" styrene ( one .04" if you have .04) 3/4" x 2 1/4". Glue them together and sand the edges so that it fits in your door cut with a noticeable gap around the edges. The edges of your door can be slightly rounded.

Now mount your door in the door cut, and drill a window guide hole 11/16" from the top of the door.

Now drill your 9/16" window.

#71

Now for the sides of the tail, we’ll need two 1/8" pieces cut 7" x 2 7/16". Cut out a 2 x 5/16" piece out of each side as shown below.

Now cut a 1/8" piece 3 7/8 x 7 5/8".

At the back end, cut a 1 5/16 x 5/8" piece out of each corner.

Lay this on top of the aluminum angles on your locomotive base plate. We’re going to attach the rear side panels to the piece.

Use the box you made for the center section to help square things up. Flush up the front edges. The black arrow shows that I placed a narrow piece under the box so that I could glue without worrying about the box getting glued in. The narrow piece is also temporary for this step so ensure it does not get glued.

Slide the box to the front and tape your tail in place. Glue it when you are happy with the placement. DO NOT glue anything to the locomotive base. As noted above, the tail will not make contact with the plate you cut.

#72

Once it is dry enough to handle, take it off of the locomotive base plate and we’re going to add some reinforcement. Cut two pieces of 1/8 x 1/8 styrene 5/8" long.

On the bottom side of the tail end, glue the above two pieces into the corners as shown by the green arrows below. Cut some 1/8" scrap 1 1/4" wide and glue it as shown by the red arrow to tie in the tail end. This piece does not have to square up. Just make sure it makes good contact with the tail for gluing.

Now cut two 1/8 x 1/8 pieces 1 11/16" long.

Flip your tail end over, and mount the above two pieces in the top side corners as shown by the green arrows below. Once again take some 1/8" scrap and tie in the tail as shown by the red arrow.

#73

Shane…I’m all over this thread …LOVE IT !!

FANTASTIC DOCUMENTATION !!!

#74

Thanks Rooster.

One last update for tonight. We’re going to make some roof joists. Cut two pieces of 1/8" styrene 4 1/8 x 2".

Now mark these up as shown below. The only difference in the two is the bottom corners. The front piece has 1/8" cuts at the bottom corners. The rear piece has 1/4" cuts at the bottom as it must fit between the 1/8 x 1/8" reinforcement we added in the rear corners.

Cut off the top and bottom corners, and the 1/8" off the center top.

Now flip them over so you have a clean side to draw on and draw lines 3/4" in from the sides, and 3/4" below the top 1/8" cut.

Cut out these center pieces.

Now mount the one with the 1/4" bottom cuts right at the rear (red arrow) of your tail section, with the cuts dropping between your corner reinforcement. It’s a fairly easy mount because it rests against your tail end section. The front will be a little trickier (green arrow). Mount this on top of the sides with the 1/8" cuts dropping down in between the sides. Flush it with the ends of the walls and glue it in.

#75

Okay, we need to get the roof mounted.

We’ll need two .125 x .438 x 6 3/4" pieces. Sand one side of each piece at 30 degrees as shown below.

Using some 1/8" styrene, cut two 7/16 x 15/16" right angle triangles. You can sand the 7/16" edges at 30 degrees. The hypotenuse (long) edge angle will need to be about 45 degrees. I cut the angle of this edge by hand until I got the fit I desired.

I mounted the roof piece first. It may overhand the front a little. If it does, sand it flush. (Ignore the fans. I was just testing fit) I then mounted the two .125 x .438 x 6 3/4" pieces. They mount between the roof joists. Set the 30 degree angle with the roof. If they don’t quite match the angle of the roof joists that is okay. We will have to do a bit of sanding and filling later. Now mount the two corner triangles between the roof, tail, and end roof joist. Again don’t worry about flushing the roof joist. Make sure these pieces are flush with the roof and the tail.

Now cut a piece of .01" styrene 2 1/4 x 7 1/4".

Mount this on the roof flush with the front, and 1/8" in from each side. Make sure you flip it over and glue the edges of the fan hole cuts.

Once it’s dry, cut out the fan holes. Glue the edges of the holes again once you’ve cut them out.

#76

Now We need to build the tail section of the winter hatch.

Take one of your roof fans and cut off the electrical conduits. We are going to mount this fan sideways to make sure it clears the winter hatch. The hatch will hide this when complete.

Now take some 1/8 x 1/4" styrene and cut one 1 7/8" piece and two 2 7/16" pieces. Glue these together as shown below. The narrow 1/8" side is up.

Now I’ve decided I don’t want this hatch permanently attached as it will make painting difficult, and would also make it impossible to get at the fan. We’re going to get a little fancy, and pin this to the roof so that it will be removable. We’ll pin using 3/64" brass rod. Using a 3/64" bit, drill the corners, and from the corners, drill at 1" and 2" from the corners. The open end is the front.

On the .01" roof plate, draw a line 1/16" in from each side.Place this frame on your roof. The frame will sit between these lines. Line it up, flush with the front, and mark and drill the holes through the roof.

Once the holes are drilled in the roof, Take a 1/16" bit and widen the tops of the holes. This will help guide the pins into place when you mount the winter hatch on the roof.

Cut six 1/2" pieces of 3/64" brass rod and insert your pins. Make sure you flush them with the top of the frame. I scarred the top 1/4" with a knife so that they would anchor to the frame. Make sure the portion going through the roof is smooth. Carefully remove the frame from the roof. If the pins moved at all, flush them back up. Apply some solvent and the pins should remain nicely attached to this frame.

While the frame is still attached to the roof, mark lines on the inside front edges of where the frame meets the roof. We are going to mount a small plate in the next step that will help the tail tie in to the middle section.

#77

Now we need a 1/8" piece of styrene 1 13/16 x 7/8". This piece will sit at the front end of the roof. It sits between the winter hatch frame, and snug against the fan. It’s a good idea to place the fan and frame in place to verify the placement. It will overhang the roof by 1/2", leaving 3/8" on the roof. Glue to the roof when you are happy with the placement. Make sure that it fits between the winter hatch frame without applying any pressure as this could effect your pin alignment.

Now we’re going to build up the winter hatch. We’ll need some 1/8 x 1/8" styrene. Cut two 2 1/16" pieces and one 1 7/8" piece. You will also need to cut some 1/8" styrene 3/8 x 2 1/8". Mount these pieces as shown below. The larger piece is the front of that hatch.

Now we’ll need a 1/16" piece of styrene cut 2 1/8 x 2 7/16". Mark a line 7/16" from the front, and 1/4" in from the other three sides. Cut out the center piece.

Mount this on top of your hatch. Once everything is dry, sand the back and sides at 45 degrees. Sand through the top two layers down to where they meet the 1/4" frame you built in the previous post. You want to be left with a 1/16" band at the top rear and sides that is not angled.

Now if you pin this to the roof, it should look like below.

#78

Now we’ll need two 1/8 x 1 x 2" pieces of styrene. We need to notch them both as shown below with a 1/2 x 1/8" notch 3/4" from the bottoms.

Mount one of these on each side of the front to the backs of the walls. They will fit below the roof joist, and the notch will fit around the plate holding the walls together.

The green arrows below show how they fit around the plate. The middle section will slide over these eventually.

Now see the red arrow. We need to build a box out of 1/8" styrene. Make it 3/4" tall. The length should be around 1 1/2" long. Mount it flush to the front and centered as shown below. This will be a screw anchor point.

Now take same more 1/8" styrene and cut it 3/4" tall. The length can be similar to the above box. Build two boxes as shown below to fit between your frame and the aluminum angle. Sand a bit of a curve on the outer bottom edges as shown by the green arrows. This will help them slide in place. I filled the box with an extra piece for added strength.

Mount these boxes on the bottom of the tail body 1/2" in from the end of the plate (corner) as shown below. These are two more screw anchor points.

Now place your tail on your base, and drill three anchor holes as shown by the green arrows below. 3 screws will secure the tail to the base.

#79

Now we need to mark up both sides of the tail for doors. They will be mirrored.

Using .01" styrene, cut two sets of doors. You will need two 1 15/16 x 1 15/16" pieces, two 2 1/4 x 1 1/2" pieces, and two 2 1/4 x 3/4" pieces. Using the same technique you used for the middle section, cut door grooves as shown below. Remember the other side is mirrored, so the 11/16" door will be on the opposite end. They will be the front doors.

Mount them like you did on the middle section. The 1/8" gap you marked behind the single door (red arrow) is for a panel we’ll add later.

#80

Now if you mount your tail on the base, it should look like the photo below.

Your middle section will slide over the pieces shown by the red arrows. The green arrow piece will slide inside the middle section of the winter hatch.

They should fit together as shown below.

You may have to do a bit of sanding to get them to fit tightly against each other. When complete, this center section will slide off to give you access to the guts.