Jon Radder said:
On one truck (I think it's the rear) the drive line free-wheels. There is a slip coupling that allows you to completely stop the drive line beyond the universal joint without stopping or binding the motor
OK, since people are paying attention here's a minor correction to the above statement...
The front truck powers the drive line all the way through the steam motor into the rear truck. On the rear truck the slip connection is at the drive line gears. When the rear truck is running you can stop the drive line without putting any load on the rear truck.
Last night was full on bench test operation of the trucks and steam motor complete with sound connection. I am getting a little bit of a glitch in the center cylinder chuff when running very slow. Not sure if it warrants tearing down the chuff switch assembly to try and fix.
I also noticed that the rear truck starts at a much lower voltage. The front truck is kind of hard to start. I thought that might be binding in the steam motor but is does the same with the truck by itself. I need to get some good quality lube and see if I can get it to start easier.
Today was tender modifications and paint. During my sound test I decided that my 3.5" speaker sounded much better but the magnet interfered with some un-needed interior parts of the tender shell. Out came the Dremel and problem solved.
I painted the tender with Krylon Ultra-Flat black. It’s not a perfect match, but I don’t think it’s too far off. I did comparison of the satin finish and that is way too shiny.
Pictures later after the lettering is on.