Large Scale Central

Rock Walls or Mountain Walls

General Discussion
#1

I have done many different techniques when making my mountains. I have done with great sucess concrete,(my favorite), I have used large syrafoam blocks, very good results, use only where you don’t bump with your feet.

My latest addition, I used large limestone rocks. Tractor placement large. 50-350 lbs,

After using the large rocks they just did not look the way I wanted them to look.

So I experimented around with the ole faithful cement and learned a really sucessful technique. I have done several feet with very satisfying results. I am not real good at taking working progress photos.

The first photo shows one section that has been finished and one is still untouched.

Other pictures will show either in process or finished.

?c=79b0

#2

The below picture is a section that has the cement placed but yet not textured, when talking to several people that has tried cement, they texture the cement when it is too green (not dried) , On a mild temperature day 50-60 I will place the cement one evening and texture it the next day around noon. I use a brick tuck tool and a welding chipping hammer, for the texturing.

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/3a/9f/01/19c9c_b79a.jpg)?c=a6bb

The picture below shows it after the texture.

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/f1/9e/01/19c54_01ba.jpg)?c=0a18

After painting

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/f3/9e/01/19c56_105a.jpg)?c=1ac5

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/0c/9f/01/19c6e_767d.jpg)?c=39ef

#3

You are seeing both cement and original stone

Dennis

#4

Nice work… :slight_smile:

#5

Looks good Dennis…But I want to see the model of what appears to be “your home” in the first pic you posted which looks awesome!

#6

Now that looks cool, But it must weigh a Ton…

#7

Thanks for the compliments

Nick there is 18 ton of limestone and 25 ton of dirt

David this is a pdf link on the structure you see in the back ground

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/MLS-Topic-Article/DennisRayon/NewMashvilleStation.pdf

#8

Great job!

  • from a geologist
#9

That came out great. If Ididnt see the before shot I would have thought it was all real rock. I have thought about doing the same on my layout but not sure how well it would hold in our extreme temps.

#10

Shawn, When placing the cement in the cracks or on the rocks and it cracks because of the weather changes, it will only provide more character with cracks, worst case if something chips off you may need to touch up with a dab of paint.

When placing cement, always keep in mind to prevent from making it look like placing mortar in between rocks. Always place the cement either in or out from the joint line.

So all joints has mud (cement) sticking out past the rock surface, or back behind the surface, this prevents the mortar look.

Let the cement almost dry and then texture it then, using a brick tuck tool works great, I like to use a chipping hammer when it gets pretty hard, making the cement chip off giving great results, looks very real. With the tuck tool, define all the lines, this really sets off the lines (joints)between rocks and cement.

Dennis

#11

For clarification, You’r carving the pattern into the mostly set (8-10 hr) green mortar mix? Is there any aggregate in the mix? You’r not doing much shaping work while its fresh wet.

#12

Very nice!

#13

Very nice!

#14

Dave in the second picture you can see how I placed the cement and let dry in that condition, then the pictures below that shows after textured with the tools mentioned above. If you notice on the second picture there is a ledge or overhang, that is created with one 1x4 horizontal held up by sitting on a couple 2x4’s, the motar mix straight out of the sack (cement, sand, ) . This creates a very nice outcropping rock when textured

#15

Come spring thaw I’v got at least 2 places that need that treatment…

#16

David Russell said:

Looks good Dennis…But I want to see the model of what appears to be “your home” in the first pic you posted which looks awesome!

Me too :wink:

Ralph

#17

I posted a link to a PDF from MLS site, you cant click on it to open, click on it and copy and paste in your address box of your browser, and it will take you to the builders link. Several pages and lots of pictures.

#18

Hi Dennis,

This looks like a good way to make or build retaining walls for an elivated layout. Do you think you could make walls 18" to 48" high this way??

Thanks Chuck

#19

Hi Dennis,

This looks like a good way to make or build retaining walls for an elivated layout. Do you think you could make walls 18" to 48" high this way??

Thanks Chuck

#20

Chuck as long as your rocks will support what is behind it, the motar technique will not weaken the wall, if you have dirt behind your rocks be sure and allow for your water to seep out. I will always leave some rocks with gaps in the bottom to allow for water to seep out. I allowed my dirt to settle 1.5 yrs before I cemented the rocks.

Neccessary to wait that long ? probably not, but it should settled in completely.

If you have proper drainage it will be no problem.

Dennis