Large Scale Central

Rust-oleum primer

General Discussion
#1

So I’ve been busy spraying and sanding my snow dozer with a can of Rust-oleum primer for the past month. But the last two nights worth of priming have resulted in a very different finish on the model. Instead of a nice rough surface that sands smooth, the primer dries to a smooth semi-gloss, that when you sand it, just clogs the heck out of 220 grit sandpaper. The primer doesn’t act as if the can is empty, but I’m wondering if less primer is getting sprayed out and more propellant is coming out as the can empties.

Has anyone else had this problem?

#2

No real answer. Cold temperature? I usually run some hot water on the can before spraying.

#3

I’ve been spraying around the same time each evening, inside the garage, sometimes with the propane heater, some times not. The propane heater being on the opposite side of the garage. The outside temp hasn’t changed too much the last few nights?

I think I will hit Ace up tomorrow and get another can of paint and see what happens.

#4

Do you warm the can prior and keep shaking it between sprays?

Kinda sounds like you are spraying more solvent at first and then it thickens as you continue.

See if they can put the cans on their shaker.

John

#5

I have no luck with Rustolium. That’s why I use Krylon paints.

#6

Go find yourself a can of DupliColor Primer. It is much better than Rustoleum and Krylon.

#7

Anyone thought about automotive paint primer and paint as it must be UV protected for cars???

#8

I really like Rustoleum products and have used them on many projects.

You could be reaching the end of the can or perhaps the layers of paint you have done have not had time to cure before the next coat went on.

I can usually spray several times within one hour but after that I wait until the next day.

There is nothing worse than having done a nice job then that last shot of spray messes it up.

#9

Craig,

I have been using the Rustoleum products for years. Much better deal at Home Depot than Ace. Try putting the can in some hot water before spraying.

#10

I have been using Rust-O-Leum products for my 1/8th scale rolling stock and locomotives for over forty years and have noticed the paint “formula” has changed throughout the years. I’m using Rust-O-Leum red primer today to apply a base coat the 16 ga. sheet metal roof for a Baldwin electric. The paint is Rust-O-Leum Premium Grade red primer. Pricey (around eight bucks a can here in Southern California). Air temperate at the time of painting is a very important criteria. The new paints are not as forgiving as they were 10-20 years ago! AND don’t use old cans…buy new when the need arises to paint something. Not worth the frustration to save a few bucks and then ruin the model.

#11

Thanks for the ideas. I will try heating the can in water before spraying and see if that helps. This can is pretty new as I just bought it a few months ago when instated priming.
I have to get some more 220 grit sandpaper anyway, so getting another can of primer shouldn’t break the bank. I use Ace verses the big box store because its a 5 minute drive instead of a 30 minute drive down to Gig Harbor. The prices might be a little higher, but its a wash if I have to drive 30 minutes one way to save a few dollars. Plus, I get some “rewards” ($5 off normally) from Ace every time I spent $100… So its a win win for me both ways.

#12

Are ya’ll using rattle cans to spray your new rolling stock?

#13

Ron Hill said:

Are ya’ll using rattle cans to spray your new rolling stock?

I have been for years now and it works out fine. My latest project of custom painting a RS3 is really looking good.

I built a rattle can shaker/ holder using a gatorade bottle with the top cut off and a spray can top attached with a small bungy cord. I then duct taped a long old blade to my reciprocating saw. I put the can in, put the cap on and then connect it to the saw and shake away.

#14

Dan Pierce said:

Anyone thought about automotive paint primer and paint as it must be UV protected for cars???

Well usually I have decals to seal and leave the uv to the clear coat.

John

#15

I rattle can primer, but airbrush the final.

#16

Chris Kieffer said:

Go find yourself a can of DupliColor Primer. It is much better than Rustoleum and Krylon.

Yep pretty much …Napa Auto parts sells the stuff

Rustoleum takes days to dry and adhere correctly …have used it in other applications other than models with good results (like an old tin ceiling repaint in the house) no success with models and plastics though. Love the duplicolor line and Krylon is close behind. Valspar has a nice line but with mixed results IMO.

#17

" Rooster " said:

Chris Kieffer said:

Go find yourself a can of DupliColor Primer. It is much better than Rustoleum and Krylon.

Yep pretty much …Napa Auto parts sells the stuff

Rustoleum takes days to dry and adhere correctly …have used it in other applications other than models with good results (like an old tin ceiling repaint in the house) no success with models and plastics though. Love the duplicolor line and Krylon is close behind. Valspar has a nice line but with mixed results IMO.

TL;DR. The Rooster is just sniffing this stuff…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

#18

Dan Pierce said:

Anyone thought about automotive paint primer and paint as it must be UV protected for cars???

I used to use the Seymour paints from NAPA, they are really good paints. But they have gotten more expensive over the years, and I get good results from Krylon.

#19

Krylon was my go to paint for years, they had the right colors for our projects Ruddy brown, flat black etc. But a few years ago they started changing their formula, to become EPA compliant I assume. Since then I haven’t had much luck with their paints and now about all I can find in the Krylon lines are their “All In One” primer and paint. I tried it and was very disappointed in the results, in fact it is really terrible for model work “in my opinion”.

I mainly use Rust-oleum now, not as good as the old Krylon (in my opinion) but does an acceptable job and you can get the colors you need including the Camo stuff.

What I miss most about the old Krylon is the “re-coat anytime” as compared to most paints now that require a 24 to 48 hour delay if not done in the first hour.

Air brushable paints have gone the same direction (in my opinion)

But we are all safer now without those terrible chemicals.

Good luck

Rick

#20

Craig, how’s the weather outside by you? If it’s raining and/or cold outside(below 50), it can affect your paint, unless you’re painting in a temperature/humidity controlled paint booth.

Garages and basements are usually cold and drafty, and that concrete floor, will screw up the humidity in the room.